It could be the DIC (the camshaft position sensor is built into it). If the cps is still at fault you will notice that the tacho is not moving when you crank it, if the old o ring was not removed when the new one was fitted you will get problems with it.

At this stage I would replace the DIC before anything else.

 

Yeah, I read somewhere about that o ring. I took the cps out again last weekend and felt around in the hole that it fits into and didn't really feel anything but metal. I don't think it's in there still, but I'm not positive.
Is there any way to test the new cps with a voltmeter? I'll try the tacho test when I get home.
Also, is there only one DIC, or two on this car? All the pics I've seen of them, they never have 6 connectors hanging down. I figured there would need to be 1 per spark plug.

 

A quick static test is to test the resistance using your digital voltmeter. Switch it over to ohms and check. The resistance should read 860 +/- 90 ohms at 20 Deg C (68Deg F) measured across pins 1 and 2. That's the tolerance given, but I have known that CPS inside tolerance still be at fault and those outside of tolerance still be OK. Sorry it's not more definitive than that.

 

Thinking about the symtoms (starts and runs fine, till the engine is warmed up, then won't start again), does that sound more like a fuel problem to you, or a spark problem? Just would like a more likely place to start. Getting old sinking money into this car. The only two things I've ever seen replacement suggestions on to do with these symptoms is the CPS and the DIC, which has the camshaft position sensor built into it. Perhaps the next logical step would be to replace the plugs and the DIC both?

 

I just put a digital voltmeter on pins 1 and 2 and it's measuring a stable 819 ohms.

 

Question: I keep reading about a way to test the DIC by turning it upside down
and grounding it to the negative battery cable and cranking the engine to see if
all the plugs spark correctly. It says to ground the DIC with a wire. But how???
What do I connect the wire to on the DIC side?

 

It could be the DIC, they tend to show the fault when hot, do you get an mising when it is hot and underload/accelerating which is another sign?

There are a few things it could be

 

I never really noticed it missing when I was driving it, but I never really put my foot down hard on it either. I did notice one of the plugs on the front DIC had oil on it, even though the DIC boots seem fine and undamaged.

 

If you have the Bosch CPS, which is NOT part of the DIC and the O Ring is not left in than the 1st thing you should do is swap the battery with a known good one. The 9 5 weak batterys often look and test good when they are not. And a not hot start is one of the things it does. I have no idea why.

 

I bought the Beck/Arnley CPS shown here: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1357231,parttype,7196

I installed it a couple of months ago and thought that had fixed it, but it didn't. The battery and alternator are new also. I had to replace them about 4 months ago.

 

Just took the back DIC off and cleaned it up. Pulled the plugs so I can replace them and cylinder 1 has oil sitting in it. When I pulled that plug out the base and threads are covered in oil. What could be causing that?

 

So I just tested both DICs by turning them upside down, inserting a good
spark plug in one of the boot things, wrapping one end of a strong wire around
the threads of the spark plug and the other end around the negative post of the
battery and having my son crank the engine while I watched for spark. There was
a good strong pulsating spark as he cranked the engine on all 6 positions of the
2 DICs. Seems like the DIC is operating fine. At least from a producing
electrical current so the plugs spark well anyway. However, from what I've read,
the camshaft position sensor (not CPS) is built into these DICs. If that's the
case, I wonder if that part of the DIC could still be bad, or going bad, yet
still produce a strong spark during my test?

 

Switching back to the CPS. Just pulled it out again, and I'm not seeing a rubber gasket at all. Not in the hole, nor around the CPS itself. Unless it's the really small one right up against the base of it. Should there be another one? Seems like it's leaking a lot of oil in this area. Makes me think it's the CPS that's the cause of the leak.

 

Well I bought a Bosch brand CPS per a suggestion on another forum and installed in last Friday and I've driven it around for over 100 miles so far and it's working like a champ. Amazing that that other brand new CPS only lasted for a day.

 

Well crap. That lasted about 2 weeks. Now it's stranded at Walmart. Same
exact symptoms. This is ridiculous.