I pondered this a lot when I bought my 2010 TTID, which unfortunately didn't have the moified design. On the old design the flaps are not that secure on the hinge post so when they wear can come loose. (in some cases)
My guess is the issue is primarily the gunk that is in the manifold once the EGR gas and oil mist mix (also causes the crap build up in the EGR to manifold puipe). This crap can build up on the flap and cause local hot spot and early fatigue. The modified design secures the flap better to prevent detatchment. I think it is usually the flap closest to the EGR pipe that fails.

I had mine changed for an upgraded item (non original design) but the new OEM design would do the same thing. If you think of the number of cars out there the percentage of failures imust be quite low (if expensive when they do go), which may coincide with cars used for lotsof small journeys?

Preventative measures may include preventing the build up of crap in the manifold. One way is to blank the EGR, which I had done at the same time as DPF removal. No more EGR issues, more power, cleaner running, cleaner flaps (ooerr misus).

that's my take on it...

 

regarding doing the work involved to replace the manifold is quite labour intensive even for saab qualified technician or a qualified mechanic who know these cars typically 6-8hrs labour
it makes sense to do this job at the same time as the cambelt/waterpump

do you do it or not is the question bearing in mind the number of cars produced agaisnt the actual number failures is very few hence did not warrant a recall and manufacturers are alwasys improving designs hence the change in design on the later models and i wouldnt like to advise you either way then im not to blame lol, although what i will say my car has covered 112k with no issues and im a strong believer alot of problems diesel owners encounter are due to driving characteristics

what i have done for a friend and will be doing myself at my next cambelt change is removing the inlet washing it out and then remove the flaps completly so there will be no need to purchase a new inlet as any problem is gone. they do not sell blanks for the ttid although they do for the tid but again these tbh are an uneccesary purchase for either model, and have been removing this way on bmw for quite some time. having the flaps removed does not give any performance/economy issues and in some cases better

as markbar has done will limit further problems and over time the gunge will just dispearse but not overnight lol as the exhaust gases are not being mixed with the oil that enters through the intake from the turbo which is quite normal as long as not eccesive.
on this note i can confirm that within the past few days 2 cars that have had such work carried out have being taken else where for a mot namely to large national chains that like to scrutinise lol and have passed without any issues

just to say another preventitive measure i have done to my car mainly derived through an audi recall/or done at next service(similar design) is alter the flow of the egr pipe in the manifod so that it flows downstream rather than directly at the throttle body. this involves cutting the pipe and turning it 180deg. since doing so i have noticed the holes in the end of the pipe dont get blocked like they use to

hope this helps a little

 

Thanks for your thoughts guys. Indeed Kez, I remember the BMW's having the same issue. It was a concern at the time and I thought about removing the flaps but I decided to leave them. I had my 320D for 5 years and it had done 160k miles when I traded it in so perhaps it's nothing to be too concerned about on my 93. The thing is though my driving style was a bit different then because I was doing a lot more long runs in the Beemer due to where I lived at the time. The 93 does much shorter runs but I try and give it a good blast down the motorway at least fortnightly if not once a week.

As you quite rightly say, it's my decision but appreciate the thoughts from you both are very much appreciated!

 

Hi kev by the looks of it you realze the issues and due to less millage than before you drive it every 1 or 2 weeks accordingly which imo is the key lol

 

Yep, I hope it helps in the long run. There's no substitute for research, hindsight and experience!

 

tbh mate i dont do anywhere near the millage i use to and if i was to be honest prob cxovered 10k in the last 18months although its not missed a beat and never had any major issues, ok i suppose you can say i know what im doing with being in trade for so long but tbh regular service and common sense make it possible for anyone. its done 112k on same dpf, egr alternator etc i new the guy who had it before me so aware of what and when things were done. im never in a rush to be in 6th and tend to drive in whatever gear gives me just above 2k rpm whether im doing 30,40,50.......100mph lol you get the drift. other than servicing with quality parts ive replaced front top mounts drop links but tbf the suspension is getting a little tired and will be doing this summer time along with new discs..........so as a car goes i must say im extremely happy with it.

 

Excellent, thanks for that info Kez. Sounds like I've got many years and miles of joyful motoring ahead of me as long as I look after her. I do love the car a lot and if there's a problem or a developing one I do my best to find out as soon as possible what they cause might be. Right now I've got one on the front suspension that's been developing over the last couple of years and gradually getting worse. It's a bizarre one where I can go over a small bump and there's a knock felt through the steering wheel that seems to come from the drivers side. Yet I can go over a larger bump and not feel anything. I have to turn with full lock out of my drive in the morning and sometimes I can hear and feel what can only be described as a pop, like the wheel is popping out of it's position. I suspect it's maybe the ball joint beginning to wear. But anyway, I've went off topic and i'll get this problem checked out in the summer.

Thanks again for the useful info

 

often no need to remove the manifold, it's the control bar on the top that falls off because the plastic cups are worn, there is a company in Telford fits new cups for under £20 and it comes back by return post, bit of a fiddle to fit, but mine is now done and is brilliant. I did not have to remove the manifold...see ebay for the Telford outfit (highly recommended)

 

apart from the ttid manifold has them on the underside and are of a slightly different design

 

suspect he has the tid150

 

Is it possible to take a peak at how the flaps are doing without taking the manifold off? say by just removing the throttle body?

 

with a light/inspection camera

 

ordered one

 

Hi
I found a Pdf that might be of interest to you. It's like a TSB for the intake manifold/electric drive module, for the Z19DTH engine
http://mam.kspg.com/mc/common/epaper/html5/index.html?guid=14c084e2f585c52c&ePaperId=52672&customlogo=&passphrase=150294cf3878232c&page=0&language=en

Hope it's of some help.
Dave

 

Handy pdf if you have a Tdi 150 , but not sure if its TTDi