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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for a wiring diagram or good info on the 7-speaker system in my convertible (facelift dash). I've changed the front speakers for components (with crossovers) and put a sub in the factory position behind the seat, but am not getting full range or good balance across the speakers.

I need to understand how the amp in the boot interacts with the head unit (i.e. can I replace it completely?) and if the range is clipped to any or all of the standard 7 speakers.

Are the woofers in the doors acting independently of the fader control?

I'm also using a Parrot hands free, and need to know whether this can be affected by changes to how the speakers are wired/amped.

Thanks

Nick
 

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I'm looking for a wiring diagram or good info on the 7-speaker system in my convertible (facelift dash). I've changed the front speakers for components (with crossovers) and put a sub in the factory position behind the seat, but am not getting full range or good balance across the speakers.

I need to understand how the amp in the boot interacts with the head unit (i.e. can I replace it completely?) and if the range is clipped to any or all of the standard 7 speakers.

Are the woofers in the doors acting independently of the fader control?

I'm also using a Parrot hands free, and need to know whether this can be affected by changes to how the speakers are wired/amped.

Thanks

Nick[/b]
Hi,
Can't give you a wiring diagram or any definite answers, but I'll tell you what I know from the research I did before replacing my headunit with an aftermarket one. This info is correct for the 7 speaker system in my 2007 sportwagon, so should be pretty much similar for the convertible with 7 speakers.

The headunit has 4 channel output (front left, front right, rear left, rear right) which are all fed directly to the amp. see pin-out label below :


The amp has 7 outputs (front dash right , front dash left, front dash centre, front door left, front door right, rear left, rear right). The signal to the speakers appears to be filtered in similar style to the older 2003-2006 system. Bass goes to the front doors only, which contain 6.5" 2Ohm woofers.
The other 5 speakers are all 4Ohm and appear to recieve mids and highs with some lows, but not sub-level lows.
See pin-out label from amp below.


To achieve a good bass signal to a new amp for a sub, I think (I stress THINK as I haven't actually done this in a 2007+ car, but did in my old 2003 Aero) you have 2 options.
Option 1 : tap into the amp outputs that feed the door woofers, connect these to line-level converters to convert the speaker level signal to RCA level and feed this to the new amp to power the sub. I'm certain this option will work as that's how it worked in the old system.

Option 2 : tap into the speaker outputs from the headunit that go into the existing amp, I'm sure that these signals will be full range and that all filtering is done inside the Saab amp. This is the part that I stressed 'I THINK' about as I haven't tapped this side of the amp, and my assumptions are based on the fact that 4 channels feed into the amp and split into 7 filtered channels when leaving the amp. I think you should be able to tap into the 4 headunit outputs with line-level converters and feed to a new 4 channel amp to power in what ever configuration you like.

As I say, this is unproven theory as I started looking at options than found I couldn't get anything to enable Ipod control from the standard headunit, so ditched my research, and went for an aftermarket headunit giving me Ipod control, built in Satnav, etc and all the speaker options I could possibly want.

Hope this is of some help.

Steve.
 

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Steve,

Good info. Chouet is 2 weeks ahead of me, in terms of the install, but we are attempting the same thing.

I will first attempt to use the 2 rear inputs into the SAAB amp. If that doesn't work, I'll swap to the door (bass speaker) outputs. Reason is, I would expect a better signal from the un-amplified inputs (although I guess its not too critical for a SUB). I will be using an adjustable line-out convertor to tap into the existing feeds.

Also, do you think the "AMPS" pin on the SAAB amp will be the switched feed that I can use to switch a new amp?
 

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Steve,

Good info. Chouet is 2 weeks ahead of me, in terms of the install, but we are attempting the same thing.

I will first attempt to use the 2 rear inputs into the SAAB amp. If that doesn't work, I'll swap to the door (bass speaker) outputs. Reason is, I would expect a better signal from the un-amplified inputs (although I guess its not too critical for a SUB). I will be using an adjustable line-out convertor to tap into the existing feeds.

Also, do you think the "AMPS" pin on the SAAB amp will be the switched feed that I can use to switch a new amp?[/b]
It is possible that the "AMPS" pin on the Saab amp is the remote-turn-on feed, but that is just a guess.
It looks like pin 6 on the headunit is the output of the remote-turn-on signal, so you may be able to tap this, though that would mean having to run the wire from the front to the back of the car.

Good luck to both of you with your installs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are the 4-channels from the head unit at speaker level (i.e. to drive the basic 4-speaker system)?

If so, it would seem pretty essential to tap the feeds before the Saab amp in the boot, otherwise the signal is going to be amplified 3 times.

Does the Saab amp use low pass filters to put just the very low frequencies to the door speakers? If so, I suspect that my installer has filtered out the low frequencies to my new door speakers, leaving them with virtually no range at all - I'm probably only hearing the tweeters.

I think I may trade the monoblock amp for a 4-channel one to drive the sub and the front speakers, or add a second amplifier to retain the sub control I have (remote in the glovebox) with the monoblock.

From the pics above, it looks like the Parrot control box interacts with the head unit alone, so whatever I do with the amps shouldn't affect that element.
 

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Chouet,

I believe the 4 output from the headunit is for the basic 4 speaker system.

Your logic about applying a crossover to the door speakers also sounds correct- i.e. you currently have both a low pass filter and a high pass filter on the same signal- hence little or no sound from the doors.

I note from the EPC/WIS that if the car is fitted with the 10 speaker / 300W system, then in addition to the second amp, the original amp's part number is different. I assume that the bass bias is shifted around to feed the sub more and the door speakers less (if this makes sense!)

I was hoping that when I get the amp/sub installed, that I could just turn the bass down on the head unit to relieve the door speakers a bit and give a more balanced sound. I guess if this doesn't work, then the only option is to ditch the existing SAAB amp and do it properly!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Job done!

I spent several hours at Cambridge Audio yesterday, trying out different things (they didn't charge me for the extra labour as "they now know what to do next time" - good service)

The 4 channels arriving at the amp are at 4 volts (which should be great) but can't be tapped into using converters - it just doesn't work.

Driving a sub with a monoblock amp off the front door speaker channels is a bad idea too - you end up applying 2 low pass filters which gives an extremely harsh cut-off and there is way too much power to balance with the Saab amp.

The final no-no is driving component speakers off the front dash-top speaker channels as the frequencies are way too high.


The solution has been to convert the rear speaker channels (from the Saab amp) using RCA converters to feed a 4-channel amp (I've gone for a Genesis). Two channels are bridged for the sub while the other 2 drive the front component speakers.

The balance between the sub and the fronts is great and the transition between the two is superb (the Genesis amp produces lovely sound).

The downside is that I've lost fader control, as everything runs off the rear channels (which isn't causing a problem) and I've lost use of the Parrot car kit. Cambridge Audio have kindly looped speaker cable from the amp to the parrot and back to the crossovers, so I should be able to make up a wiring kit using a combination of the parrot original wiring and the Saab adapter kit.
 

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Just finished installing my amp and all is well!

As I'd already bought the monoblock amp (Alpine MRP-M352), I needed to get it to work. I used adjustable level line out convertors and tapped into the rear input of the exisitng amp. I used the AMPB pin on the existing amp to switch the monoblock- this works well and allows the sub to work independent of the key position- e.g when you don't insert the key but just switch the audio on. Power comes from the redundant electrical seat fuse (the fuse is rated at 40 amp, so I just tapped into it). I have earthed just under the rear light cluster.

I managed to get the amp to fit on top of the existing amp, but I had to move the park aid module and velcro it to underneath the rear lamp cluster. The only other issue was the RCA connectors sit slightly proud of the plastic hinged cover, so I have had to cut a small section of the cover away.

The position of the amp allows me to reach the gain, crossover and dB settings through the plastic cover which is good as I still need to do some final tweaking of the settings away from the neighbours!!

The sound is great- I have had to turn the bass down on the head unit and increase the midrange and treble which is what I was after. So the existing amp can just look after the mid/highs, whilst the new amp/sub can handle the bass.

I took some photos during the install. If anyone is planning on doing a similar job, PM me and I'll email them back to you.
 

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Hi,
Can't give you a wiring diagram or any definite answers, but I'll tell you what I know from the research I did before replacing my headunit with an aftermarket one. This info is correct for the 7 speaker system in my 2007 sportwagon, so should be pretty much similar for the convertible with 7 speakers.

The headunit has 4 channel output (front left, front right, rear left, rear right) which are all fed directly to the amp. see pin-out label below :


The amp has 7 outputs (front dash right , front dash left, front dash centre, front door left, front door right, rear left, rear right). The signal to the speakers appears to be filtered in similar style to the older 2003-2006 system. Bass goes to the front doors only, which contain 6.5" 2Ohm woofers.
The other 5 speakers are all 4Ohm and appear to recieve mids and highs with some lows, but not sub-level lows.
See pin-out label from amp below.


To achieve a good bass signal to a new amp for a sub, I think (I stress THINK as I haven't actually done this in a 2007+ car, but did in my old 2003 Aero) you have 2 options.
Option 1 : tap into the amp outputs that feed the door woofers, connect these to line-level converters to convert the speaker level signal to RCA level and feed this to the new amp to power the sub. I'm certain this option will work as that's how it worked in the old system.

Option 2 : tap into the speaker outputs from the headunit that go into the existing amp, I'm sure that these signals will be full range and that all filtering is done inside the Saab amp. This is the part that I stressed 'I THINK' about as I haven't tapped this side of the amp, and my assumptions are based on the fact that 4 channels feed into the amp and split into 7 filtered channels when leaving the amp. I think you should be able to tap into the 4 headunit outputs with line-level converters and feed to a new 4 channel amp to power in what ever configuration you like.

As I say, this is unproven theory as I started looking at options than found I couldn't get anything to enable Ipod control from the standard headunit, so ditched my research, and went for an aftermarket headunit giving me Ipod control, built in Satnav, etc and all the speaker options I could possibly want.

Hope this is of some help.

Steve.
What about wiring only 6x9s with an LOC, which wires would you tap from on more likely the amp under the drivers seat? Or the main amp as with the seven speak 93 set up there are two?
 
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