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My brother, annoyed that I kept my Carly decided he wants anther 900 turbo (he had a t16s)
As it is to be a project car, he wants it ~500 pounds.

He would also like to tune and modify.
The options are obviously
900 8v turbo, 16v and possibly a rough 16s
Which is a better starting point?
Is there a massive difference in the potential tuning options?
He lives in the NOtts area - would any of you tuned classic turbo owners be willing to meet him for a pint and chat?
 

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Prices for T16Ss are rising fast and I doubt your brother could pick up even a very rough one for £500

The 16 valve certainly has more tuning potential than an 8 valve if for no other reason than it's more advanced fuel system. Not that that stopped EvS of course

The 16 valve version starts out with quite a few more horses than the 8 valve and although you can do things to the 8 valve to catch up (like add an intercooler) you are always playing catch up.

OTOH the 8 valve is a great car - very solid and less likely to damage the gearbox and in the real world you're unlikely to notice the missing few horses much. I'd say it's more important to sort out the handling of either car first anyway before adding more power.

Leaving tuning potential aside, your brother is best off looking for the best one he can find in his price range and not worry about how many valves it has.

Don't forget to check out the Buyer's Guide either at the top of this page or, slightly updated, on Saabs.info
 

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If the whole project (not only initial purchase) is going to be low budget, you might do worse than going for a 2-door 900T8 like myself and FlyingScotsman had. The stiff shell and lightr weight (I think that all T16s had sunroofs, for instance which is a lot of weight where you want it least, and a fair share of T8s came with manual window lifters) make for a decent starting point in cooperation with the intercooled 155 bhp engine, and tuning is reasonably cheap provided you don't need to push it to obscene levels. The fuel injection is easily sorted out at 'normalish' tuning levels with the help of a 5th injector using a proprietary electronic controller.
 

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Yes I WHOLE HEARTEDLY agree with Eric and SteveN.But I strongly advise buying a nice 2 Door 8VT that has just has the Head gasket done

JUST an idea (check the classifieds)
 

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2 door T8 with no electrical toys to add weight is always going to be a good (and cheap) base. The stiffest shell also makes for better handling.

Our old ex-Tiff Needell Turbo Challenge car was just that, with a well sorted & blue printed engine - it hit about 175-180bhp in road trim and was reported to be nearer 200 in race trim (but ran like a pig at low revs and made about 17mpg...)

Because of the low weight and relatively short gearing (22mph/1000 rpm in top) this was a very quick car. Accelaration was amazing and it would hit the rev limiter in top. Alledgedly

However your T16 starts with 175, and if you put it on a diet...
 

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I think the body work is the most important thing. Get something with a good body. Even the 1990 I have is too rusty for my liking. (it's not too bad - just a few spots) Unless your in body-repair as a profession then the bodywork is the one thing you can't really DIY with. Rust is really unpleasant so just avoid this and let price dictate everything else.

You could buy my old 16v cylinder head (for example - not really trying to sell it) and stick it on to an 8v car or better still, stick on the 2.3 16v head. The main point is to avoid the rust as much as possible...!

There’s a free 60k 1989 to be collected from Aberdeen for anyone who wants it. Has a bit of a problem with the clutch. Full details over on UKSaabs: http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=500
 
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