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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to treat my new 9000 CSE to an oill change although it's not "due" for another 2k miles. ( 12k miles intervals sees a long time to me, are Saab being a bit optimistic?)
I read on the buyers guide linked to Bill J's site that some engines will leak if switched from semi-synthetic ( as per O/E "Saab Engine Oil")to fully synthetic. I don't want this to happen and am happy to use semi synth. if it's good enough for the engine. Any advice welcome.
(I used Mobil 1 in my last 9000, which did weep a bit but at 218k seemed reasonable)

Also ,
I'm condidering a strut brace , primarily to prevent body twist and gradual loosening of dashboard over time, I'm hoping it will makle the car less shoogly but any handling advantage would be a bonus.
Does any one have experience of these? Are they any good?

thanks,
Wul
 

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I use Mobil 1 0W-40 fully synthetic. I was never convinced on Semi syth and I always use engine flush when changing the oil - and I suggest this is especially done when chaging oil types. Although expensive (although you will get discounts) you wont go wrong with the Mobil.

The front strut brace has now reached legendary status and will allow the car to do 0-60 in less than 3 seconds and at least 180mph without a single rattle.... all for 140 notes. Although I've still to get mine Seriously, I believe it's excellent vfm.
 

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The front strut brace has now reached legendary status and will allow the car to do 0-60 in less than 3 seconds and at least 180mph without a single rattle....  [/b]
....on mine it does
seriously the strut brace has the biggest effect of all the suspension mods I have done..
there is now a wide choice from powder coated steel through to chrome plated
even with a fancy sticker on it !!
you pays your money....

well worth it !!
 

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I always use engine flush when changing the oil  [/b]
I know this is a personnal preference but if you use flushing oil at each oil change you are contaminating the new oil every time as you cannot get rid of all the flushing oil unless you strip the engine down. It will stay in the hydraulic tappets, the oil filter lines and in the camshaft area to name a few.
If you change the oil for synthetic and change filter and oil every 5000 miles you will not require to do any flushing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info so far people.
This site really is invaluable for aquiring knowlege. We must have several decades of Saab ownership/ experience on tap here; brilliant!

I reckon I'll go for a strut brace, seems too easy and cheap a mod to miss. May have more advantage on a CS too as they are supposed to flex more than CDs.

I'll take more advice on the oil but I've read that switching to fully synthetic, with its extra cleaning powers, can loosen all the years of built up crud internally and cause blockages or probs. I guess that would apply to flushing oil too if one was not sure that all the crud would, indeed be flushed out ? Hmmmmm......
 

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but I've read that switching to fully synthetic, with its extra cleaning powers, can loosen all the years of built up crud internally and cause blockages or probs.  [/b]
Always the problem and as you observe can happen with flushing oil
So you need to know the history
If It was mine I would do the flush thing
look at the oil coming out.. do the synthetic but change it after 3-4 k and if it was pretty clear I would be confident that the crud was moved on...

good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I also used to be a fan of Slick 50 gearbox & engine treatment, partly due to paranoia about Saab 900 gearboxes.
Any one got any opinions on Slick 50?
or is it just a waste of money if you're going to do regular oil changes anyway( which I am)
 

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Mine has had Mobil 1 6000 intervals with flush for most of it's life... at 194000 the internals showed negligible sign of wear.

As long as the oil is drained properly, the residual amounts of flush are very low and do not cause a problem.
 
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