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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I have read most of the issues........

Apart from hoses/pipes leaking and a major mechanical faults/problem(ie wastegate etc) with the actual turbo unit what else can put it to sleep?

My car is a 1993 Griffen 2.3T, has TCS and ABS. The ABS light is on(probable sensor fault..getting changed tomorrow.

Q: if the ABS light is on and TCS flashes when driving will this stop the Turbo from operating?

Air-con/electrics all working ok so I don't think it's gone into limp mode. Accelerator pedal also ok(not heavy)

Thanks, John
 

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Q: if the ABS light is on and TCS flashes when driving will this stop the Turbo from operating?[/b]
No, but I believe that TCS faults can cause the APC to hold back on the boost (called base boost I believe, about 1/2 into yellow on gauge). Mine had a dodgy TCS unit when I first test drove it and the boost was very erratic, sometimes the car was manic, at other times just plain slow. Once the TCS was fixed it boosted well into the red.
 

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Ah, well the TCS problem was while it was in the ownership of the garage, fortunately they fixed it before I bought the car! It needed a new throttle body, I know other people on the board have paid for this themselves, all I will say is that you won't get much change out of a grand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jason,

Yes - the ABS sensor(N/S front)is knackered and is also throwing out the TCS.

If the front sensor fix works and all checks out ok electronically(no ABS or TCS light), what chances the turbo will light up?

As I said a few days ago the car burst into life for about 10 seconds previously, then the Turbo went to sleep. I suspect the sensor has an unit/cable has a fault but I am unsure if this affects the turbo's operation if TCS/ABS lights come on.

Throttle system is of course semi fly-by-wire

Best regards, John
 

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It's possible that the ABS sensor fix may solve the problem. It's probably worth disconnecting the battery for a few hours to clear the ECU/APC settings once you've done this.

... here's where I get stuck.

Being a 1993MY I'm not sure if your cars a Trionic car or a DI/APC car. If it's Trionic you can perform an adaption run, there's a good description of how to perform this with an Auto on Bills site.

Although Bill's ISP seems to have problems at the moment, I copied the link from another thread. Hopefully it will be online ASAP!
 

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Hmm, every time we've changed ISP's at work I've had problems with DNS propgation. It's supposed to take 48 hours but rarely does, unfortunately so many people who are running DNS servers are real mickey mouse outfits. Which is quite scarey when you consider just how critical business internet access can be.
 

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If the problem is TCS related - believe the throttle body is about £700 new from a dealer, but far more scary is the ABS pump thing (looks like a plaggy bottle) for around £1400 from a dealer
These bits can be sourced cheaper, believe Ylee Coyote managed to get the ABS housing thing for almost half that price - second hand ones can be had, though it'll be hard getting hold of some without problems.

TCS/ABS problems are one of the big downfalls of the early 1990's 9000 turbo's. Have heard of a lot of cars with TCS problems going into "limp home mode" where all boost would be lost. My old 2.3 Carlsson often had the TCS/ABS light on, though luckily no "limp home" and boosted well into the red...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update...

Sensor replaced and ABS & TCS lights out(phew). All appears to be working well except that the engine check light is now on (never was before). It probably needs a 30min battery disconnect/reset.

Turbo still not responding although mechanically it seems ok/in good shape(everything spinning). It's probably something to do with the turbo control system(re APC, solenoid or wastegate value).

Slowly but surely getting there!

Thanks for the advice thus far.

Kind regards, John
 

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John,

In order to ascertain whether or not the turbo itself is functioning, or whether it's a control problem, you might like to try the following checks:

Disconnect the hose from the "W" port of the APC valve that leads to the actuator. Using a foot pump with an adaptor, or even as I do one of the automatic electric pumps that cut out, set to something like 6 psi, pressurise the hose line. You should be able to see the actuator rod move as you do this. If you do, then you know the actuator is probably OK.

Next, connect the actuator hose from the "w" port directly to the port on the compresor housing, and go for a test drive. Under acceleration, the boost should rise to a fixed level, without any peak, and then stay there even if you accelerate harder. If it does this, then you know the turbo and actuator are OK and the problem lies elsewhere...

That's probably enough to be going on with for now?

Mark
 

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Griffen, assuming it is Trionic engine management ('93 was the first year), if you switch on the ignition and don't start the engine, the check engine light should eventually start flashing at you. This signifies a fault code or codes.

The codes have been listed a few times on the board. I listed them in this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bubbles/Mark,

Good/valuable info. I will be trying to get the turbo to work today. So far I have only spent £50 getting to this point and if I can get the turbo working then all systems will be fully operational
without the huge costs sometimes associated with a permanent TCS/Trionic 2.3T Griffen

I have printed off everything I can on the Trionic system but will re-do the basics first(w/gate, fuses, solenoid w/gate valve, dump value, hoses etc) before touching anything else/electrical.

BTW - the 30 minute battery disconnect/re-connect, cleared fully the engine check light issue that appeared after the ABS sensor was changed. Worth noting for future reference
guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi,

Update,

Oiled turbine in Turbo and spun it around for a while(after buying hex socket and some WD40 from Halford(£3.99).

Re-coonect all hoses pipes etc....and bingo, Turbo now appears in good health(no noises or boost lapses at all).

Used car all day yesterday(about 200 miles with lot's of right foot) and left it overnight to cool down....again no problems this morning. Turbo is going into the red then falling back slightly as normal. The TCS is working a treat and helps to tame the brutal power delivery somewhat.

Griffen now back to full health all systems working 100%. I'll be putting Mobil 1 in her and and replacing the filter on Monday.

Total cost to fix ABS/TCS and a sleeping turbo(£60)

I have learned a great deal about the car over the last week or so. Therefore, if anyone wants some advice on these problems then mail me [email protected] if/when the same problems arise and I'll be happy to help.

Thanks to everyone for all the help/advice.

Hopefully she will go well for the next 10k without any major issues!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hi,

Update,

Oiled turbine in Turbo and spun it around for a while(after buying hex socket and some WD40 from Halford(£3.99).

Re-coonect all hoses pipes etc....and bingo, Turbo now appears in good health(no noises or boost lapses at all).

Used car all day yesterday(about 200 miles with lot's of right foot) and left it overnight to cool down....again no problems this morning. Turbo is going into the red then falling back slightly as normal. The TCS is working a treat and helps to tame the brutal power delivery somewhat.

Griffen now back to full health all systems working 100%. I'll be putting Mobil 1 in her and and replacing the filter on Monday.

Total cost to fix ABS/TCS and a sleeping turbo(£60)

I have learned a great deal about the car over the last week or so. Therefore, if anyone wants some advice on these problems then mail me [email protected] if/when the same problems arise and I'll be happy to help.

Thanks to everyone for all the help/advice.

Hopefully she will go well for the next 10k without any major issues!
 
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