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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I haven't removed the liner yet to check, but as far as I can tell my water pump is leaking around the pulley shaft.

From a quick search, this looks like a nasty job if you have A/C (I do), and may require dropping the downpipe. Is this right?

I am wondering how this relates to my rattle from the belt/chain area. It could be the source of the rattle - although I'd normally associate a knackered pump with a whine, not a rattle.

It occurs to me that the rattle could be from the tensioner/damper. I seem to remember people saying that problems with the damper can cause a vibration/harmonic in the belt, which can destroy bearings on the pulleys - with the water pump being the main culprit. Does this sound right?

The rattle did appear at around the same time as the coolant leak.

Is there any way to check the tensioner/damper once you have access to it? What about the other pulleys... just spin and check they are free and have no play?

Any comments or advice appreciated.
 

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I don't know about the rest, but the water pump is pretty easy to replace. The hardest part is getting to the bottom bolts on the AC compressor and the pump itself. I used a small ratchet and some extentions. Took about 5 hours, but I was cleaning everything.

Edit: I didn't have to drop the downpipe. Also Haynes actually does a pretty good job of describing the procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Foecom - reckon I'll have a go. I'm a glutton for punishment, and besides, I'm full of confidence after a successful transmission swap & clutch change.

I still need to know how to check the damper & tensioner mechanism though. Anyone?
 

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u must use new o rings and grease them be4 fitting a new pump or u be sriping it down due to a
pinched o ring and the air con bump un bolts from its brackit and sits on front panal then u un bolt the ac brackit. just take your time it aint to bad job and if its a 2.3 u need good bar to wind tensionor back 4 drive belt which u might as well replace as well as its off
 

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water pump isn't too difficult as long as you don't mind risking your fingers to the auto tensioner.

The ac pump bolts are easy to get to it you remove the headlamp (3 mins work).

the ater pump attaches to the block with a small transfer pipe with rubber o rings. change all of this too or leaks will continue.

Andrew
 

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I have a 2.3T and the hardest bit about changing the water pump was getting at the banjo bolt for the turbo coolant feed pipe. A suitably curved ring spanner might have worked but there is just no room to work any normal spanner, although a 3/8" drive socket with the right wobbly bit might just have managed it. I had to drop the down pipe, mind you that's not too hard. 3 nuts at the turbo and 1 bolt at the cat.
I had to do this twice because the bearing collapsed on the pump I'd replaced a few months earlier, at which time I'd also replaced the belt and pulleys but not the damper/tensioner.
I know better now

To check the tensioner, while the engine is idling does it vibrate up and down noticably? If it does it's knackered. It will also probably be leaking oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone for the great info... one other thing... I am sure I remember some discussion here about alternative vs. original damper/tensioner parts. Does anyone have any strong feeling about non-genuine bits for this job?
 
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