[Eric van Spelde]

Hi all,

I'm on the verge of ordering a ShurFLO 8000 series pump for my water injection system, but after perusing the websites of folks that have built water injection systems around them I'm still unsure about one thing - which fittings should I order from Aquamist in order to fit the water injection hose, and which would I need to find elsewhere? The way I see it, I would need two 4 mm hosetail (that's what the Aquamist nozzle I have, has) to 1/8"BSP adapters, then two 1/8" BSP to 1/2" BSP or whatever the ShurFLO uses, to connect the hoses from the washer bottle and to the injector nozzle. Am I correct in that assumption, and are the fittings on the ShurFLO pump indeed 1/2" BSP or something entirely different?

 

[ERP]

I found that the majority of the cost for the full Aquamist system was in the pump. So I purchased everything but the pump and picked up the extra adapter fittings that I needed at a local plumbing store. Here is the list of what I ordered from Aquamist:

Power relay 40A
Adjustable Pressure Switch
M8 Tap for the nozzle
0.7mm nozzle
2m of 4mm and 6mm hose
Filter
(3) 8mm to 1/8” quick connectors
(1) 6mm to 1/8” quick connector

From the plumbing store I used 7 different fittings to go from the Aquamist 1/8” to the ShurFLO 1/2“ and to create a 90 degree bend pictured below.

You will also need a solenoid valve otherwise water will drip out of the nozzle after the pump shuts off. I bought one from www.PowerAire.com for $27, model 32k5DGV-12VDC and the Aquamist fittings fit without any adapters.

Eric

 

[Eric van Spelde]

Ah, thanks...

In my case, it will just be a matter of inserting the new pump into the 4 mm water hose, as everything else is already in place (currently I use two washer pumps, one original Saab, one that's about twice as large and comes from a vehicle with headlight pressure washers).

Does the Aquamist System 1 come with a solenoid valve nowadays? In the schematic I have here there isn't any...

 

[ERP]

The Aquamist solenoid is in the pump for quick water shut off. Other pumps are not designed like this so an additional valve is required.

 

[alan_b]

Eric,

I'm going to go the same route as you with a Shurflo pump. Where are you getting yours from? It looks to me as if the US is far cheaper than the UK.

Alanb

 

[ERP]

I have the information on my website, Eric's Saab Site (Water Injection) I should be done with the install instructions soon.

 

[tandino]

Out of interest how much is this Shurflo system costing you guy's??,
The reason i ask is that i only paid £230 for my Aquamist 1s system.
It seems to be alot of hassle for a possible small saving

.

Pete.

 

[ERP]

In the US the cheapest I have seen the Aquamist 1S system was $400. I put my system together for $250.

 

[tandino]

You should have got on the recent group buy that Brad at George's Imports had

Pete.

 

[Skodapilot]

Silly question, but do you guys run a seperate water tank, or does it use coolant or washer fluid.

Stupid I know, but on Eric waterinjection site, there isn't any mention of a tank, just drilling and draining an existing one.

 

[mark e]

I've used the washer bottle for my 9000 Aquamist system, and simply teed off from the feed at the bottom. It's useful to do it this way as you get a built in indication of low fluid level.

HTH

 

[Eric van Spelde]

I used a second (stock) washer bottle in my 900, located in the left inner fender like the accessory water injection kit Saab sold for the 99T/early 900T.
That's mostly because it's convenient - I use two windscreen/headlamp washer pumps in series (one of them quite substantial, coming off a vehicle with pressure headlamp washers - judging from the size of the impeller it looks like it came off a truck!) and this way, I did not have any plumbing issues to deal with. The Escort Cossie had a similar set up fitted as standard equipment - the only thing missing on that car to make it functional being one wire and an ECU reprogram, for which Ford reputedly asked £400!
It works well enough - provided that you set the trip-in point just under max boost, so that the pumps don't run for longer periods. Eventually, the motors will burn out as they often did on the Cossie. Of course Ford did use the 'proper' (read: expensive) pump from ERL/Aquamist for their rally cars...

My current line of thinking is to keep this system - at least for now - and only add the solenoid valve for added security.

 

[Skodapilot]

Originally posted by Eric van Spelde:
[qb]I used a second (stock) washer bottle in my 900, located in the left inner fender like the accessory water injection kit Saab sold for the 99T/early 900T.
That's mostly because it's convenient - I use two windscreen/headlamp washer pumps in series (one of them quite substantial, coming off a vehicle with pressure headlamp washers - judging from the size of the impeller it looks like it came off a truck!) and this way, I did not have any plumbing issues to deal with. The Escort Cossie had a similar set up fitted as standard equipment - the only thing missing on that car to make it functional being one wire and an ECU reprogram, for which Ford reputedly asked £400!
It works well enough - provided that you set the trip-in point just under max boost, so that the pumps don't run for longer periods. Eventually, the motors will burn out as they often did on the Cossie. Of course Ford did use the 'proper' (read: expensive) pump from ERL/Aquamist for their rally cars...

My current line of thinking is to keep this system - at least for now - and only add the solenoid valve for added security. [/qb][/b]

Hmm, I like the sound of that, using a serious washer pump.

Does the TTE site have anything on it on the Saabine writeup, on how you trigger the injector?

 

[Eric van Spelde]

On the site there's still the old set up, with which I pressurized the washer bottle tank (should really be a metal one for that cause) and drove one stock washer bottle pump from the output of my PWM 5th injector driver, i.e. water flow should be proportional with 5th fuel injector flow. Of course, this didn't work anymore when I added the 'serious' washer pump that seems to draw something like 10A current (can't tell really - but the needle of my analogue electrical tester gauge that reads to 3A was pegged REAL hard as soon as I put the juice on it...) - the PWM driver simply cannot cope with that kind of power, so voltage dropped to negligible levels

Anyways, I'll have an update on the system on the site as soon as the work has been completed.

There's a DI conversion in the making, too

 

[Skodapilot]

I look forward to reading up on the improved water injection writeup.