[Peter Rawlinson]

Tried going through the searches, but can't seem to get my head round the various threads. Hope somebody may be able to help.

Was trying to see if wastegate actuator was actuating(putting hand down between cyl block & turbo & putting fingers on actuator rod and turning throotle cam) and noticed at the RH end of actuator rod that it was not connected to anything (rod is round but end is flat with approx 5mm hole at the end?) nor did it move when revved beyond 4krpm (by ear).

What is the likely result of this? The car, as mentioned several weeks ago, here, does not seem to have as much go as it used to have after 3-4krpm and at the time was wondering if it was the almost undetectable Bosch DV.

ANy thoughts greatly appreciated.

Cheers,

Pete

 

[johncc]

Originally posted by efcbluepete:
[qb]Was trying to see if wastegate actuator was actuating(putting hand down between cyl block & turbo & putting fingers on actuator rod and turning throotle cam) [/qb][/b]

Blimey!

Do you have asbestos hands??

First, the actuator rod coming unattached is a common problem, and it needs to be reconnected to the waste gate. You can get the parts needed from a dealer. IIRC there is one system for the Aero, and one for everyone else.

The result of this would be no boost.

Secondly, if you are getting no boost, the actuator wouldn't move anyway. Also, even if the actuator was connected, you probably wouldn't feel it move, as the turbo won't really boost unless the car is under load.

 

[scminks]

just put the wastegate rod back onto the pin on the wastegate linkage and drop a splitpin down through the little hole on the pin

simon.

 

[wulbert]

This happened to me, except the rod had corroded off and I needed to buy a new actuator.

The wastegate "lever" may be slightly jammed against the inside of the pipe due to moving beyond its normal arc. You need to ( gently) move it in a clockwise direction ( Viewed from above) to free it ,and to let it seat in the "closed" position. Then attach the rod as described above.
( mine actually stayed in position with no split pin as it is under a wee bit of pre load)

Picture the wastegate as a circular disc, hinged through its middle, rotating in a pipe.

 

[Stewart]

Yea I had the same thing on one of my last turbo's, and was just the "R" clip came off.

I tell ya (as you all know) once it's connected wow!!. Cause I bought my 1st 9000 turbo with it off and didn't know.

I thought "this is kinda slow, I thought it would have had more power than this".

Ha, ba jeesus I did!!

 

[DaveS]

If anyone needs to see what/where the rod is, have a look on BillJ's site here

 

[Great_Bu]

The same thing happened on my Aero but the split pin had rusted through and left the remains inside the hole in the wastegate lever, meaning that I couldn't get the new pin in. My solution (suggested from this board) was to put the wastegate rod back on the lever and then wrap a length of wire coat hanger around the turbo body and over the rod to keep it from slipping back off the lever. I put this on about 8 months ago and it still works fine.

 

[wrighar]

Bill's site has the pictures and adjusting method.

I have the real pick of the wastgate Inside and out...

Andrew

 

[Peter Rawlinson]

Thanks for all the help. Was about to sort it when I got home only to find it is pouring down outside, typical British weather

Recalled previous post where BillJ posted piccies and trawled the search facility, but coudn't find it - but up pops loads of help and direction to Bill's page (which I have printed out for reference - Any chance you want to teach Haynes a thing or 2, their book is worse than a Chelsea defence in France!).

Will try to get it sorted tomorrow and see what my journey home is like (much anticipation).

Cheers,

Pete

 

[DaveS]

The same thing happened on my Aero but the split pin had rusted through and left the remains inside the hole in the wastegate lever, meaning that I couldn't get the new pin in. My solution (suggested from this board) was to put the wastegate rod back on the lever and then wrap a length of wire coat hanger around the turbo body and over the rod to keep it from slipping back off the lever. I put this on about 8 months ago and it still works fine.  [/b]

It works perfectly after 5 years too! (I used heavy duty copper wire). It's logical, when you think about it - the split pin rusts away, the rod moves away from the turbo and falls off the arm. A piece of wire wrapped around the rod and the turbo stops it moving away from the turbo so rusty pins aren't a problem any more. And you can check and replace a loop of wire in no time.

 

[DaveS]

Any chance you want to teach Haynes a thing or 2, their book is worse than a Chelsea defence in France!).[/b]

It's no use reading Haynes without the proper key

 

[wedgepilot]

I put a large safety pin through mine to hold it in place...seems to be holding well