Saabscene Saab Forum - Saab Technical Information Resource banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Just got a call from reception saying my car is leaking all over the road - You can imagine the worried wait as the lift took an age to get me to what I was sure was yet another HUGE repair bill. How happy I was to see that the fluid was bright green! (Screen wash comes in some funky colours nowadays!)
I filled up with fluid at the weekend.

Only trouble is, I can't see where the leak is. Does anyone have any photos of the reseviour? i.e with the wing off?
...Or any ideas on what it can be? Hose/split/reseviour?

It is dripping quite a lot so I don't reckon there will be much left when I leave work :cry:

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
It normally leaks out under the wheel arch liner on the drivers side - normally its one of the one way valves that has perished. The new one is pennies from Euro Car Parts, to get to it you have to remove the wheel arch liner or some people claim to have success by removing the headlight and with a slim hand pulling the pipe upwards.

If you search on the forum you will see this is a common problem!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,597 Posts
Just had to repair my car. There are two one way valves at the rear side of the tank (i.e. the side nearest the front wheel.
If your wheel arches are going to be a nightmare to remove due to seized screws then you can do the following - only if you have long thinnish arms!:
1) Remove the front healight and indicator
2) Put your hand down along the side of the tank and pull the first pipe you come to off the back of the pump (about half way up the edge of the tank). This is an inline one way valve (eg. one in one out and feeds the rear washer)
3) Hold on to the end of this pipe and pull it hard forwards and you'll get it far enough to replace the valve and put it back on.
4) The next pump further down is a bit more tricky - pull off the pipe at the motor (I needed to use a small screw driver 'blind' to push off the pipe.
5) In the engine bay you can now pull the 3 way junction through and I replaced the short end pipe with a longer piece. This junction feeds the front windscreen and headlamps and is more likely to have failed.
The hardest part is now getting the end of that pipe back onto the rear pump.

In all it took me about 20mins to do the job...but as I say, I wonder whether the wheel arch route is easier if you know theyll come off without trouble??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
865 Posts
you can access valves by removing part of the undertray behind bumper,you only remove 4 or 5 screws and it pulls out.the only downside is that you have to lie under w/bottle and reach up.guess where leaking water goes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
360 Posts
And the screenwash has rotted the bolts that hold the underguard panels on so you can't undo them and have to saw the heads off ....

Be ready for a BAD time.

After you have changed the non-return valve(s) the pipes will blow off the new valve(s). When you have fixed that the pipes blow off the pumps.

After much extreme agravation I hit upon extending all the pipes so that the valves and joints are where I can get at them easily and guess what - nothing's gone wrong since (touch wood)

Best of luck !!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
On mine the power steering leaked a little and all the hoses and junctions became slippery - took me 3 goes before I realised that I was just going to have to pull the whole lot off and clean them...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
I have had that too - Power steering leak. In my case, the whole reservoir came out, all over the road, 1 week after they tarmac'd the road. Huge mess caused by a bit of tarmac that wont go hard now! Oops!

As you say, makes getting the hoses on an interesting job!
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top