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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I am having a heck of a problem with my 2000 9-3 (B205 T7) convertible. I have access to a tech2. Car has 180k. Spark plugs have 30k on them. I get a little white/blue smoke sometimes in the morning

Back in December I was having a warm start issue with the car. Would go to the store and come out 20 minutes later and the car would be hard to start. Ended up putting in a new battery (old one was failing after testing) and changed the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) 2 year from my donor car. For the last 4 months haven't really done short trips and driving the car without any issues.

This past week the car stalled when I was getting on the highway. Had the car towed home, tried to start the car and it started and drove it off the tow truck bed. I then had the car on for about 10 minutes and started to press the accelerator and after about 10 minutes, the car eventually shut off and wouldn't start.

Here is a list of what I have done to try and figure out what happening.

  • Battery:
    • Tested with the car off 12.2volts
    • Started car and put battery under load (ac, lights, blinker, radio, defogger) battery wouldn't dip below 13.1v even when with the fan kicking on. After both tests I think my battery and alternator are ok.
    • After the car shut off I also hooked up my plug in car starter (to elimate the battery) car would not start either.
  • CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor):
    • Swapped out with donor CPS that was 2 years old from parts donor car.
  • Fuel Pump:
    • Fuel pump is priming when the car is put into start and also when cranked over and doesn't start. When the car shuts off after 5-10 minutes I can still hear the fuel pump for a few seconds.
  • Fuel Pump Pressure Test:
    • I am holding a constant 35psi when the car is running. When the car is off and the key is in start, pressure comes up to 40psi (precharge). When I shut off the car after its running or when the car shuts off by itself, pressure still holds at 35psi.
  • DIC:
    • I swapped in a donor DIC back in December.
    • Tested the DIC for spark. Took off the DIC off, grounded the spark plug and then using the Tech2, fired each and tested everyone. I have spark.
  • Engine Compression Test:
Anyone have any insight on where I should go from here? Total lost.

Could the Fuel pressure regulator or the temperature sensor play a roll here?
 

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I would buy a new genuine Bosch CPS and fit that first - 1 year is good for an aftermarket (cheap) CPS some fail out of the box.
Your voltages are on the low side - at 13.1V running you are only trickle charging your battery at best.
Measure the voltage directly on the alternator hot terminal itself ...it should be nearer 14v.
Load test your battery
 

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Same symptoms as my CPS, bought a new Bosch unit for £69.00. This was for a B207 engined car though.

Check fuel pump is working, may be worth buying a new relay, only be a few dollars just to rule it out

quite a variance on the compression test - was it hot when tested?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the reply do far guys!

I would buy a new genuine Bosch CPS and fit that first - 1 year is good for an aftermarket (cheap) CPS some fail out of the box.
Your voltages are on the low side - at 13.1V running you are only trickle charging your battery at best.
Measure the voltage directly on the alternator hot terminal itself ...it should be nearer 14v.
Load test your battery
I am going to double check the CPS today, but I want to say the reason I used it was because it was a Bosch sensor and dated 2 years old on jacket.

I will double check the hot terminal in the alternator today as well. I should be seeing 14v. Quick question, wouldn't having my battery charger connected to the car battery while the car is running supply enough additional volts to eliminate the charging/battery system from the equation? For example, my charger has the "Engine Start" feature which I used after the car shut off, car still wouldn't turn over, it would crank but not turn on (Had to wait for at least 15 min before it would turn over). Just thinking out loud.

Same symptoms as my CPS, bought a new Bosch unit for £69.00. This was for a B207 engined car though.

Check fuel pump is working, may be worth buying a new relay, only be a few dollars just to rule it out

quite a variance on the compression test - was it hot when tested?
Fuel pump is priming (40psi)(I can hear it). Giving me steady 35psi when car is running. When the car stalls, I can still hear the fuel pump for a few seconds afterwards.

I forgot to mention, changed the fuel pump relay (under the dashboard) with known working one from donor.

I did the compression test with the engine not fully warmed up. I started the car, ran it for 3 minutes then pulled the fuel fuse from the fuse box. Then removed DIC and all the plugs. Then hooked up compression gauge to each cylinder and fired for about 4-5 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Update

Update:
Just redid the compression test. This time I let the car warm up for 10-15min. Compression was good across all cylinders:
Cylinder 1:180psi Cylinder 2:190psi Cylinder 3:180psi Cylinder 4:180psi.

Put in a new coolant thermostat (after reading forums)(Stalling & hard to start issue continues)

Restarted the car, let it idle and then began giving it gas. Kept the idle at around 2k until the car again stalled.

Tried to restart and it wouldn't. So hooked up my jumper again and set it to car start and the car turned on. So I was like hmmm could it be the battery? Then the car shut off again shortly. Charger still connected and in start car mode, 13.4v as per my meter, car didn't restart. Pretty sure its not battery issue.

Here is a video of what is happening. I am stepping on the gas on and off. Eventually I say miss, but meant to say the car hesitated, after a few more moments of my stepping on and off of the gas, it stalls.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g218/fcastro75/Saab/VID_20160321_154459.mp4
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brake Booster

I forgot to mention over the last 3 weeks, there has been a hissing whistling sound coming from the brake booster unit (internally) whenever I step pn the brake all the way down.

Not sure if this is playing a factor in my starting issue.
 

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That could be your problem....disconnect the pipe at the servo and blank the end that runs to the inlet manifold.If you have a vacuum problem then this plays merry with the T7 engine management.
Surely you must be getting EML's have you not read the codes?
If the engine runs then you know what to do next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That could be your problem....disconnect the pipe at the servo and blank the end that runs to the inlet manifold.If you have a vacuum problem then this plays merry with the T7 engine management.
Surely you must be getting EML's have you not read the codes?
If the engine runs then you know what to do next.
Hi Cj, no codes at all. I have a tech2 on hand. Do you think you can further explain what I should try to do? There is a pipe into the booster unit.
 

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going back to the cps make sure the old o ring/gasket came out when you replaced

I would think that you would notice a stiff brake pedal with the servo developing a fault tbh, but you could check the check/one way valve on the pipe to manifold is not blocked/kincked. ther is also a diaphragm related to the servo side but I don't think this is your issue with your symptom tbh
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
going back to the cps make sure the old o ring/gasket came out when you replaced

I would think that you would notice a stiff brake pedal with the servo developing a fault tbh, but you could check the check/one way valve on the pipe to manifold is not blocked/kincked. ther is also a diaphragm related to the servo side but I don't think this is your issue with your symptom tbh
I am pretty sure I checked to make sure I was only using 1 gasket when I put the new CPS in. The loaner CPS has its own gasket as well. I should have measured the length of both them. But the car has been used as a daily driver for 3 months since the change.

Ironically just had a brake booster on a 3 year old truck just go bad. As you mentioned the brake pedal went very stiff when pressed and hard to brake. My pedal brakes normal and just makes a high pitch sound. I used my stethoscope and traced it to the brake booster unit. My leak may just have started. Is there a way to check for oil inside there?

BTW we are assuming you have changed the CPS again based on our earlier replies?
Moving on though.....
Check the pipework circled below.
If you have a leak at the servo/diaphragm then you can temporarily unplug at position 3 and blank the pipe
View attachment 41977

http://s607.photobucket.com/user/cjapeterborough/media/servo93.png.html
Thanks cj for the image. I ordered a new CPS should be here next week (Bosch). Ok so you said to unplug at 3 which I get, lost me at blank the pipe. Should I disconnect and then just leave it unplugged?
 

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You need to plug/blank close off the end of the pipe so it doesnt leak when you disconnect it - may have to be creative eg rubber bung/tape/disposable glove ...anything that will hold temporarily so you can eliminate a leak at the servo
 

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it may be worth swapping out the cps again or at least doing a resistance test on the original which should read around 860 ohms +- 90 ohms pins 1 and 2 it may be worth also checking the wiring at the plug too
 

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As a tip if you want to check the CPS before fitting to the car I test submerged in a pyrex jug with boiling water.The resistance should only go up slightly -say 1000 ohms. A bad one will quickly go to either a huge number or open circuit.
 

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thought that was more related to a temperature sensor
Just an easy way of checking if the resistance of a CPS changes with temp=faulty
If you have an oil bath and hotplate then you can get nearer engine block operating temperatures but 100 degrees helps to pick out a failing CPS and gives confidence to install it.
I bought a batch of chinese cheap CPS's and tested them this way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
You need to plug/blank close off the end of the pipe so it doesnt leak when you disconnect it - may have to be creative eg rubber bung/tape/disposable glove ...anything that will hold temporarily so you can eliminate a leak at the servo
OK so I should plug it. I know somewhat silly but should I plug the end going into the booster or just the pipe I pull out? Or both?

it may be worth swapping out the cps again or at least doing a resistance test on the original which should read around 860 ohms +- 90 ohms pins 1 and 2 it may be worth also checking the wiring at the plug too
I was thinking of doing the same, but since I ordered a new one and since I remember that bolt was a pain to put back in, I will just put in the new one. The one i had put in there before was a used one from the parts car that was 2 years old and from Bosch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just to update, took the used CPS and tested and the resitance was just out of spec hence, failed.
 

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thought that was more related to a temperature sensor
yes and no, you need to get it hot, more chances of the fault showing up. check the ohms hot and cold looking for a difference. Submerge the end that goes into the engine and senses the crank position only!
 
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