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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't help but notice that the gearchange on my Aero seems a little 'notvhy' even if i change gears with the engine off etc.

I got a Saab 93 with 9K on the clock as a loan car when mine went in for a service and the gearbox felt very smooth when changing.

I am going to replace the engine mounts and replace all the bushes with poly units, but surely there are other things to consider as well.

Will the engine mounts make a big difference?
And are there any specific area's in the gear linkage etc. i need to look at?

Thanks
Skiddins
 

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Is it most often 1,2,5 and R that are notchy, with 3 & 4 OK?

There is a rubber coupling in the gear linkage that is well-known for separating and causing gearchange problems. Look down on top of the gearbox, near the bulkhead, while someone wiggles the gear lever. You should be able to see the coupling moving. Get them to move the lever as far as possible from side to side. If the rubber is separating it should be apparent as the front plate of the coupling won't move as far as the rear plate and you will probably be able to see the separation in the rubber.

It's not expensive and is not too hard to fit, although a bit fiddly.
 

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The 9000 gearbox has never been the smoothest of beasts, even when new. A lot do seem to suffer a degree of difficulty getting in to first on the roll up to junctions for example. There are three main probable causes of this:

<ul type="square">
[*]Poor alignment, which can be adjusted (very cheap)
[/list]
<ul type="square">
[*]Worn rubber coupling (cheap)
[/list]
<ul type="square">
[*]Worn synchro rings (ouch!)
[/list]
I've suffered all 3... and they're very difficult to tell apart except for maybe the worn coupling which also shows up as excessive play when in gear.
 

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Originally posted by Jason (Mr Torque-Steer):
[qb]I find that it's very difficult to engage 1st unless the cars stationary. Is this normal?[/qb][/b]
you should be able to engage 1st whilst moving slowly, only being able to engage whilst stationary suggests a worn synchro
 

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Originally posted by Skiddins:
[qb]Dare i ask how much the snchro problem cost to get repaired?

Skiddins[/qb][/b]
when I enquired about this, my local gearbox specialists would do it for the cost of the synchro (£100) as part of doing a recon (£500-600). A recon at this price usually means bearings and gaskets. Add about £100 if you don't want to remove the gearbox yourself and another £150 for new clutch and slave.
Alternativly you could replace the synchro youself for £100 like I did http://homepage.ntlworld.com/home01/gearbox/index.html
 

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on a related note, my aero had a lot of left-right play in the shifter when I got it. It didn't have the replaceable old rectangular linkage http://homepage.ntlworld.com/home01/cars/oldlink.jpg but has the new style linkage http://homepage.ntlworld.com/home01/cars/newlink.jpg
In this case the rubber was fine, but the hole for the locking pin had started to ovalise causing the excessive play. I managed to machine the pin and hole so that they fitted snuggly again.
Has anyone had to replace this style of linkage before, if so how much are they? I've not seen them from aftermarket suppliers and they are not even listed in the '98 edition of the EPC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I can change into 1st while moving slowly, but it clearly doesn't seem to like it that much (however, it doesn't cruch or anything like that).

I'm beginning to think that perhaps the clutch is on the way out. Is it fully self adjusting, i mean will it just suddenly give up on me at some point or will it slowly travel to the floor?

Skiddins
 

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Well Trents assured me that my gearbox had been rebuilt while in their costody while the car was awaiting sale. I belive them as well. However, my top torque engine mount is about shot, would this effect shifting?

I will spend some time examining the other couplings and see what might be causing this.
 
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