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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all... had my tonsils out last week (ouch, but that's another story), last night took my baby out for a spin for the first time. First bit of mild throttle (nowhere near full boost) and the boost gauge stopped working, very audible hiss in the cabin when on overrun (goes away when you're on the throttle).

I had an inspection of the pipes, starting at the T junction by the battery... it appears there's a big crack in the pipe right by the T junction, on the section that appears to go up to the inlet manifold.

I've bought a section of silicon hose from elkparts however I shouldn't think that'll be here before monday/tuesday. The car appears driveable however the only way I can get rid of that irritating hissing is to disconnect the section of pipe that goes to the boost gauge. Silly question I know but will driving the car in this state have any negative effect? It seems driveable (takes a bit longer to settle down to idle though - or am I imagining it?) but thought I'd check. Need to drive a 300mile round trip on sunday from london to hereford and back, always worth making sure

any advice gratefully received!

ps related to this, when I come to replace the piping, I think the one that goes off into the bulkhead towards the boost gauge will need replacing too. The rubber (or whatever it's made out of) feels very solid and not as bendy as I think it should. How far into the bulkhead does this tube go? Is changing it easy? Is it one piece of pipe all the way from the T-junction up to the pipe? I could check for myself I suppose but it's a bit cold and I don't quite fancy dismantling the car just yet if I can help it Thanks!
 

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From my recollection the hose goes to the bulkhead connector and from the bulkhead connector on the other side (behind you glove box to the back of the instrument panel.
So before you pop the top of the dash off check behind the glove box to see what the hose is like, it less likly to be as badly weathered.
 

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You're OK for fuelling as Trionic can cope with leaks
.

It will however make the dumpvalve slower to operate as it won't have the full vacuum applied to it when you close the throttle, so you may get a bit more compressor stall between gear changes. You could cut a short length of good hose from the tube, put it on the T piece and clamp the open end to solve the problem.
 

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Your car may well be different but on an '89 FPT, the hose goes through the bulkhead and through two separate sensors before it reaches the gauge.

One is the over-pressure cut-off, the other I don't know.

Suggest you have a quick look - just remove the kick-panel under the steering column.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi all! Thanks for the input - only just got home and it's dark, need to leave a bit early tomorrow so I think this I will borrow my mum's car and treat this as monday's job! Cheers for the tips :)

ps mine's a 96 CSE fpt
 

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Originally posted by DaveS:
[qb]Your car may well be different but on an '89 FPT, the hose goes through the bulkhead and through two separate sensors before it reaches the gauge.[/qb][/b]
It is... the only thing the tube goes through to on a Trionic (MY93/94 onwards) is the dash gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Just fitted the new tubes this morning - works like a charm! I replaced all three hoses from that T-junction, although only fault I could find was the aforementioned crack. All three appeared pretty brittle though so replacement seemed like a good idea. Seems to boost fine now, gauge back working, total result!

Thanks for all your input!

Cheers, Jules
 
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