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Discussion Starter #1
fitted !!
Well impressed by this device..nicely made and good instructions
sexy covered switch for high boost
easy as pie to set up
the boost is set by two knobs which have a distinctive click action..so it is easy to give it a " couple of more clicks " he he
In operation it spikes less than my old dawes did
and I can set it closer to the edge of fuel cut off
It is curently set @ granny mode is about 1bar max boost
high boost is currently 1.45 bar peak dropping to
1.3 sustained

you can switch between them seamlessly at any time
nice bit of kit and good service from the supplier.. I tracked my shipment thro dhl all the way from melbourne and it arrived in 5 days as promised
 

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Originally posted by ylee coyote:
[qb]a johnnie maptun problem....    [/qb][/b]
Hmm... he got very rude with me when he thought I was running an MBC as well as their software...

Or put another way, rather than fooling the system with non-integrtaed controls, let the software take care of it all.

After a lot of mucking about, I'm inclined to agree. Trionic has so much going for it, it seems daft not to use it. I'm now only running a base boost of 0.5 bar, but still hold 1.5 bar into the 5k's- all under software control, so if there is a problem, it will reduce the boost.
 

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 but still hold 1.5 bar into the 5k's-[/b]
And doesn't give that tailing off feeling to let you know the rev limiter is close.. Sorry.. I didn't even notice


I do think you need a PSI calibrated boost guage though.

A
 

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No worries Andrew- I'm sure I hit 6400
a couple of times tonight when I went out for a "proper" drive


I just can't emphasise enough what a
difference the head has made...

Why PSI tho? I'm happy with my bar gauge, which is pretty accurate
 

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Originally posted by Mark E:
[qb]I just can't emphasise enough what a    :fawlty:   difference the head has made...[/qb][/b]
How can you tell what part of the difference is due to the head and what part is due to the ECU?

I know removing the heatplate on mine, still with the standard ECU, made a very noticeable difference to top end performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It would be nice for it all to be under software control... however the gated mbc gives a lot more low down grunt it seems...
When (if!) I get the maptun ecu, it will be easy to run it back to back

the red toggle switch looks cool tho....
 

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Why PSI tho? I'm happy with my bar gauge, which is pretty accurate  [/b]
I haven't gone metric yet.
I bought PSI as I liked the 1 psi divisions which for me where good for setting the base boost to within about 0.5 psi.

I can't remember if it was calibrated in 0.1 bar divisions or not, it does have nice big 0.5 bar divisions, and seems to sit on the 3rd of them very well. I didn't really have much time to look at it though.

Andrew
 

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Originally posted by BillJ:
[qb]How can you tell what part of the difference is due to the head and what part is due to the ECU?
[/qb][/b]
Because I drove the car for a while with the ECU before I had the head done- and that was before the software in the ECU was "slugged" to cure the overboost problem. A temporary overboost will always make it feel quicker, but what I'm experiencing now is a genuine free flowing urge above 4500! This won't have been affected by the remapping.
 

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Originally posted by Scaero (ecopower stg0):
I can't remember if it was calibrated in 0.1 bar divisions or not[/b]
it is...

it does have nice big 0.5 bar divisions, and seems to sit on the 3rd of them very well.[/b]
I know, fun, isn't it?

I didn't really have much time to look at it though.[/b]
I wonder why that was then
 

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Hi,
If you had the TurboSmart box mounted in the cabin wouldn't that allow you to make adjustments on the fly? Seems like it would be worthwhile mounting inside if you can do this.
 

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Originally posted by maxter:
[qb]I'm relatively new to "modding" so how does this help performance      and is this for T5 ecu's only?    [/qb][/b]
It is used to raise boost pressure, which provided the fuel and timing are good for it, produces more power. It will not help T7 cars being that the T& looks for a certain amount of airflow and adjusts the electronic throttle accordingly. Therefore, if you try to raise the boost with a manual boost controller, the throttle will not open fully and no performance gains will be noticed.
 

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Originally posted by Griffin #341:
[qb]Hi,
If you had the TurboSmart box mounted in the cabin wouldn't that allow you to make adjustments on the fly? Seems like it would be worthwhile mounting inside if you can do this.
 
 [/qb][/b]
This would not work as the hose lengths must be kept as short as possible. Longer hoses mean the time for the wastegate to react will be longer and therefore create big, nasty boost spikes that will in turn trigger a fuel cut on T5 cars.
 
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