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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

after being advised to look at the 9000 range instead of the 900's

i have seen a 9000 turbo 89 h plate 140k on the clock

question is ?? re the turbo unit

when the car is running, at idle where should the turbo needle sit,

and how much should it move when revved??

how much movement should ther be? i could only get it to move a amall amount..

mind you that was with the car static..

any gremlins in this range vehicle if so any advice would be appreciated..

also what are the counting / moving lights on the dash??

like leds that move l>r when you turn on??

thanks for your advice in advance
regs

mart
 

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Hi again Matt

First of all the turbo needle will sit down to the left in the white on tickover, showing vacuum in the manifold.

When stationary revving the engine the needle will only move a bit, no load on the engine to make the turbo work.

The LED's sound like the fuel economy bar on a manual car. You should have buttons under the clock that allow you to change the readings in the other half of the LED display.

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi again Neil,

can remember the actual layout but im sur that the needle was in the vertical posn at idle,

and when revs blipped to about 3/4000 rpm

it moved a small amount to the right,

i may go and have a test drive to see if this changes any thing

also noticed a whirring noise in engine bay

either waterpump or one cam?? seemed to be in that area

any pearls of wisdom on this lot

regs again

matt
 

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Try driving it and make sure the turbo is working. You should feel it pull, and try to watch the guage, a standard car should go to the end of the yellow on full boost, or more.

Hard to say on the noise, check the auxillary belt though, the tensioners can give trouble. Easily replaced though.

Good luck

Neil
 

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I have a 1990MY turbo. Whirring might be the timing chain etc. expensive if it goes wrong .

Turbo boost guage is in 3 sections and at idle sits in the white at a sort of 10 o'clock angle. If you go for a drive it should be on the border white to yellow if you are neither accelerating nor decelerating about 11 o'clock, maybe halfway in to the red when really accelerating with max. boost, say 2 o'clock and in the yellow almost red when the boost has peaked and fallen back, say 1 o'clock. Anything past 3000RPM should feel pretty rapid .

The LEDs are to show how heavy/light footed you are....good fun on motorways where you can get 35 mpg cruising at 80mph . Or if you drive like a barsteward you get a lot more fun but far fewer MPG
.

I have done the timing chain, new engine mounts, all the rubber bushes, new clutch, replaced the turbo, head gasket and a few other odds and sods and the car is pretty good now, but look for receipts for those sorts of things as your potential car will probably need to have them all done given it's age and mileage
. If in doubt find a local expert. There are plenty about and the board members know the good ones. Spend 2 hours labour and let them give the car a going over. Then you can haggle on price or walk away knowing what is in store when you look at the next one .

Helluva car if you get a good one/are prepared to get it up to scratch. Mine needs a a new front pipe so sounds like a tractor, but hey, I go on holiday at the end of today, so who cares ?

billthetractordriver
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi all

thanks for the turby bits advice..

all seems ok there the other niggles found where

ther is a whirring from the front top area of the cylinder head..

could this be chain problems...

also when driving, after applying the brakes, the abs light came on, and stayed on

it only went off when i turned the ignition off

then it stayed off when i restarted. i tryed pressing the brake with the hand brake off, and it still stayed off

any ideas, or is this a wallet clearing problem??

regs

matt
 
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