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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Brothers 9000 has died.. on the way into work it stalled and will not start..turns over fine but nothing. Got towed home.. rescue guy says no spart on any coil on the DI cart.

Letting the egine go through its check engine cycle shows nothing.

Have disconnected the battery for a bit, checked the ignition fuse, fuel pump seems to be OK (but not totally sure how to confirm this).

Its stalled like this in the past and recovered a short time later and sometimes he has to let it go through the full check engine cycle before it will start.


Its a J reg CDE 2.3 FPT

Any ideas?

Steve
 

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I can only think of the crank angle sensor (I think it's on the timing cover?)
This is known to give up temporarily once or twice before finally giving up the ghost. Don't know how you would test it. Some say that if it's OK you should see the tacho needle bounce as you turn the engine over. This may be true for older cars. However, on my Trionic cars, the tacho never moves until the engine fires.
 

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a funny thing happened to me about a week ago... my saab wasn't starting, and i had no idea why. everything seemed fine, battery wasn't dead, electronics were working, but there was no cranking when i turned the ignition. it happens that i parked the car in neutral (auto) the night before, and accidentally bumped the shifter into drive...

ok so that probably doesn't help you with your problem, but i thought maybe you could use a laugh! oh yes, the tach needles does bounce.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It would help if Haynes even gave a wiring diagram
for the DI electronics!

Is it possible for the ECU to be very dead? Surely if (say) there was no positive supply to the DI cart then I'd get messages from the ECU.
Or is it the ECU that does the slow turn off of all the lights at start-up? Because that's working.

I am getting suspicious of the immobiliser (suspect it disables both the start and the spark - otherwise it would be easy to jumper it at the starter motor), but without proper wiring diagrams of what there is meant to be, working out what's there is going to be very difficult
indeed.

So does anyone know if this can be caused by the META immobilisers (the one with the little dongle and the slot you have to push it into) and if so how easy is it to bypass it for testing.

Steve
 

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my brother had a nissan with one of those immobilisers installed. .the funny thing was that it only worked 1/2 the time... as in you didnt need to insert the dongle sometimes for you to be able to start the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wobbled round near the imobiliser relay and now it doesn't crank...so I guess its something to do with that.

So does anyone know how to bypass to imobiliser.. its one of the META ones?

Steve
 

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It would appear, searching on Google, that META still make alarms etc.

You might want to call an approved supplier and fitter to ask their advice.
I should think if the unit is a Thatcham approved one, it would take time for them to be able bypass it (if it could be done easily it wouldn't get approval).

Skiddins
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My brother has called the garage and its in their hands...luckily he doesn;t need the car for a few days.

SaabKat's car as a Meta alarm system in it, along with one of those widgit driven Meta immobilisers.. BUT we never use the immobiliser, the key slot is there and it seems to be wired into something (well lets put it this way the two wires from the slot vanish into the wiring) but not the system that seems to control the central locking and the alarm. I was going to do some digging round to see if I could help my brother out but after his experiences I am going to leave it well alone I think.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Being a J reg its a hard wired cart so its not very easy to just try another one.

When it was cranking there were no sparks from any of the units on the DI cart. As it now wont crank (and the battery is fine) we both think its the immobiliser.

Wouldn't the ECU report a dead DI cart as it profiles the plugs so if it couldn't wouldn't it report an error.

Steve
 

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Not always, I've seen them give up suddenly with no warning on the dash. If it won't turn over but the battery is fine, have you checked the main earth on the engine? You may also have more than one fault, I was getting intermittant non-start problems and it turned out to be the starter. One time it turned and started the next there would be nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update.

Garage finally got round to looking at it (about week after they towed it off my brother's drive). Diagnosed a dead TDC sensor (is this the same as the crank sensor). Ordered a new one from saab... but they sent the wrong one.. proper one arriving tomorrow.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well Saab once again mess up. Despite repeatedly saying they would have the part by Thursday last week it has yet to turn up and today the local saab dealer wouldn't answer the phone. Garage say that they are pretty sure that it will fix the problem when, or should that be if, it arrives.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The car is now back, with new DI cartridge. Looks like DI was original problem, but then something else failed and hence it wouldn't crank. When they got it to crank again, it wouldn't fire, and so they borrowed a DI from Gloucester Saab, on a use-or-return basis, and it's now fine (and the stumble at around 2000RPM has gone as well). Big bill coming though!

So with a new DI cart and a new crank sensor my brother is hoping his J reg with 140+K on the clock will keep running for a few more years.

Steve
 

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Glad the car is now running again - My Di packed up with a few false starts or not as the case may be - fault doesn't show and local Saab dealer said it would not show on their diagnostics - only way is to change to a known good one which they did for me on a return if not the problem basis.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
We did wonder if it was the DI cart right at the start. It was the original hard wired cart (i.e. not unpluggable) so 140+K and 11 years is not bad I guess (some sort of record?), and as my brother pointed out last night in the pub, in any other car you would have had to replace several distributor caps, rotor arm and plug lead sets so the cost is really not that excessive.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
And after a long delay I can bring you the answer... was round at my brothers house this evening and hes just had to have two new shocks and new anti-roll bars for his MOT... and I remembered to ask him.

So the cost to my brother: DI cart was £158, wiring loom was £30, TDC sensor was £169. All plus VAT of course.
 
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