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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
New here as i've recently acquired a 95 Griffin, apart from the regular visits to the petrol station (22.8 mpg) I really love this car and have known it for the last 9 years as i know the previous owner and that he maintained it properly.
Last September he spent £1600 on a whole host of things including cam-belt water pump, matrix, tyres etc.

My new problem...........

Driving to my mums caravan 2 days ago, i stupidly left interior lights/phone charger and doors open and drained the battery.
I got a jump start and left the engine running for 45 mins to recharge the battery then came back out to find steam and water/coolant coming from the Off/Side of the rad below the top pipe.

I did notice a small pipe had come off and put it back on with a new jubilee clip thinking that would solve it.
BUT, Driving the 1.5 hours drive back home, it happened again.

I got an Oil warning light, pulled over and noticed the steam water/Coolant leaking again.
My Dash temp was normal between L & H, (i am having to top coolant up a bit after these episodes),
there is no cream/sludge in engine oil cap or oil in the Coolant or coolant expansion tank so i don't expect Gasket and no loss of power.

Someone suggested using Radweld but id like to know the cause in case there is a better alternative.

Ill try upload a pic/video later to explain a bit more and i have read previous posts but they don't really adhere to my recent experience so ask what you think would be best or what you expect.

Thanks in advance

Stuart
 

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Don't use Radweld. It clogs things up. Get the problem fixed properly instead. I used it once on an old Volvo 1800ES that I was restoring. It solved the short term problem - a slight coolant leak, but created another when the pipe from the expansion tank to the radiator blocked up.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can see new rads on eurocarparts for about £83.
I just cant see where it leaks from. I took the pipe off and checked for splits but nothing.
It hasn't leaked since but i have only driven it for about 40 mins max.
Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can drive for 2 hours without a problem but as soon as i am stationary in traffic for 15 minutes, it starts hissing and coming out the Offside side panel about half way down the side.
I took a risk with Kseal but it hasnt made any difference.
Does anyone know where the thermostat is so that i can bridge it to see if the fans kick in.
I have never heard or seen those 2 fans on the rad running but the temp gauge on the dash only goes half way.
I assume that if the water is too hot and fan doesnt kick in, water pressure builds up and it comes out the weakest point?
 

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possible cause if you can her it hiss and don't really see a leak is the pressure cap failing......see if insulation under bonnet is damp

also if you see a few drips worth checking water pump
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi Kez,
Yes there is definitely water coming out like a big "steam mist" and also heavy dripping from the (offside, side of the rad),
I cant hear the fans kick in, infact never have but the dash temp is only half way up like normal.
Only when the car is moving very slowly in traffic or stationary it happens.
The cambelt & water pump was replaced all new 11 months ago.
 

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S44B DM,

Sounds like the wiring to your fan is goosed. Not unheard of for this to happen. Whilst moving there is enough forced airflow to not need it but when stationary, that's when it should kick in. Surprised the temp gauge does'nt start to rise though.

The 'stat is at the rear left side of the head with a temp sensor next to it. There is a second sensor in the middle of the inlet manifold down the back out of sight. This second one is for ecu use and the first should control the fan. Not sure which drives the gauge though. I think it is a 'virtual' gauge outputting what the ecu 'thinks' you should see rather than the actual temperature so you don't worry about variations around the norm. It only shows significant deviations which you are more likely to notice.

I agree with Capt Jack. Fix the problem, don't mask the symptoms.

Paul @ Kippen.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Paul,
Without taking battery & pipes out to get to it to take pics,
I think i have found the Thermostat but need to bridge the sensor to check rad fans out.
Got any tips/clues for that?
Also, i added a picture of where it leaks once too hot in case anyone has seen/heard similar place for it to leak.
 

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Had similar on a vauxhall omega,it turned out to be a hairline crack in the rad(just under top hose connection).So just changed rad and problem sorted.hth
 

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from looking at you picture id agree its coming from the rad and is escaping as the pressure builds up as it gets hotter, could be a few reasons for it to do this inc as noelpen has said

re rad weld yes it will cure it in the short term but as others have said just replace and at the same time give the cooling system a good flush refilling with new long life antifreeze

as for the sensors Paul I believe will be the better one here......not a lot he doesn't know :)
 

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Hi,

What's the temp gauge doing?
I had very similar on an old pug, the h/g had gone and it was forcing the compressed fuel mix into the cooling system. Eventually it blew the rad. no slug/mayo in the oil cap as the gasses blew from the cylinder/head straight into a waterway in the head. It was an old shitter/workhorse of a car worth little so after replacing the rad i used KSEAL which sealed the blow. I did a further 12k in the car without a problem and sold it on, running sweet as a nut - yes i did tell the buyer.

The blown rad was a symptom of the overpressure, mine only really used to do it when stationary and up to temp/after a run. If once the rad is changed it still keeps dumping coolant via the expansion tank overflow then this may be a contender. Get the fans checked to see if they are working right, it could be the fans not running whilst sat there for 45 mins have caused h/g failure.

Its a theory only but a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ok, update..
I read a thread on bridging the relays to check the fans actually work.
Both the fans work when bridging the relay for Fan Low, Fan high2 but not fan high1.

I crimped a spaded connection to bridge them all.
I just got back after driving for 20 minutes, pulled up and let the engine run idle stationary which seems to cause the leaks.

After 10 mins, no fans were running and i see the coolant starting to spray a mist down the OffSide of the Rad somewhere behind the heat shield (ref my pic).

I left the engine running idle then bridged the Fan high 2 which kicked the fan in, the leak slowed down and then totally stopped.
Left it 5 mins and no leak,
I then un-bridged the Fanhigh2 relay and then bridged the fan-low relay to see if the fan speed on low would be suffice as not to make the leak leak.
After 10 mins, still no leak. So as it is, on long journeys i need to use a switch to bridge the Fanlow to temporarily resolve it as i am going to Clacton next week.

In the mean time, i think it's the temp sensor not switching the relays on to turn the fans that i now know work?
the Temp sensor is screwed in on the N/S-passenger side of the engine yeah?

Hi Zohan, the temp gauge on the dash is normal on 50%, it builds up to half way and stays there even when i can see its piping hot.
But apparently runs off of a sensor out of sight behind the manifold.
The coolant has no oil in it, the oil has no mayo, im hoping the gasket and wate jackets are ok and its just over pressure leaking from the rad at some point.

Im used to HG blowing & overheating as ive had 2 Renault 5 GT turbos lol
 

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S44B DM,

I think it is more likely that there is a break in the wiring to the fan. When you say you bridged the fan. Did you take a feed direct to the connection at the fan, or at the subsidiary fuse / relay box. If it was direct to the fan then you have proven that the fan works, not that the wiring is OK. To do that you need to bridge to the output connection in the relay box. Pull the relevant relay and hot wire a live to the output part of the socket to see if the fan runs. If it doesn't then fit a jumper between there and the fan connector, stick the relay back in and see if it works properly.

I'm pretty sure the sensor on the back of the manifold is for the main engine ecu so that it can adjust the reading from the mass flow meter etc. to get accurate mixture calculations. pV = nrT etc.

Paul @ Kippen.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Paul,
I didnt actually bridge the fan itself, i took the 3 relays (FanLow, Fanhigh1 & Fanhigh2) out , they sit in the covered fuse/relay tray behind the battery and then using a piece of cable with a spade connector crimped on each end, i physically wired the spade slots that the relays fit into i think its connection 30 & 87 together. The fan kicked in for fanlow & fanhigh2 when wired but fanhigh1 didnt. Ill add some pics later.
I will physically wire the fanlow when going away next weekend as it doesnt leak when the fan is running but wondering what you all thought on whether it's the thermostat or coolant temp sensor. and more importantly, where the temp sensor is and looks like? is it a blue connector?
thanks
Stuart
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Got my sensor and coolant today total £16.
Took the rocker cover off and undone the 4 bolts that hold a bracket that i could then move over to access the sensor.
No need to take pipes off or battery out.
Swapped sensors over and after 15 mins idle running the fans kicked in :):thumbsup:
Attached pic of the old sensor
Cheers peeps
 

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