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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
now as you all must know i have condemned my d.i and was about to buy a new one....but,and please correct me if i am wrong,i thought..the di consists of condensors and coils,the coils being oil cooled/failure occurs when coil overheats through lack of oil.the symptoms /car ok,run car/coils heat/missfire.but recently i have started car from cold/missfire,drove 2mls stopped for 10 min .ON RESTART CAR IS OK.iam now not so sure it is di fault/any views on this?? i dont mind buying new di,but would be sick as a pig if that was not problem
 

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The oil in the coils acts as an insulator... if the oil leaks out then the coil does not charge properly and you get a weak spark...temperature shouldn't make much difference to it (well it didn't with mine - I always got it when I loaded the engine .. like trying to accelerate from 30-40 in 4th).
Does the misfire still happen after you restart or has it gone away?.. If it has then it would indicate that it is not a DI problem.

Have you tried checking all the connections on the engine... sensors, injectors?

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
sometimes its ok other times missfire.strange thing is i have another di and it runs exact.same distance 6mls then car cuts out ,wont restart/sit for 5min car restarts runs ok for at least 20 mls weird or what?
 

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I had similar problem on my car. I spoke to BPV. The gut there suggested it could be a faulty air mass meter. He was right. Cheapy second hand one sorted it. See if you can try out first with another A>M>M. Not many people think of that but I'm told if its not the DI, more likely to me A.M.M than ECU.

Julian
 

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2 DI units with exactly the same fault symptoms is most unlikely. (NB: DI's have a variety of failure scenarios).

I believe that the Saab ECU (ESATS?) Testers can pick up error codes even if the dash Engine Managment warning sign does not activate. Most codes are stored i nmemory on the later ECU units. Find a non-franchised Saab specialist with a device to interogate the ECU. Or swap out other sensors assuming that you can get hold of them free for the short term!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
j.d.,ive had prob with a.m.m before/erratic idle, running rich,if i remember right i changed both di and amm at same time decided it was di and refitted original amm.tonight while i was waiting for her indoors at asda idle went from 900rpm to 1500 rpm for 4..5 seconds/whitish plume from exhaust....the plot thickens;;;;;
 

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This cold be totally off the wall but...

If you changed both the AMM and the DI but then later refitted the AMM and you again have the fault, is it not a good idea to put the other AMM i again? I agree with Paul D; it is unlikely that two DI would have the exact same fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well,fitted new di today,no more missfire but car still racing at idle 2000 rpm and when driving if i lift off throttle car wants to stall,but have just fitted good amm so will see what happens later.i also have good temp.sensor so if all is not well will fit on sat.WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY TO REBUILD;;
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well,with new amm its bloody worse,went to shop at bottom of road and was lucky to get back/spluttering as if about to run out of fuel,when i came to junction had to brake and rev to keep engine going.got home changed amm ,at least it is ticking over but i dont think this is end of saga/this is doing my bloody head in.i will try idle valve sat.and if that dont fix it i,ll change temp.sensor after that i,m beat.thanks for help anyway.
 
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