Saabscene Saab Forum - Saab Technical Information Resource banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi
I recently discovered the swirl flap connecting rod had come off, and when I put it back on it was clear that the points at which it connects to the manifold were worn so it wobbles around. Despite this, when I drove it afterwards the engine felt amazing so I could tell it was still on !! However it now feels sluggish again and it smells when I first start it up again so suspect the damn thing has fallen off again.
My question is do I have to have the manifold replaced, or are there any cheeky ways around this ? Not sure if the rod is worn or the swirl flap connecting points yet but if its the rod then maybe that could be replaced on its own ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hi,

There are a few threads on this already but I've never seen my particular fix, anyway..........

The fix I used for the swirl rod was to remove the rod from the car (obviously), this is made easier by removing glow plug leads 3 and 4 and using a piece of wire, like a metal coat hanger, bent into a hook.
At this point note the shape of the rod when removed as one side is slightly higher at the end (driver's side).
Give the rod a good clean, especially the plastic cups. Then give the cups a firm rub with some emery cloth or sandpaper to make them rough around the hole. Fill the holes up flush using a small piece of rolled up tissue or the like to stop the glue from getting in ( make it quite tight). I then used number plate caps from work (the kind like a little bowl with a snap over lid) with the lids removed, but B & Q do the same thing as a screw cap. These caps fit neatly around the plastic cups so when you fill the screw cap with glue and push it on it bonds around the side as well as the bottom of the cup on the rod. I used a bostik twin syringe type glue that set in one minute (rough handling 1 hour) and had the highest heat resistance I could find. Wipe off the excess glue but don't worry about it filling the hole in the cap.
After an hour I checked the caps were secure then used a small drill bit in my fingers to get through the glue that had come through the hole on the cap and get the tissue out of the cup.
After applying a small amount of grease or copaslip to the holes you're ready to re-fit the rod.
(Make sure all your swirl flaps are positioned the same as number 3.)
I found the easiest way to do this was to drop the rod back in place then use the wire hook to place it on the balls on top of the flaps then give it a good firm push with a longish screwdriver and WALLAH!
The rod can be a bit awkward to line up but a little patience and perseverance and you'll get it.
I came up with this after trying the rubber washers on the bottom of the cups fix which I couldn't get to work, they fell off as soon as I tried to refit the rod, and I've covered almost 8K miles with the caps with no problem, I've checked it a few times and it's still perfect.

I hope this helps and hasn't been too long, boring or complicated, it really is easy.


p.s. don't forget to put your glow plug leads back on!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
hi guys,
my connecting rod has come off, and one of the swirl flaps has come loose. It is now leaking oil but not very much as far as I can tell. I dont know how long it has been like this, I only noticed it at the wkend when I had the engine cover off for something else. No lights have come on and the oil level hasnt dropped (although I did top it up slightly at the time). I have driven about 250 miles since I noticed without any problems and no loss in power.

I spoke to my local Saab dealer by phone and he reckoned it should be alright to drive as long as the oil levels dont start to drop.

Anyone else have this problem? Am I right to think that getting it fixed is going to be very expensive? and should it be ok to keep driving it until I get a warning light?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Glaice
How long has your repair lasted I have repaired mine as your thread and it seems to work fine(upto now)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
I bought a retaining bracket for 30quid which holds it in place. works brilliantly I can get them for you all too. just let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Mine has been fixed back on a few times so in the end I took it off and put no.s 1,2&4 in the open postion, no loss of performance, but they would close up again so my fix is;

Remove bar and smash off the plastic cup of no.3
Set 1,2&4 swirls in open postion then put super glue around them
Then superglue the bar back on to 1,2&4 so if on swirl bracks losse it wont move.
And for good mesure I left a spare 13mm or 15mm bolt between the bar and the cylinder head on no.1 the haed of which stops no.1 from moving.

This measn the acuator can move no.3 all it wants while the other remain open.

I know it souns crude but it has worked for about 7k and completed using what I could find on my lunch break at work!! I just cannot justify paying to have this fixed.

This with my other little mods (EGR blank and throttle removed) has given me a quicker car returning better mpg at 110k, then when I brought at 55k!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Right! Had lack of power under 1500rpm and when turbo kicked in it was holding back with my Saab 1.9 tid 150. So after getting well fed up with it and the Saab garage wanting to charge £1000's to repair it, I set about trying to sort this problem:-( Well started with the DPF which cost me £290 fitted but they broke the heat temp sensor doing it which cost £126 on top of that but it was still the same!:-( So stripped Egr valve and cleaned that which was very blocked up but still the same!:-( So cleaned Maf sensor and replaced Map sensor £56 but still the same!:-(So that's £472 spent so far! Well at this point I was ready to sell the thing!!:mad: Anyway after Googling other problems saab's have I came across this post for Swirl Flap Repair! So went to the parts shop and bought some 2 part glue and Number plate screw covers and bonded them on over night then fitted them the next day!:D:thumbsup: Maybe £5 was all that was needed! Anyway 250 miles today and felt great!! So I would like to say a big thanks to Glaice for a cheap great idea that works well:D
Hi,

There are a few threads on this already but I've never seen my particular fix, anyway..........

The fix I used for the swirl rod was to remove the rod from the car (obviously), this is made easier by removing glow plug leads 3 and 4 and using a piece of wire, like a metal coat hanger, bent into a hook.
At this point note the shape of the rod when removed as one side is slightly higher at the end (driver's side).
Give the rod a good clean, especially the plastic cups. Then give the cups a firm rub with some emery cloth or sandpaper to make them rough around the hole. Fill the holes up flush using a small piece of rolled up tissue or the like to stop the glue from getting in ( make it quite tight). I then used number plate caps from work (the kind like a little bowl with a snap over lid) with the lids removed, but B & Q do the same thing as a screw cap. These caps fit neatly around the plastic cups so when you fill the screw cap with glue and push it on it bonds around the side as well as the bottom of the cup on the rod. I used a bostik twin syringe type glue that set in one minute (rough handling 1 hour) and had the highest heat resistance I could find. Wipe off the excess glue but don't worry about it filling the hole in the cap.
After an hour I checked the caps were secure then used a small drill bit in my fingers to get through the glue that had come through the hole on the cap and get the tissue out of the cup.
After applying a small amount of grease or copaslip to the holes you're ready to re-fit the rod.
(Make sure all your swirl flaps are positioned the same as number 3.)
I found the easiest way to do this was to drop the rod back in place then use the wire hook to place it on the balls on top of the flaps then give it a good firm push with a longish screwdriver and WALLAH!
The rod can be a bit awkward to line up but a little patience and perseverance and you'll get it.
I came up with this after trying the rubber washers on the bottom of the cups fix which I couldn't get to work, they fell off as soon as I tried to refit the rod, and I've covered almost 8K miles with the caps with no problem, I've checked it a few times and it's still perfect.

I hope this helps and hasn't been too long, boring or complicated, it really is easy.


p.s. don't forget to put your glow plug leads back on!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,086 Posts
Hi,

There are a few threads on this already but I've never seen my particular fix, anyway..........

The fix I used for the swirl rod was to remove the rod from the car (obviously), this is made easier by removing glow plug leads 3 and 4 and using a piece of wire, like a metal coat hanger, bent into a hook.
At this point note the shape of the rod when removed as one side is slightly higher at the end (driver's side).
Give the rod a good clean, especially the plastic cups. Then give the cups a firm rub with some emery cloth or sandpaper to make them rough around the hole. Fill the holes up flush using a small piece of rolled up tissue or the like to stop the glue from getting in ( make it quite tight). I then used number plate caps from work (the kind like a little bowl with a snap over lid) with the lids removed, but B & Q do the same thing as a screw cap. These caps fit neatly around the plastic cups so when you fill the screw cap with glue and push it on it bonds around the side as well as the bottom of the cup on the rod. I used a bostik twin syringe type glue that set in one minute (rough handling 1 hour) and had the highest heat resistance I could find. Wipe off the excess glue but don't worry about it filling the hole in the cap.
After an hour I checked the caps were secure then used a small drill bit in my fingers to get through the glue that had come through the hole on the cap and get the tissue out of the cup.
After applying a small amount of grease or copaslip to the holes you're ready to re-fit the rod.
(Make sure all your swirl flaps are positioned the same as number 3.)
I found the easiest way to do this was to drop the rod back in place then use the wire hook to place it on the balls on top of the flaps then give it a good firm push with a longish screwdriver and WALLAH!
The rod can be a bit awkward to line up but a little patience and perseverance and you'll get it.
I came up with this after trying the rubber washers on the bottom of the cups fix which I couldn't get to work, they fell off as soon as I tried to refit the rod, and I've covered almost 8K miles with the caps with no problem, I've checked it a few times and it's still perfect.

I hope this helps and hasn't been too long, boring or complicated, it really is easy.


p.s. don't forget to put your glow plug leads back on!
good idea :thumbsup: why dont you put it in the how to section :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Hi, I too had a worn swirl bar and thought twice about repairing it as above . I looked on ebay and there were various people selling alloy and brass D.I.Y repair kits. I went for the guy in Telford who reconditions them his ebay name is i_love_vw_golfs and his service is headed Vauxhall swirl bar rod repair service ( same as the one on a Saab). The bar was sent to him and I got it back in 2 days. Fitted perfectly and his feedback on ebay was exceptional. The service costs about £24 and is well worth it. The cost of an inlet manifold and having it replaced will cost getting up for £1000 at a main agent and about £600 at a local garage.

Glynn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Hi lads
I too had the dreaded swirl flap bar falling off and did the cheap repair with the screw caps from B&Q, that was 15 months ago and no issues since, the car has been so much nicer to drive not to mention the MPG improvements, I did it as per the instructions found on here but used epoxy resin was a perfect fit had to apply quite a bit of pressure to pop it on but that means it won't come off.
I used a piece of string and some long handled fish disgorgers that I just had handy, made it easy as they clamp and lock onto the bar, fiddly but cheap and well worth the effort.

Regards Mick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
to doddy99....Hi iam in the same position as yourself and realise ur post is from 5years ago and was wondering if you ever resolved this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
High Glynn
Could you please tell me if it was easy to fix the bar in place when you got it back and how do you get the bar out. I have just found that my bar is off and one of the nylon lugs is broke.

Thanks Jasper
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,169 Posts
There is good info on the Vectra/Signum forum and also on youtube.

http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?184055-1-9-CDTi-Swirl-Flaps-What-Where-Why-and-How-Much&highlight=swirl
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cRzjMu9VdVE

Unfortunately in german but the video is easy to follow

Just search Z19DTH swirl

You will see how to remove the swirl bar both from the above and from the comments earlier in this thread

Depending how much damage there is you may get away with either the pot mod above or glue in the open position.

The only permanent fix is to change out the manifold as Nathan has said.

Perhaps post a pic of your broken lug? and its cylinder position?
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top