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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to remove the sump on my CSE to check/replace the big end bearings (and check the oil strainer while I'm at it). Any tips on the easiest way to do it without an engine hoist or support as shown in the manual?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's what I thought initially but the manual (Alldata) mentions unbolting the lower mounts and raising the engine. Perhaps this is for the B202 which I think might have had one of the mounting brackets on the sump?

I'll give it a try anyway. It can't be that hard... can it?

I might even consult Haynes...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Checked Haynes. That also says to unbolt the mounts and hoist the engine. Perhaps the long-block engines are different?

Oh, well. I have a number of things to check first and I'll only cross that particular bridge if I come to it.
 

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BillJ,

Could you give me some of your impressions about the AllData manual you refer to?

I know they have a program out now for an anuual membership with CD and website access (which makes a point about selecting the correct engine for your specific model).

Are the diagrams and procedures accurate (for a majority of DIY operations), or do they raise lots of questions like the one you are asking here for the oil sump?

I've got the Haynes manual and maybe 6-7 Saab manuals for my 92-9kT 5-speed, but always looking for good reference material.

Good luck on the sump!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Alldata subscription (I have a web subscription) seems very accurate. I know that a lot (possibly all?) of the information is gleaned from the Saab workshop manuals. Many of the diagrams are identical. It seems much better than Haynes and the electrical information especially is excellent. The reason I asked about removing the sump was because it seemed more complicated than I thought it might be. However, Haynes also recommends undoing the engine mounts and hoisting the engine so I suppose it must be correct.
 

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HI billj,
Did this on my Aero some monmths back. I can remember I didn't use an engine hoist, in fact my biggest problem was removing some of the awkward to get at bolts, something Haynes always say, 'remove bolts'!! I read the manual too. I may have jacked the engine up slightly when removing the sump, but that is all. I did remove the oil cooler pipes too, but with the flange so not disturbing the seals. I had broken the oil level sensor float!! Not much luck with my car this year..

Hope that helps, Feel free to call me if you get stuck.
 

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I've been racking my brains abou this, but have just remebered, i used a large crow bar at the front of the engine, near the o/s mount and levered in there to raise it about 2", and then used a pice of suitable wood to hold it. I know it sounds crude, but with rags around the ends of the bar and careful positioning nothing was even scrathed let alone damaged. With the sump loose you can gauge how much lift you need. The sump also has no gasket, and I assume from the factory is sealed with some silicone type. Mine doesn't weep at all, which is always a worry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll try it that way, then. The sump is sealed with a sealant, as you suspected. If you ever have to remove the timing cover, it's sealed the same way. The cover on my Aero doesn't leak either, after I removed and replaced it (with an anaerobic sealant) to do the timing chain.

Anaerobic is best, I believe, because it only hardens in the joint. If you get some in the engine it won't harden and block oil and coolant passages.
 

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Keep us informed how you get on, doesn't seem a common task. Good to here about the timing cover too, that's my next task when the cars been repaired, the chains are all original, and there is minor noise when cold, so guess I'd better invest.

merekat
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Originally posted by merekat:
[qb]Good to here about the timing cover too, that's my next task when the cars been repaired[/qb][/b]
I had the head off (well, fitted but not bolted down) and I'd say your best bet is if you've still got the head in place, get ready to remove the sump again. It's notoriously difficult to refit the timing cover with the head and sump in place without damaging the head gasket With the head loose and an assistant to lift it a bit, it wasn't too hard.
 
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