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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

Recently wrote this as an answer to a question on another Saab site and thought it might be of interest. Allthough directed at the 9-3 it is also applicable to the Classic 9-5.

No need to touch the subframe to do the sump. Unplug the lambda sensors, take off the turbo/exhaust manifold heat shield ( nut usually corroded such that the shield just lifts off ), 3 nuts on the exhaust/turbo joint ( might need to use 1/2" or even 12mm sockets on corroded nuts - should be 13mm ). Drop exhaust front pipe. You can just move it to the side but easier if you unhook the pipe further back so that you don't strain the flexy joint. You will have started by draining the oil while the engine was hot so now put the sump plug back in to stop the odd drips that always go in your ear !

Two 11mm bolts hold a little shield over the bottom quarter of flywheel. Now 16 13mm bolts hold the sump in place. The 4 at the O/S are awkward to get at so you need a selection of different 13mm spanners and small sockets to access. Sump will just pop off.

Now get a big wedge of wood and tap it down between the O/S side of the engine and the 'chassis leg' to move the block across by about 2cm. Sump will wiggle out.

4 small Torx bolts hold the baffle plate then 2 more retain the strainer. Wiggle / pull it out from the sump to see the strainer underneath. Also check out the 'pile' of debris lying on the bottom of the sump just under where it sits. Clean everything with paraffin and renew the 'O' ring. Also check the 'O' rings on the pipe that crosses the block below the crank - renew if in any doubt.

Wipe of any oil on the crankcase mating flange then apply a thin bead of suitable 'instant' gasket to the sump flange. I use 'Granville' High Temp Black instant gasket ( Oxygen sensor safe ). You have about 15 minutes working time to get the sump back in place. 16 bolts back in, torque to 22Nm. Reassemble, new oil filter, refill with oil and job done. I find that I can do it in about 2 hours if there aren't too many difficulties with the corroded nuts mentioned earlier.

Paul @ Kippen

If you have a 2000 model your sump might have the 'hidden' bolts at the flywheel end. On these models the sump is molded to come down level with the lower edge of the gearbox flange instead of having the little metal cover plate. Thus the 2 bolts in the middle of the end are invisible. There are molded marks in the sump showing the two parts that need to be knocked out to access these bolts. Knock these two sections out with a cold chisel ( I know, it seems wrong but there is no other way of doing it without taking the 'box out first - bl00dy crazy design ). Now you need a 'knuckle' joint to get a 3/8 drive 13mm socket onto it.

If you find that these 'knockouts' have already been removed you know that the sump has already been off so the job has probably already been done.

For 9-5 applicability I find it best to remove the upper engine mount so as to allow you to move the block a little in order to give enough 'wriggle room' to get the sump out.
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