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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, im new to the saab world and was enjoing my new 08 9-3 1.9tid 120bhp 8v and after readong up on here decided to give the egr a good clean and put some wynns dpf cleaner into a full tank. Its been running fine but now after 2 weeks the mpg has gone down to around 23/24! The engine has a slight note change and maybe a little lumpy on idle, she pulls and drives fine so I cant figure oit what could have caused thiz sudden decrease in the mpg. Any advice or help would be highly appreciated
Thanks
 

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Hello.
I also have a 120 diesel. What you describe is a particle filter re-gen; idle goes lumpy and fuel consumption plummets. Make sure you take it for 'spirited' drive once a week (motorway speeds for 20 mins or so). You will also notice that the whole exhaust system gets incredibly hot while it's doing the re-gen.
For the record I use Shell nitro diesel or BP ultimate diesel. My EGR was changed under warranty at around 30,000 miles. Still using the same one at 122,000 miles.
Cheers

Rick
 

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since you say you are new to saabs i will assume you dont know that the MPG display is only really meant as a per trip MPG calculator, you have to reset it by holding down the clr button on the steering wheel

so i would do this and then take it out on a test drive to see what its results are as a lot of the time the display will drop lower than normal if left over night etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks rickl and sianderson for your replies, I thought the car would only go into re-gen if u kept the rpms above 2500 and as I pretty much only do short trips back and for to work (about 8 miles each way) with traffic lights and stops I didnt think the car would would try a dpf re-gen?

Another note to mention is when I start the car from cold and let it idle for about 30 seconds the mpg goes down even though I havnt moved or pressed the acceleration pedal? Its been like this for a few days.

Could my swirl flap rod thingy (sorry for the lack of knowledge) be playing up or stuck and ppen and does the z19dt engine have the swirl flaps.
Sorry for all the questions and thanks again for the replies.

Might go for a longish drive later and im assuming I wear my lead boots for a "spirited drive"
 

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Welcome..modern diesels don't like short trips,DPF is like a self cleaning oven if it doesn't get hot enough it won't clean,it'll clog up with soot..8v don't have the swirl flaps..Don't know where you got the 2500rpms info from..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I thought I'd read somewhere that I needed to maintain rpm of 2500 for around 15 to 20 mins in order for the dpf to get hot enough for the re-gen!? So I could drive at 70mph in 6th gear for 20 mins and this should prompt a dpf clean? And hopefully bring back the 33-36mpg I was getting?
Is there a tell tale sign that the egr is no longer working as it should?
Thank all
 

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to try and make things easier to understand:) first of all G.M vehicles are renowned for the dpf to be placed further away in the exhaust system from the manifold than other manufactures so more heat needs to be generated at the dpf to give a successful regeneration. Although as with any modern diesel local runs where the vehicle only just reaches operating temperature will give issues fact, to try and compensate for this manufactures have and continually bring software updates out to try and compensate for this. the fact remains there will always be problems especially on vehicles use for school runs supermarket trips etc. Other issues are the EGR.

regeneration happens when the ecu tells the car to do so approx. every 300miles. When the happens the cars timing is altered slightly to allow extra fuel to be inserted, this will then enter the exhaust system which will burn and help in a regeneration of the dpf (soot burnt off). Great if your on a A road or motorway as the temperature within the exhaust will allow all this to happen over a set period of time. The problem arises if you are in a start stop situation such as around town when one takes place, if this happens the ecu will stop the regeneration process this will take place around 3 times if no successful is taken place after that it will not regenerate till the next given time. The problem if this was to happen the dpf gets fuller and fuller, the other all the extra unburnt fuel has to go somewhere and it ends up in the sump which will dilute the oil (losing its protection properties) and if its left to get so high theres a risk the engine will rev its bollocks off until destruction.

passive regeneration is when your going up and down the motorway say for a prolonged time the temperature with in the exhaust will become hot enough to partly cause the catalytic effect within the dpf to burn off some of the soot but not enough to fully clean hence above, kinda keeps things ticking over until that time.

forced regeneration is when the dpf is so full/blocked it requires manufacturer intervention to use diagnostic equipment to force a regeneration. criteria's have to be met before it will be done (no other faults) the diagnostic equipment will rev the engine up to a point of destruction lol and hold the revs there over a preset time and then bring them back normal over a time. This can or cannot be successful.

The 2500rpm you refer to is actually 2250rpm min hence 2500rpm or above travelling down say a motorway in 4th or 5th gear to keep speed in toe enabling control of the speed and hopefully a non stop journey or allowing the revs to fall below the preset given above for 20min or more depending on how blocked it is. This will cause the temperatures in the exhaust to become that high that you are trying to mimic a forced regeneration you could say. the engine will be under load and the egr will be shut as with the ecu based regeneration type. This can be very effective and often works although not quite as good as a forced one as the vehicle will be moving and not stationary hence more airflow (cooling).

additives are used to lower the temperature in which a regeneration will take place causing a higher burning temperature in the normal engine cycle. there good and bad ones out there that accomplish this. Archoil ar6400 is good and BG244. it also has to be said the way it is used will also have an overhaul effect on the way it does it. some companies will injexcrt it directly into the system rather than diluting it in the fuel.......its can be better sometimes to apply a high dose if diluting in fuel though read manufacturers instructions first
 

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just to add lol.......

it can be said @2250rpm +, there is sufficient heat generated in the system to enable a vehicle to carry out a passive regeneration. So your going down the motorway at legal speed in 6th gear the rpm will barley reach this point...I will leave you to work the rest out

there are other reasons that will prevent a regeneration taking place such has a faulty/dirty egr faulty thermostat temp sensor etc. for a regeneration to take place successfully....there are a lot of criteria's that need to be met by the ecu.

the engine also has to be at operating temperature
 

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My recco for passive regeneration: get to operating temperature, then a few quick spurts at full throttle from 30mph to 70/80. No need to drive for 30 mins at xxxx rpm. This will quickly get your dpf temp to circa 600+ degrees. WIS states 550 as the point at which the soot will combust. I've checked tested this with diagnostics plugged in to track the temp. A quick thrash like this now and again will do your dpf good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wow thank you kez I think I now understand what all the dpf b******s is about now and will try listen/feel when the regen is trying and go for a good drive. Just done a good motorway run and kept the revs high even though it feels wrong driving like that! Reset the mpg counter on the way back and its doing 49 on the motorway and 37 when I was driving through my town.
The exhaust was ticking away as I got out so hopefully the mpg stays like it now.
Thanks raj I will try do this every now n then on my trips back from work.
Thanks to all that helped.
One last question (sorry peeps) are there symptoms of a faulty egr? When I took mine off I couldn't depress the disc/valve/piston (whatever its called).
Is this normall or is it kaput
 
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