[Darryl Metcalfe]

Anyone have experience with replacement CV boots?

My front right boot is split, grease is leaking out, and I don't particularly want to remove the entire drive axle. As an alternate, I am going to fit an aftermarket split CV boot that can be glued closed (ie. no need to remove the drive axle). May not be the "right" way to do it, but considering the car has 325000km on it, it seems more practical.

Opinions? Will it last a reasonable amount of time?

 

[ms08]

Is it inner or outer - not a difficult job for the outer and slightly longer for the inner but no more difficult but you would need torque wrench that from memory has to go up to 200+lbs foot for the hub nut and circlip pliers ideally. Never tried the type of repair you suggest and would have thought the loads too great to last too long.

 

[StephenA]

Aren't the split types that glue shut designed as emergency repairs and not for long term running.

Frankly in the long run it would be cheaper to do it properly rather than risk it failing and you getting [expletive deleted] in there.

Steve

 

[gilbert]

I would say it depends on how long you are gioing to keep the car,short term i would use split ones,
longer use the 'proper' ones.
No point in doing the job twice ,but no doubt if you fit the split,s*ds law,it will last forever
G.

 

[Paul Anderson]

Vicrum,

Split boots work OK as long as you get everything spotless before even taking it out of the bag. The boot is just a standard, cut neatly along one of the casting lines and then stuck together with Superglue. If you keep ALL dust and grease off the rubber then they work well. I did one about 20 years ago ( yes I know, I was young and foolish ) on an Alfasud and it outlived the car. ( OK at least 3 years )

Another thing to note is that Superglue does go 'off' and only has a limited shelf life. It may be worth buying a fresh tube to do the job.

Paul @ Kippen

 

[Darryl Metcalfe]

Thanks.

I'll think I'll opt for the split boot and see how it holds out. Don't have a lot of time right now; due to the age of the car, I'm anticipating the removal of the hub nut to be a PITA.

ttfn

 

[DaveS]

Fitting a split boot is certainly easiest, but you don't need to remove the hub nut to fit a "proper" one.
Have a look at Quasi's site CV boots
I've done it and it is straightforward enough.

 

[billj]

Quasi's description is excellent as always. However, I found the driveshaft was so tight into the CV joint that it had to be hammered off with a soft-faced mallet, once I'd got past the circlip (I had to undo the hub nut and remove the entire driveshaft to do this). Then fitting the new joint (I was replacing the CV joint as well as the boot) also required some whacking with a hammer.

I'm pleased to hear they're not all as tight as that.

 

[DaveS]

I'm pleased to hear they're not all as tight as that.[/b]

They're not - both of mine just fell out when I released the circlip

 

[billj]

Originally posted by DaveS:
[qb]both of mine just fell out when I released the circlip      [/qb][/b]

Maybe it's only the Aero ones that are tight?

 

[Rod Orr]

I'm due for new CV boots too. Where did you find the split ones -- CT?
Thanks,
Rod. [in Edmonton]

 

[Derek]

When my wife's Subaru Justy needed a CV boot replaced I found that it required major dismantling since the shaft was not removable from the joint. I opted to fit a split rubber boot.
After a few months grease began to ooze from the glued join, not much but enough to show a greasy smear at each leaking point. I put it down to not getting the glue evenly spread at assembly and fitted another split boot being careful to make sure that the glue was applied properly. A few months later this one was also oozing glue I fixed it by thoroughly cleaning the rubber with cellulose thinners and applying a thin layer of Aquasure wader cement along the whole length of the seam. I would not recommend these split boots as a permanent repair.

When changing a CV boot on a 9000 I've always found it easiest to remove the complete hub and driveshaft assembly, release the clip on the inner spider and remove the inner boot with the spider, most of the grease remains inside it. Then remove the clips on the old boot, clean the shaft and fit the new boot. Finally re-assemble with fresh grease in the inner joint. Takes about 3/4 of an hour.

 

[ms08]

I read Quasi's site and still think it is no more difficult to take the shaft from the hub. Only thing is when I did mine was that I had to buy another torque wrench but can now do as many as I like. My worry would be in trying to keep the joint clean, something that can be done easily if the joint is out of the hub. Just my view.

Mike

 

[Darryl Metcalfe]

Originally posted by Rod'899kT:
[qb]Where did you find the split ones -- CT?  
Thanks,
Rod.  [in Edmonton] [/qb][/b]

Ordered them in from CT. $23.99.