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Discussion Starter #1
I finally found a car it’s not exactly what I originally wanted but for the money had to have it.

Needs a fair bit of TLC inside and out and a few mechanical bits and bobs its on 110k but it’s had a lot of parts replaced in the last couple of years.


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Managed to pressure wash the mats, wash the carpets and wipe all the trim down today, when its dry will get on with treating the leather and plastics then on with the body work.
Needs a lot of machine polishing then will see what parts of the car need painting few bits to touch up, dent on rear arch and scuff on the bumper will give the alloys a refurb too.

Apart from a through detailing I have some window tints to go in the back and it needs an auto dim rear mirror. Why the Aero’s don’t have all the toys is a joke :mad:
I might change the sat nav for an Android head unit at a later date add a rear spoiler and possibly a diffuser.

Mechanicals to do so far (not had a good look yet) Full service, coolant flush, rear disks and pads, change brake fluid and possibly a drive shaft boot has some grease on a rim but maybe it’s been done and not cleaned off as it was MOTd day before I collected it :confused: look at the gear linkage as it feels a little tight and the TPMS sensors need changing.
Will post up some pics as I progress :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah might do that can feel it if they are low wife wont be using it.
Do you need Tech 2 to turn it off I have an opcom but havent tried it yet.
£140 set 4 on ebay
 

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If you remove all 4 at the same time the cars ecu assumes you have just fitted your winter wheels and doesnt throw any fault codes/dash lights. No tech 2 needed. Do not store the removed sensors anywhere in the car though, they are battery powered and will give a dodgy reading to the reciever still
 

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For your stiff gear change, is the gear stick struggling to go to neutral itself? If so you're going to need this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Automotive/Sport-Stiff-Tower-Turret-Repair-55556311-Gearbox/B00T7NKDLW

My Dad's car has the same issue. A SAAB mechanic has used some grease to help free it up and it has improved a bit but it's no where near as good as on mine, and this will need done on his at some point. I've linked an instructional video below on how to remove and replace the failed/failing part. Hope that's of some help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ML3kfGvQHa4
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Kev probably just remove them then.

Kevdo thanks will check it out from memory it returns ok just feels a little tight might get away with grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got the inside finished today and got her washed off ready for some paint correction.
After moving it I jumped out with it running and noticed the exhaust blowing. When I had a look the pipe after the DPF was completely off. The clamp had been cut and not replaced. It recently had new Turbos and the DPF cleaned out guess they couldn’t be arsed to change the clamp or just cut the bolt off and replace it as any normal person would,

From a distance she doesn’t look too bad.

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Up close is a different matter

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It has a lot of tar and other contamanents on the paint too
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Will try get some done tomorrow if its dry :D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Only managed half a day today was -4 this morning :rolleyes:
Got it clayed and machined cut but didn’t get it 100% due to lack of time but it’s a huge improvement. Will touch a couple of scratches/chips in tomorrow will do until I can blow it in later when it’s warmer.
Still got a few bits to do by hand then will add a polish/sealer and give the alloys a quick polish. (I will paint them later)
No sun but you get the idea :cool:


IMG_3021.jpg IMG_3020.jpg
 

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Looking Good Richfr. I hate those swirl scuffs you only see in sunlight, it really bugs me but i'm too lazy to do anything about it. Actually that's not strictly true, it's more getting the time. Don't have the same time these days that I used to.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry for the slow updates weather has been crap. Got back side windows tinted but need to do them again got a fog under the film must still have some grease on the glass. Panel wipe on them before i do them again.
Hopefully get it washed again tomorrow take a few pics.

Want to get back wheels off pressure wash it underneath then change rear discs and pads clean callipers up etc looks a mess through the wheels.


Also have a seal on order for the oil pick up so the sump is coming off along with a load of other bits according to WIS.
Car has low oil pressure warning on the dash first start up of the day hopefully this will solve that.
Cheap fix but a lot of work to do it :rolleyes:

Got a 2016 Sat Nav DVD on order hopefully it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Crap weather again but got all 4 wheels off and pressure washed under the arches.
Changed the brake fluid never seen fluid that dark before almost black out of the fronts.

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Removed the two remaining TPMS from the wheels, not easy to get off had to chop the ends off from the inside with a chisel.

Back on the car and still have the error :( Does it take some time to go?


Sat Nav DVD arrived and that doesn’t work just get disk read error :( sending me another.


Tried to remove rear discs and I haven’t got any female torx bits everything on my Peugeot and previous Saabs have been male torx.

Have been sent the wrong rear pads anyway so couldn’t have changed them.


So not a lot done really :rolleyes:
 

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Comming along nicely .
Being a nosey what's his face me , what method did you use to change the brake fluid ? . Did you used a hand held sucker , or something of that ilk? Code I'm doing mine soon along with the discs and pads . So any pointers would come in handy . It's years since I've tinkered with a car .
 

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gunson eezibleed for your brakes, i did mine a while ago and its a good bit of kit.


Tpms error disappeared after less than a mile driving after removing my sensors
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Comming along nicely .
Being a nosey what's his face me , what method did you use to change the brake fluid ? . Did you used a hand held sucker , or something of that ilk? Code I'm doing mine soon along with the discs and pads . So any pointers would come in handy . It's years since I've tinkered with a car .
I just used 2 man system one holding pressure on the pedal while one opens the nipple. Once foot at the floor tighten then repeat :thumbsup:
 

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I got this , yet another bargain from that well known auction house.
It's a bi-sexual vacuum tester and break bleeder ? So it states , only usage will tell ,
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Had the satnav in bits today to clean the lazer properly wasnt sure the discs touch it as you cant select tracks.
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All back together and the new dvd still doesnt work lets hope the replacment does.

Then I flushed and replaced the coolant. Changed the air and cabin filter. Tried to change the fuel filter but I ordered the wrong one car is a 2010 but has the older canister filter.
Sorted the gear linkage who ever changed the clutch/flywheel had broken a loom clip and the wiring was pressing against the linkage. Hope that’s not the cause of the engine light didnt look damaged but nightmare to get at the loom there.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Quick update
I had a slight misfire at times and the EML light came on when driven hard. Had 2 codes come up in opcom.

Turns out the throttle body is knackered the gears are completely stripped inside it was seized solid.
The other was injector 2 no communication. The plug is damaged. Garage must have damaged it when they changed an injector seal got a receipt just before I got it, they have broken the connector then bent the pins in to try make a contact :mad:

How it drove so well with these two faults is crazy should go even better when fixed.

While it was in bits yesterday cleaned the EGR, EGR pipe and MAP sensor. EGR wasn’t bad at all but the pipe was fairly blocked as was the MAP sensor.

Today ordered a new throttle body, injector plug and some gearbox oil from Neo Brothers then fitted the rear discs/pads and cleaned the callipers up a bit.

Just waiting for the oil pick up seal hopefully that will arrive tomorrow then the sump is coming off :crazy:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Been one of those couple of weeks :( everything has going wrong at home, car, work etc.

Not had internet/phones for 9 days and no sign of them fixing it got a 3g+ box working at the moment.

Anyway the car, throttle body and injector wiring replaced, Fuel filter done, front pads changed and callipers cleaned up.

Sump off and cleaned out to replace the oil feed seal.
Found this in the sump :eek:


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On a plus side sump was very clean inside and since putting it back together no low oil pressure warnings the old seal was rock hard.
New Mobil 1 oil/filter, gear box oil and resealed the down pipe I am amazed at the crap work by the previous garage using old gaskets not cleaned up no washers bolts missing etc. had to raid my spares box for bolts washers they had not put back.

Intercooler had water in it but only the outlet side maybe it was washed with the pipework off or left in the rain god knows the inlet side was clean. Used a hair drier on the inlet and heat gun do dry it out. That’s probably what killed the throttle body gunk dropped into it.

Needed to remove the started to get the sump off it was a little noisy and on inspection was f**ked the bearing had failed so got a refurb unit.

Car now runs excellent loads more torque low down and power at the top no lights or codes.

Then today the driver’s drive shaft started knocking guess all the grease on the wheel rim means none left in the CV so will repack that tomorrow hopefully without removing the shaft.

A lot/Most of the problems with this car where caused by a crap garage/mechanic can’t believe they get away with it.
 
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