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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally sorted my washers! Believe me, it has been very alarming the last couple of weeks without them.

I got a new 2nd hand column switch from Neo Bros (good diagnosis someone btw.. Derek I think?), and that fixed it.

Oh, and I had to replace all the washer valves. And unblock all the jets

Also, while I was about it, I tightened the steering column adjuster (thanks BillJ!) and remounted the antennna for the immobiliser so it doesn't involve 2 minutes waving your keys around to deactivate it.

All I need now is new headlamp wipers - mine are almost non-existant!

One question though - the T-piece valve that is next to the fluid reserviour. Which way does it fit? Thinking of a T, if the two ends of the bar on the top, which are equivalent, are called A, and the base of the T is called B, where does B connect?

Is it 1) to the pump 2) to the headlamps or 3) to the screen jets?

Hope someone can have a look and tell me!

Thanks for all the help though. Next project - rear wiper
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ah thanks - that is how I did it. Seems to take a couple of seconds to prime, but I suppose that must be normal. It's still a heck of a lot better than nothing at all!
 

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Hi I have the same problem with the tee piece,when I took the old one off the right hand of the T went to resevoir, left to screenjets and base to headlamp washers. However trial and error will win out, with no damage just patience
 

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Originally posted by John Carlyle-Clarke:
[qb]Seems to take a couple of seconds to prime, but I suppose that must be normal.[/qb][/b]
It's not normal, but if either of the two valves under the nozzles on the bonnet is faulty, you will get this happening. They both need to be working properly, as I found out recently on my CSE.
 

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John,
The few seconds to prime may be due to defective non return valves just below the jets. I have had trouble with these in the past. They have a rubber diphragm which does the bizz. It is prone to perishing, especially if you use lots of winter screenwash. I found that it is possible open up the valves and make replacement parts from poly sheeting. A bit fiddly but worth it to stop the first swipe on a dry screen.

I think these valves also serve the function of equalizing the pressure to the windscreen and headlight jets due to their differing heights so you might find that the windscreen jets have greater flow with these valves fixed.

Paul @ Kippen
 

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Thanks for the tip about the one way valves below the screen jets. I now know what my next job is!

If my memory is correct, the T valve at the reservoir works as follows:

a) there is free passage of water across the top of the T in either direction. One end is attached to the pump, the other end goes to the screen jets.

B) the bottom of the T has a one way "anti dribble" valve fitted in it. This is to prevent water flowing out of the headlight washers when the reservoir is full and the fluid is higher than the headlights. The valve stays closed until you use the pump. The pumping pressure is enough to open the valve and allow fluid to the headlights. You should not be able to blow through the bottom of the T in either direction.

The life of the rubber diaphragm seems to be shortened by winter screen wash. I used a small piece cut from a latex surgical glove as a short term fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advice. Now that it has all "bedded in" as it were, the response is pretty quick - it certainly gets in on the first sweep of the wipers which is good enough for me.

Mark I think you are exactly right about the operation of the T valve. The valves (both types) cost me £1.85 each from GSF.

I am going there again today to try and figure which of the two headlamp wiper blade types they list is the right one!
 

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The life of the rubber diaphragm seems to be shortened by winter screen wash. I used a small piece cut from a latex surgical glove as a short term fix.  [/b]
Ah! I knew I'd find a use for those old latex surgical gloves
 

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Originally posted by John Carlyle-Clarke:
[qb]I am going there again today to try and figure which of the two headlamp wiper blade types they list is the right one! [/qb][/b]
I just went to Halfords, bought some of their cheap replacement rubbers (without the wiper bits) and cut them to length. Then crimped them onto the existing arms. Dunno about GSF's prices, but I saved a fortune on the Saab price. Here is what I did.
 

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I do much the same as Bill, except I use the old windcreen wiper blades- there's plenty of life left in them for clearing muck off your headlamps once they've ceased to be effective smear free windscreen wipers!!

What a cheapskate eh?
 

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Beware, the arms of the Tee are different! One has a brass insert with a small orifice in it, this one connects to the headlight washers. If you get then the wrong way round most of the flow goes to the headlights and much less to the screen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The base? Or one of the arms? Surely one of the arms, since the base has to be connected to the pump

I wonder if my "T" has this insert? Knowing my luck, this will be one of those things that is not in the non-genuine ones.
 

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I would like to clarify that the surgical glove fix was very much short term. It was either that or have the fluid dribble over my nice clean garage floor again. A GENUINE replacement valve was fitted as soon as one could be purchased.

So I refute any suggestions that I am a cheapskate. Although I did live in Aberdeen for quite some time, the extensive psychotherapy over a number of years has helped me learn to unlock my wallet in a normal fashion (i.e. now fitted with a combination lock rather than a Chubb).

Joking aside, I once attended a meeting of the legendary Aberdeen Sports Car Club (I was young and foolish). One person asked the members for advice about laying up his car for the winter. Instead of being given useful advice about changing the oil, or washing the underside and applying rust treatment, the local guru simply said "cash in the tax disc".
 

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Originally posted by BillJ:
[qb]I got mine from ECP, so they're probably not genuine [/qb][/b]
They probably are - the Saab ones are not very expensive. I am always amazed at the lengths people go to on this
 

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JohnCC,

I have just been out in the cold and dark, and ferreted around in the "might possibly be useful at some stage" Saab parts bin in my garage.

I retrieved my original valve, complete with latex glove part. It has a brass insert in the base of the T, which connects to the headlights. The little cap at the top of the T (which holds the anti dribble valve parts in) has a small hole in it.

I also retrieved a valve that I removed from a chum's car. This is identical to the new valve I purchased from the dealer. It has no brass insert, and no hole in the top.

I now wonder whether I should have put the brass insert into the new valve (it removes easily). Perhaps this explains the ample amount of fluid that comes up the bonnet from the headlamp washers.

The dealer did comment that they thought the new valves were a supercession as a result of problems with the original make.

To confirm, the main flow goes across the top of the T, the headlamp flow goes through the anti dribble valve and down the T base (all referenced to the T orientated as typed here).
 

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Originally posted by /john:
[qb]I am always amazed at the lengths people go to on this[/qb][/b]
I only bought them there because I was buying other stuff at the time. I wouldn't have paid however many quid for postage just to save 5p each on ten valves. I've bought them from Saab dealers in the past too and they weren't expensive there either. Neither did they have brass inserts
 
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