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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This a repost of a thread that I started on another board which no one responded to. If anyone could please help on any of these problems, I would be gratefull.

I've had this car on the road for a few weeks now and all is well, except a few minor annoyances with some trivial and not so trivial things. First of all, I try to do as much work as possible on it, and so far it hasn’t needed to go into the shop.

About 85% of the time the ABS light on the dash is on. Sometimes it flickers out, but it’s very inconsistent and annoying. I'm going to have to assume that the ABS is not working when the light is on. I’m leaning towards a sensor problem somewhere in the front wheel wells. Could anyone shed some light on this matter?

Sometimes the car starts up hard, takes longer to turn over than usual. When this happens, I look at my battery charge on the computer and its below 10 volts. No lights were left on that I can tell, what could be draining the battery, or am I leaning in the wrong direction yet again. Could it be starter related?

One of the lenses on the fog lights is cracked, I ordered Bosch replacement lenses, but low and behold, they are too small. Does the 1991 9000's need Hella lenses as someone recommended to me?

The previous owner installed Xenon head lights, but really did a doozy of a job, so now the whole right head light assembly appears to be not as tight as it should and can be moved by the slightest touch. Can anyone provide any hints on how to tighten them up?

The lights on the dash that indicate which door is open and closed, or ajar seem to be malfunctioning to some degree. The front passenger door light always indicates that it’s open. But when you actually open the door, it says it’s closed. Any chance on me fixing this?

The most right most rear portion of the trunk leaks water when it rains a lot. Any hints on how to seal this up?

Can anyone recommend good tires for all season use, I live in New England and we see our fair share of snow in the winter, but in the summer it’s really nice. The tires on it now will cut it for this winter, but I was hoping on getting some recommendations on some excellent all year tires.

If anyone could enlighten me or offer any advice I would be grateful. Thank you my fellow Saabers.
 

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Can't help with most of the problems, but as far as the starting goes, check that all the earth/ground lead connections from the battery are clean and uncorroded. Any rust or other corrosion will produce a high resistance and cause the engine to crank slowly. If the day is damp or humid then some dampness in the rust may improve improve conductivity and starting.

Could also be one cell on the battery beginning to die. You can check this with a squeezy "turkey baster" battery tester. Look for one of the six cells to have a lot less charge than the others. If a fault is found then you need a new battery.

If, on the other hand, poor starting occurs when engine is hot, I would check the starter motor. Last time I had this problem there was a build up of greasy dust from the brushes inside the motor. It seems that when hot the grease softened and the dust turned conductive and shorted out the motor. New brushes and a clean up fixed this.
 

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Jesse,
If and when you find the cause of your battery problem,please let me know,despite two replacement battery's and checking all earth points I still have the problem,sometimes I can leave the car for a week,and it will start as good as gold,other times two days will result in a flat battery.I have a gut feeling that it is down to the ff alarm,but cannot prove it.
I am baffled by your headlight problem,as there is no need to remove the light unit to fit bulbs,xenon or otherwise,check the three retaining screws are tight,there is one beneath the lens and two along the top.
Re your ABS.if the pedal pressure feels normal it is probably a sensor,if the pedal goes hard it is time to start calling you bank manager SIR.
Best of luck
Mike
 

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Another fairly common cause of ABS failure is the accumulator. To test it wait for about a minute after starting to let the accumulator charge. Then whilst staionary quickly pump the brake pedal a few times. If the ABS light comes on before about 4 pumps the accumulator is not holding enough charge.
The other thing you can do on your model (if you don't have TCS) is to retrieve the ABS fault codes. This is reasonably straight forward, you put a jumper into the diagnostic socket and the dash lights flash an error code. There are a few sites on the web with details on how to do this - Townsend is probably a good place to start.

As for the starting problem, does it read below 10 volts only after the extended cranking. If so then this may not be unusual. Corrosion on the main power lines as suggested by sgould is a good bet, but it may not be power related at all. Fuel delivery can also be a cause of slow starting due to the fuel lines emptying, the pump then needs to reprime the system before it will start.
 

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Jesse,
I have a problem with my ABS warning light, it comes on now and then i was told to stop and start to reset. I was also told that there is a pressure switch something similar to an oil pressure switch, that can go, replacing this can cure the problem, I hope someone with more knowledge of the system can enlighten you further.

HTH
 

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The previous owner installed Xenon head lights, but really did a doozy of a job, so now the whole right head light assembly appears to be not as tight as it should and can be moved by the slightest touch. Can anyone provide any hints on how to tighten them up?[/b]
The headlamps are attached via two hex screws at the top of the lamp and a bracket on the lower corner (opposite the grille). It sounds as though the previous owner has discarded the bracket under the assumption that the weight of the unit will keep it firmly secured against the lower cross member. Check this out, you should be able to get the part from a dealer or parts stockist at little expense.

I can sympathasise with someone for removing the headlamp in order to fit a new bulb, especially in a pre-1991 (facelift) car as the engine bay on these cars was much more crowded. My Carlsson had also been fitted with an after market alarm which had been placed no more than 30mm behind the drivers side headlamp, it was virtually impossible to remove the rear cover off the headlamp without tilting the headlamp unit forwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I tested the ABS as described by a previous reply, by starting the car and waiting one minute. Then I pressed the brake pedal down four times and the ABS light did NOT come on.

After further inspection it appears that all the retaining brackets (I counted three) were all present. But the screws on all of them were rusted and most likley snapped. I wish I had a diagram of the headlight fixture so I could see how its supposed to operate.
 

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Jesse,

Have you checked the ABS sensors? I had a similar problem on my 1990 9000i.

I measured the resistance of the sensors at the connectors. The left front sensor was 1.800 ohms, the other 3 approximately 1.060 ohms. I replaced the left front sensor and haven't seen the warning light since. To change the front weel sensor the wheel arch trim amd rear inner wheel arch liner has to be removed.

The front wheel sensor connectors are located behind the false bulkhead panel. The rear wheel sensor connectors are located under the rear seats.

It may be useful to clean the connectors and the sensors. Use electro cleaner for the connectors. Be careful with cleaning agents near the brakes. Use brake cleaner for cleaning the ABS sensor.

Best of luck,

JP
 
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