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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to replace a leaking selector shaft oil seal on my '96 Aero. Anyone done this? I know I need to remove the pin securing the linkage coupler to the shaft. Then what? Is it simple enough to hook the seal out with a screwdriver or something?

I assume it's fairly straightforward to drift the new one in.
 

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Bill, I haven't done this, but it looks as if a screwdriver would be very difficult. I have a 'special' screwdriver that might work - I heated the tip of a flat screwdrive and bent the very end of it 90º - the tip is now L- shaped. The actual tool that Saab has looks like it could be fabricated.
You'd need a piece of metal tubing with an inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the selector shaft. Then, using a flaring tool, put a slight flare at one end. The flared tool get pushed through to the back side of the seal, where the flare will catch the back and the seal can then be pulled through. The Saab flared tube is threaded at the opposite end so that a slide-hammer can be attached but I'm not sure if that is critical with this particular seal. The new seal just gets lubricated and pushed/tapped in....HTH
 

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I did this last year but with the gear box out of the car and the selector shaft removed. Was not difficult. Saab manual shows a collar that locks with a screw around the metal collar on the seal and can then be levered out along the shaft. I simply used a screwdriver resting in the seal collar and tapped with a hammer/levered against something (may have been wood) held against the casing. Came out easily but may not be good access still on the car. New seal pushed in easily with a socket as a drift but needs to go over the shaft.

Also had to replace the bellows since the leaking oil had caused it to swell and go soft. Seem to remember the bits were expensive, about £14 for the bellows and £8 for the seal but it saved the oil mess on the drive.

The taper pin was hard to remove, used a balljoint separator and had to replace since the threads were damaged (by previous onwer).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Still haven't got teh pin out, but have bought a balljoint separator (the "screw-directly-on-the-joint" type, not the "scissor" type) and modified it to not slip off the shaft nor off the end of the pin. Not tried it yet. I also have some freezer spray.
 

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Hi Bill
My David told me that Abbott had just rebuilt your gearbox prior to and again post the Goodwood incident.

Why didn't they replace it????

The Gearlever coupling is a B*****D to get off unless you are taking the gearbox out, if the seal is leaking you must change the coupling as it will have gone soft and when it finally goes the stick feels like you have lost all the gears.
And then you have to take it off again which is nice.
This all applies to the later coupling not the flat bit of rubber on earlier 9000's with four bolts on it which SAAB charge £40+ for in their innocence.. secondhand from Neos about £15
 

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Forgot about the gear lever rubber coupling, also replaced that although there was no indication before of poor gear selection. From Euro car parts, was not too expensive £15 ish. Was listed on their web site but had to describe to salesman since he had never sold any.

Have found from experience the easiest way to remove coupling is to slacken pinch bolt fastener then push gear lever forward so gear box and lever ends of shafts part. Then undo rubber coupling nuts and remove. Need to reset selector position though once new coupling is on. Before separating coupling/shafts, it will help re-alignment if you find which gear is used when the locking pin can be inserted at the bottom of the gear lever - I think the Haynes and Saab manuals differ - Saab reverse gear, I think I found 4th was right but check. Otherwise you spend an afternoon in and out of the car undoing/doing the pinch bolt whilst finding the position of the shafts that gives all 6 gears.

The "ball joint separator" is the type of tool used to remove the track rods ends. One end fits around the steering arm and the other applies force from a bolt to the nut end of the track rod to "break" the taper joint.

Can not remember if I used the scissor type or "screw directly on the joint" type of ball joint separator. Previously used this method on old British Leyland cars where they had a similar seal which only lasted one or two years. Freezer spray may not help since need to expand the shaft where the taper pin fits. Make sure you screw down on the threaded end of the pin so it is forced out the other way, keeping the nut on may help protect the threads.

The collar on the seal stands out of the seal locating hole, if the bellows is removed you should see it. The bellows should sit in this collar so the new seal should not be pushed in too far.

Robert's idea of a flared pipe may help removal of the old seal, the flared part sitting in the collar. The picture of the Saab sleeve special tool shows it sitting in half of the circumference of the seal collar and then clamping to the selector shaft with a screw. This sleeve is then levered back with a screwdriver pulling the selector rod and seal with it and out of the casing. This may be worth a try before applying the hammer/screwdriver brute force method since this destroys the "soft metal" collar and there is no going back.

Hope this helps.
 
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