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In a bid to stop upgrading I though I would tidy things up a little. My black cam cover needs repainted and I want a decent match for the original + I need to paint onto bare metal in some areas (undercoat?)
Anyone done this successfully? If so, what paint did you use?

While I'm at it, I'll redo the front wiper arms which are flaking. These seem to have a very matt/satin paint. Any ideas?

Cheers!
 

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I'm currently investigating doing the same on my cam cover but for different reasons. My MY04 9-5 Aero (due to penny pinching GM bean counters ) isn't painted at all, and at only 1 year old has a nice white furry look to it
It would seem the best route, in terms of a factory like finish, is to have it either stove enamelled or powder coated, but as yet I haven't determined which...
 

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Aeropilot - you'd be better off polishing it and applying a clear lacquer, no? I'm still tempted to do that to sort out my ratty looking cam cover, but I'd like a spare to work on really.
 

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Originally posted by JohnCC:
[qb]Aeropilot - you'd be better off polishing it and applying a clear lacquer, no?         I'm still tempted to do that to sort out my ratty looking cam cover, but I'd like a spare to work on really. [/qb][/b]
Not for me.....had plenty of problems in the past with polished and then lacquered alloy, which if you later get a crack/defect in the lacquer you get the furry oxidisation build up under the lacquer, meaning another restrip etc.....
 

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Do keep us posted on your project to tidy up the wipers, the paint on most 9k wipers I have seen is in poor condition.

Kevin Yankton has done some very polished cam covers, look at his website under Yankton tuning.

Saab City painted my exhaust manifold while on the car and it looked good for over many years. I gave it a light sand and brushed another coat of 1500 degreeF exhaust manifold paint (ended up carefully spraying into a pot, then brushing)and nine months on it still looks great.

So GOOD high temp paint might last on the cam cover. Good and the 'H' chains own brands do not belong in the same sentence.
 

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Hi all.

I recently refurbished my wipers. I started by rubbing down the rusty/flaking areas with wet and dry paper. Its easy to get a good smooth finish.

I used a grey primer undercoat and a satin black from Halfords. They do both in a small can size that was more than enough for several coats on all three wipers. In fact Dulux then took the cans and refurbished his wipers as well.

It must be 3 months ago that i painted them and there is no sign of rust or of any flaking paint.
 

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The paint for the engine components,as distinct from the exhaust,in particular the manifold,can be lower temperature rated than you would think.At least that is what a professional paint specialist told me at Beaulieu this weekend.Liking a "polished" look to a freshly gunked engine,I have,for years,resorted to a spray over of back to black with the residue wiped away.It actually worked quite well,once cured,but was obviously not the right way to go about it.Seeing some cans of Hycote clear gloss engine laquer on his stand I asked him if it was safe on a hot-running turbo engine,and he quickly floored me by asking me what temperature I thought my engine surfaces got to.Taking a blind stab by thinking of the different ratings on Halfords cans (and how my hands feel when I accidentally touch something!!),I guessed at 200 degrees, and he replied that if my engine ran that hot then I was in serious trouble.The casings,he proposed,were more like 120 degrees,and that is well below the Halfords rating for very high temperature paint.Please don't attack me,I am only passing on what he said,and,as I have known about him for some years in the refinishing trade,I guess he should be listened to.The point is that it may be possible to avoid those horrible matt finish paints that invariably come at the higher ratings,and settle for the glossier ranges further down the scale.If you are looking for a satin-gloss finish for hot engine components, in black ,then you might like to consider "Pot Black",designed for air cooled motor cycle barrels.(you can get this in Halfords too)
Jeff
 

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I repainted both cam-cover and wiper arms, after good rubdown I used Halfords grey primer then their Satin Black,used a little fine wet and dry on the cam-cover numerals and they look great,and that was over a year ago.
mike
 

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Agreed on the temperature thing. I did rocker covers on a Ford V6 once with engine paint, and was advised to bake them in the oven at home for 1/2 hour (oh yeah, my wife loved that) otherwise the paint would never cure and would keep coming off on your hands etc. That did the job, but probably a lower temp paint would be best.

The nicest looking job would probably be powder coating, which should deal with the temperature no problem but that don't come cheap.
 

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I think you were right first time. 120 deg C sounds about right for the top of the engine with a pressurised cooling system.

120 deg C = 248 deg F. You were halfway between the two numbers, so take your pick!!
 

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I've measured the temperature of the cam cover today after a gentle run and a few minutes of idleing to let the temp. rise.

The result was 103 degrees Celcius at its' maximum (above the exhaust manifold) with much of the cover nearer 90.

Nick.
 

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Half way between the two? Then I'll go with you Sgould,as you obviously know what you're talking about (unlike me!).Seriously I think I was talking farenheit when I ventured 200 deg.,and that equates fairly well,as a lucky guess, with Cdcarlsson's practical test (200 deg.F = 88 deg.C,pretty close to the average 90 deg.+ he recorded on his cam cover)The pro. obviously replied in Centigrade when he ventured a max of 120 deg.as the hottest spot on an external engine surface. Anyway,these figures should give an indication of the heat range to look for when buying a suitable paint,there is,apparently,no need to go for the more extreme when choosing.Sprayed,smooth finish,Hammerite I have found to be effective for starter motors and other ancilleries.It requires no undercoat. (which of course would also have to be heatproof)I cannot vouch for it on much hotter surfaces,although I have used it on rear exhaust sections and tail pipes O.K
 
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