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I’ve been keeping our 12/1997 Saab 900s going for years now. The alternator is a 98’ (some parts could be from either a 97 or 98, thanks GM! The latest issue started when the top won’t close without 2 people guiding it up/down, then all the windows won’t raise unless you pull on them. Noticed the Rear Fog Light indicator on the dash is dim and gets brighter when I “try” to raise a window. The Rear fog lights are dim without the switch on. I removed the lamps and the car won’t start. Also the engine cooling fan doesn’t kick on for either speed, but I can Hotwire both relays and it works. No engine fault codes or issues indicate on my cheap scan tool. Just the typical “check brake lights” Checked battery cables and the grounds under the hood, reseated the ICE module connector.... I’m fairly good with electronics, seems like there is a common open ground for all the symptoms, but no schematic. Help!
 

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Almost forgot the car will barely idle when cold, dies when he pedal is touched, dies when put into reverse with clutch pushed in.
I can rev it without dying after it warms up and before it overheats (manual trans) it will reverse but needs a high rev and alot of clutch burning. It drives but very weak power. Any window or the Conv top switch kills the motor at all engine speeds, but doesn’t do it from the high beams or cabin fan. The dash doesn’t indicate the engine temperature or overheating. The OBDII scan tools shows the temperature perfectly in real time. The power issues started a month before the idle/cooling fan issue, don’t drive it much but it seems to be all related.
 

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With the list of issues you are having it is hard to know were to start, I suggest you pick something easy to diognose, ie the rear fog lights and try to work out what is wrong with them, if you are lucky it may lead you to the root cause of all of your issues, good luck.
 

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Almost forgot the car will barely idle when cold, dies when he pedal is touched, dies when put into reverse with clutch pushed in.
I can rev it without dying after it warms up and before it overheats (manual trans) it will reverse but needs a high rev and alot of clutch burning. It drives but very weak power. Any window or the Conv top switch kills the motor at all engine speeds, but doesn’t do it from the high beams or cabin fan. The dash doesn’t indicate the engine temperature or overheating. The OBDII scan tools shows the temperature perfectly in real time. The power issues started a month before the idle/cooling fan issue, don’t drive it much but it seems to be all related.
On the cooling issue...
Remove both the low and high fan relays in the under-hood fuse box (near the radiator tank) and bench-test them. If they're both good, while looking at the upper radiator return hose...(where it attaches to the cylinder head), you'll see a small bronze-colored coolant temp sensor with two wires. Ninety percent of the time, that sensor is the issue. It sends a signal to DICE for the fan signal. The sensor is usually abut $14-18. On the idle issue....check all hoses for vacuum leaks.
On the fog light killing the engine.....check to make sure you have the right bulb type. If the bulb is incorrect the resulting short can cause a BUS fault and pull the voltages to a point the ECU will stop working.
Though two different BUS the intersection is in the main instrument unit and it also has information from the lights monitoring relay in the forward fusebox.
The hard to move may be clutch related. How many miles?
 
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