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Re: speedparts stg2 installed!!

ahh...and also, i couldn't seem to push it enough to get the stock gauge into the red? i never could get it there with the mbc, even when i was showing 15psi on my boost gauge...thoughts? i know that it might be ridiculous, but i was really looking forward to seeing the gauge in the red!...althoguh i know that all of the stock gauges can/will report differently..

thanks
 

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Hi
any experiences with adaptation?  [/b]
Yes I had a few.I recently upgraded my 9-5 with a Speedparts stage one and like you say it is very hard to get the range and speed up enough to do the adaption run properly and I tried to cheat with only a half hearted run that did cause a few minor problems (not running right/stalling/hessitating).So in the end I pulled my ECU fuse for a few minutes to re-set it and took my car to a motorway to do the proper adaption run.After the adaption run was carried out correctly the car ran like a dream with more power than ever before

I would say pull your fuse and do the adaption as it says it needs to be done,it is worth it for the extra oomph factor
 

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Yeah, redo your adaptation properly! I also had to do it twice, and man, what a dif b/w those two times.

Congrats on your ECU!
 

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There is absolutely no need to pull the fuse before an adaptation run. The ECU is constantly monitoring and adapting as you drive. The main thing for the adaptation run is to get in a gear tall enough to be at sustained WOT for at least 5 seconds or more. I suggest at least 4th gear, but that would get you guys in the States in trouble quite quickly!

And also, ericl, the spool up will improve considerably with the viggen intercooler and a 3" downpipe. If you do not have these items installed, I recommend you do so very soon. The intake temps will be rising significantly leading to the possibility of detonation. If this is happening, the ECU will adjust the boost down to a safe level. The viggen intercooler will help fix this. Also, If you have not done it already, you need a big downpipe when trying to get so much boost. The EGTs will rise greatly when trying to push so much boost and lead to eventual, possible turbo failure due to extreme heat levels. A larger downpipe helps to evacuate all the heat.

And this last comment is not meant as a insult or anything like it, but I really wish people would do the necessary stage 2 and up mods before the ECU so that the car is properly prepared for the boost increase. I am not saying anything will happen but the possibility is greater.

Good luck!
 

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The difference between stage 1, 2, 3, etc. is mostly in the hardware that is used. When started with a stage 1 chip, adding the downpipe, sportexhaust, Viggen intercooler and air intake will take performance levels to around 250 bhp.

Don't forget to do the cheap mods, like smoothening the lip on the throttlebody transition casting and removing the turbo discharge silencer on the stock intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the input...i am going to drive west out of the city (i live in washington d.c. US) to see if i can't complete a few good 'adaptation runs' today, and weather permitting, install the viggen IC later.... i would have liked to go for the downpipe and stg3 programming (as i understand it stg1/2 is the same), but my bank account didn't permit right now...:) maybe later, after some suspension mods...i think i am going to spring for the KIC brace and poly bushings next to tighten up the front end a bit. i have been told that there is a possibility of a price break, much like maptun, when upgrading from a stg1/2 to stg3 with speedparts....

thanks for the concern on backpressure and heat, but i am hoping that i will be fine for now, i have the following mods...

*btw- what kind of hp gains can i expect to see if i throw on the new speedparts sticker?..:)

ericl
96 900SET
saab 9-3 SS sport exhaust
TBTC porting
airbox 'funnel' mod
k/n air filter
discharge silencer removal
SAS rear sway
speedparts stg2

soon:

3" intake mod
viggen IC
KIC brace
poly bushings
 

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Sorry about the speech. I wasn't thinking that the Speedparts Stage2 matched the current mods you have.

Have fun!
 

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What is an adaption run. I thought it was a straight swap and away you go[/b]
You get the ECU to reset itself by keeping the engine in the 3,500-4,000 revs range in as high a gear as possible while adhering to local road laws &c. for approx 5 seconds. Do this 2 or 3 times to be sure.
 

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Don't forget to do the cheap mods, like smoothening the lip on the throttlebody transition casting and removing the turbo discharge silencer on the stock intercooler.[/b]
Hi there!
Where is this turbo silencer ( disharge removal ), which you and ericl are talking about ?
Can't send you a picture, but at http://www.thesaabsite.com/images/95intercooler.JPG is the picture of 95 intercooler. Can you point the right place for me pls.

Tried to translate in Finnish the ("the lip on the throttlebody transition casting") too, but no such luck... couldn't understand where/what it is...

Thanks.

Saabisti2 at [email protected]
 

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On cars without a Viggen spec intercooler, it is in the pipe between the turbo compressor discharge and the intercooler itself. Just undo the clamps, pull out the pipe and you will see a plastic piece inside. This is the silencer. Just use a pliers to rip it out. It may or may not come out in one piece, so be sure to get everything out of the pipe before you reinstall it.

As for the throttle body transition piece, it is the metal elbow in the intake system that guide the air into the throttle body. Loosen the clamps on the rubber hose that leads to it and remove the hose. You will see a squared off lip that definitely interferes with good airflow. To smotth this lip out, you need to completely remove the piece from the engine. This is done by removeing the hose, and then removing two bolts at the throttle body. Make sure that you remove the plug from the air temp sensor and remove the sensor. be careful to not damage the gasket for the sensor. After you have the piece removed, bore out and smooth the leading edge of the piece with a Dremel tool or a drill with a small drum sander bit. Then clean everything carefully and reinstall.

Your engine's power delivery will fell much smoother after these two mods. There will not be a large, seat of the pants feel of power improvement though. But remember that every breathing mod on an engine helps.

Good luck!
 

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saabisti2 - It is inside part 3 pictured below.


And here is a picture of the lip that needs to be ground.


Eric
 

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Originally posted by SteveN:
[qb]  QUOTE
What is an adaption run. I thought it was a straight swap and away you go[/b]
You get the ECU to reset itself by keeping the engine in the 3,500-4,000 revs range in as high a gear as possible while adhering to local road laws &c. for approx 5 seconds. Do this 2 or 3 times to be sure. [/qb][/b][/quote]The ECU will also adapt during driving, but an "enhanced" ECU will take some aggressive driving to make it work out the safe limits of your particular car. It will start out quite tame and each time you push it hard, it will "push the envelope" (as we American Corporate types would say
) a little more, eventually calibrating itself for all the sensors and reaching (hopefully) its programmed power output without having broken something in the meantime (which might otherwise happen due to poor fuel, etc.)

In the words of a friend from your part of the world, take it out and "drive it like you stole it".

Having said all that, I prefer to do the proper adaptation. If your car is Trionic 5, this adaptation procedure, written for the 9000, should be the same for your car.
 

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Originally posted by Mark(9KAbbott_Stg3    ):
[qb]  QUOTE
drive it like you stole it[/b]
Or indeed, drive it like it's a hire car [/qb][/b][/quote]Indeed. At one of the track days I attended at Goodwood, one guy's car wasn't able to make it, so his friends persuaded him to hire a car instead. I think it was an Astra (could have been a Micra) and he thrashed it round the track


I think it was one of Tandino's friends...
 
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