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Re: Guide to fitting springs and Koni shocks

Can you dig up those torque settings for us Bill? I am going to get into this job this weekend. Hopefully all will go well. Did you only use handtools? I can't imagine any bolts sticking with a gun full of air in my hands.

-Scott
 

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Hi, Scott.

Torque settings are:

Hub-to-strut bolts: 65 Nm (48 lbft) (lubricated/waxed nut), 91 Nm (67 lbft) (unlubricated nut).
I assume a new nut will be lubricated, whle an old one won't.

Damper top nut (standard Sachs unit): 75 Nm (55 lbft)

Top mount bolts: 47 Nm (35 lbft)


Yes, I had hand tools only. I hope your power tools do the job, but my Saab dealer reckoned that the siezed bolts would be a big job to remove, even for them. There is a good length of bolt to sieze. Sometime later, I bought two new bolts and nuts and tackled the job. I found that undoing the nut until it was flush with the end of the bolt, then putting a large turning force on the head of the bolt with a long bar and whacking the nut with a hammer allowed the bolt to turn a bit and to move through slightly. Repeating this for some time eventually freed it. I found that this only worked if the turning force was anti-clockwise. A clockwise force (which seemed easier on one of the sides) yielded no progress and eventually led to a sheared bolt, whereupon I had to get my drill out.


A bit of heat and/or some dismantling lubricant might help too. I used Plus-Gas. I believe you have a similar product over there called "Liquid Wrench"?

You might be lucky and find the bolts haven't siezed. They were the top two on mine and I've seen the job done on another 9000 and one of the top bolts was siezed on that too.
 
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