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Re: Aero - boost and shocks....

Welcome to SaabScene

The SAAB boost gauge was never meant to be too accurate: they didn't want folk worying about where the needle went too much. You should be getting around 1.2 bar peak, falling back to about 1.0 bar on the Aero. Best way to measure is get a calibrated boost gauge. I just plug mine into the diagnostic nipple on the back of the inlet manifold and then run the hose into the car to check things every so often.
 

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Welcome!!

The boost gauge should go partly into the red, so it sounds as though yours isn't quite getting there, but it does sound as though it's getting slightly higher than base boost.

Things to check:
See if there are any vacuum leaks in any of the various pipes joining the turbo bits and pieces together.

Make sure the wastegate actuator rod on the turbo hasn't become disconnected. There is a small clip holding it in place, and it can break/rust through causing it to drop off meaning the turbo only ever gives base boost.

The turbo bypass control valve solenoid doo-dah (lots of people use different names for it) that sits on top of the radiator, and has 3 hoses going to it. This solemoid is known to fail (mine did some time back). Check that all the hoses to it are connected properly (i.e. no leaks - see above!) and that the power connector is... err.. connected! If you can swap in a known working one it will tell you if there's a problem or not, also check the www.townsendimports.com website

There's probably other things as well - oh yes, check the diaphragm in the dump valve.

I'm sure there are other things I've missed, but these are all pretty simple things

This site should also point you to places for help/info on how to check these things.

http://www.saabcentral.com/techhelp/9000_index.php

Good luck!

Ben.
 

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ok - thats a great list of things to check, I'll have good look around at the weekend. One other thing that may be relevant is that I actually only checked the boost carefully before I bought the car (its been driven by my girlfriend since!) - It must have been about 30 deg. C and it was running std unleaded, so I'll give it a good further check (always entertaining) on Optimax and in the now cooler weather and see what it says....although not sure how much of a difference that would make.
 

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Sounds like a reference to Aero gearbox failures described here. Rest assured that it's not as common as it sounds, despite my rather highly-tuned Aero breaking the gearbox in various different ways that I haven't come across in a standard or even quite-modified Aero.
 

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yep - I was referring to the large number of posts on gearbox issues/destruction - every change to third is now analysed in great detail (I'm sure I'll get over it!!). The car feels nice and tight and has been driven by someone with no interest in it (or in driving fast), and appears to have been seen to quite well at SAAB main dealer.
Looking forward to changing the rear shocks...read up on potential issues thankfully before starting the job on a Monday night for Tuesday driving....
 

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changing the rear shocks ..
its either the easiest job in the world or a complete pia
the problem area is the through bolt that ties the shocker to the ar bar and rear swing arm
if this is free then your home free
if it is stuck..you will have to resort to severe means to get it off
I ended up getting it burnt off !!
but a lump hammer often gets it moving
Settings..
I put two turns on mine as I did not want t keep taking them off to adjust them for track days
seems to work pretty well
imho its the front settings that seem to dictate ride comfort

good luck

ps the way to do it is on bill j 9000 site at the bottom of the page ...
 

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Cheers folks - seems all my questions answered already! Will report back my findings in due course.
PS - also bought those little ARB bushes from Abbot for the rear( based on lots of positive chat on that area) so I'll whack those on whilst doing the shocks. They look easy and I may need to remove the rear ARB anyway if things go pear shaped with the shocks. ylee coyote - going for 1.5 turns based on little chance of a track day for me.
 

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Originally posted by SteveN:
[qb]Welcome to SaabScene    

The SAAB boost gauge was never meant to be too accurate: they didn't want folk worying about where the needle went too much. You should be getting around 1.2 bar peak, falling back to about 1.0 bar on the Aero. Best way to measure is get a calibrated boost gauge. I just plug mine into the diagnostic nipple on the back of the inlet manifold and then run the hose into the car to check things every so often. [/qb][/b]
Guys, just looking through this, where can I get one of those 'plug in' boost gauges from, any recommendations? Just for the once in a while check..?
 

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hi - yes, I would be keen to know a good source of gauge. Any info much appreciated...

Didnt get a chance to have a look at the turbo questions this weekend but did drive the car 1000miles which gave me time to 'experiment'...

1) Basically, the car will only boost to the top of the yellow boost area on the gauge (and never goes into the red and yellow hatched area, nevermind the red.) I know I have things to check, but it certainly power wise feels like more than I would expect 'base boost' to be - or can the cars still 'shift' on base boost alone? (aero). - I will check the link rod/R clip as soon as I get a moment.

2) I ran the car on Premium unleaded (95ron) and under full throttle, the engine would shudder for a moment and I am almost certain that the boost would fluctuate. Changed to super 97 (BP not Optimax) and the car stopped doing this. At the moment it could be complete coincidence and I would have thought control of lower octane fuel would be more subtle? - I'm concerned it could be something more worrying.. I note that the DI pack is mentioned in other links (although I'm not sure what it is yet!)

Any other experience appreciated! - and I can add checks to my lengthening list....
 
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