[California Saab Tuner]

Re: 87 9000T needs 2 be faster Quick

I don't know what you'd do to beat one of the new Accords. I don't really like them personally, but they are quick. I guess no one will bother believing me if I say I pulled one in the Viggen on a very hot day with a passenger. lol SO I won't argue that, not the point of this thread anyway. That's how I know they're quick though. It wasn't by much. A 9000 turbo running a 14 second quarter though? Wow. Hey that's already quick. That Accord shouldn't even be running below 15.2 or so. The 9000 should be whoopin' on him pretty good if it's running 14's. I'm wondering though, for a one night stand at high horses? I would personally be scared to crank up the boost on someone else's car period. :S I mean if you break something, lol, Saabs aren't a cheap fix by any means. Honestly, while you could take off the air cleaner for a few minutes on a clean road, or disconnect the muffler on private property for maybe an extra couple horses, my best advice would be to take the $20 and invest it towrds your own car that you can modify till you're green in the face. :-D And acutally if that accord is keeping with a 14 second car, I'd ask him to pop the hood personally. The car I saw was quick, but maaaan ... not that quick. Anyway, maybe someone else has a trick up their sleeve for that car. Hopefully they'll give you a tip soon enough.

 

[mark e]

Drive it off the edge of a cliff- then it'll pull a pretty constant 1G! There's not much will out accelerate that...

 

[James]

Maaaaaaaan, you need NOS, Duuuuuuuude

 

[billj]

Adrian, a Viggen has a hugely wide torque band compared to a 240hp normally-aspirated engine, which counts for an awful lot, so I certainly believe you. What I want to know is why you didn't beat him by more - you must have been having an off-day

Originally posted by Adrian W:
[qb]I'm wondering though, for a one night stand at high horses?  I would personally be scared to crank up the boost on someone else's car period.[/qb][/b]

That would be my worry too. Perhaps all BoostyFox needs to do is practice getting it off the line (not always the easiest in a 9000). Lower the tyre pressures a bit at the front. That may help traction. If the front wishbone bushes are worn (if they haven't been replaced recently, they will be), then replace them for better traction (only about US$15 each and easy to do).

BoostyFox, perhaps all you need is better low-down response. If the boost controller is a simple bleed valve, try winding the wastegate actuator in a bit for better response (less lag), then adjusting the valve to suit. There are APC tweaks that can be done, but I'm not too familiar with them. APC experts...?

I'd say that if you only want a single fast run, you could get hold of a 3 bar fuel pressure regulator and fit it (I think the '87 has a 2.5 bar regulator as standard). Do this just before the race and remove it just after. It will probably make the car run rich at part-throttle and risk damaging the cylinder bores through bore-wash, but will allow you to run higher boost without detonation. Drive it gently at part-throttle - during the race you'll be running at full-throttle most of the time (or you haven't got a chance anyway). The over-pressure switch on the 87 is, I believe, under the dash somewhere. Sorry I can't be more specific. You need to remove the connectors from it and connect them together.

Remember that a new engine for your friend's car will cost you a lot more than $300. To be honest, a decent weight reduction and opening up the intake, as well as removing the AC belt should help quite a bit. I expect the Honda driver will be doing some mods in the meantime too.

Look under his bonnet (sorry, hood) before the race. If he's fitted nitrous or a turbo, give him the $300 and don't risk having to pay out for your friend's engine too

 

[steisan]

All the advices you have had about prudence tuning the boost on someone's else car are good and well stated, and I have to agree with them.
Anyway, since that car isn't mine , and this info can be useful to many people here as well as you, it's fair to tell you how to get rid of the fue cut off.
Above the driver's feet, under the kickpanel, near the APC ECU and other things, there'a a round cream-and-red rounded thing, with a vacuum line and a couple of wires, and a screw. It's the cut-off limiter. If you turn the screw in the middle of it clockwise, you'll increase the boost it will cut fuel at (stock is about 14psi). If you are in the mood to blow the engine, you can splice the two wires toghether and get rid completely of the cut off.

If you need, I can find pics and links to explain better, but it should be already clear.

One last thing: I want no responsability about blown engines or such! what you do with your cars is just businnes of yours!

Hope this helps.

 

[California Saab Tuner]

I didn't beat that accord by as much as I would have liked because most of the race was in 2nd gear and I only have 12 psi of boost! That and it was 98 degrees outside which gives my turbo car a distict disadvantage, and I had a passenger. I suppose though, that from a near dead stop, he floored it in first gear I kept it in 2nd, and I started about two car lengths behind him. I was just suprised when I shifted between 2nd and 3rd that I wasn't stomping the living daylights out of him. But soon as I hit third he got promptly walked. Shame the onramp to the freeway wasn't longer. *sigh* Such is life. OH and I DID say that my hp is as low as 200 on very hot days even with the g-tech, which would be about right for spanking a 240 hp accord wouldn't you say? Maybe? At least that sounds reasonable.