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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I have a 1994 9000 CSE Turbo Auto, I've lowered it, added a bridge spoiler, added alloys, full stainless steel exhaust from the cat back, also fitted a bleed valve on the turbo to get that extra boost.

It's all been working fine until about a week or so ago when I noticed that when first pulling off, there isn't much power, totally different story when I'm going. It's probably about 2000 RPM when the power really kicks in. Used to have power straight from putting my foot down.

Anyone got any ideas how I can sort this out? I've replaced the spark plugs as noticed one was split, but made no odds.

What spark plugs would you recommend? I've used Champion EON1's as only ones I could get from the local shop.

Also having a CAT bypass fitted on Monday, anyone got any ideas to how much additional power I would get from having it done?

Thanks
 

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Hi Rich,

First of all you MUST change your spark plugs straight away for the correct NGK BCPR7ES11. Any others do cause driveability problems and have been known to damage DI cartridges .

So much of the Trionic system is dependent upon the right spark plugs and an intact DI cartridge that you need to make sure they're OK before looking for other things. If the problem still persists after you've got the right plugs, I would try a known good DI cartridge and then take it from there. If yours is the original then I'm afraid it's certainly of an age when failure can be expected.

It's not unusual with turbos for them not to really get going until above 2000rpm, although if you say it's not as good as before there may be something else afoot.

A cat bypass will add a little bit to top end power but most significantly will reduce back pressure and thus spool up times, meaning the turbo will kick in quicker. However, I'd be tempted to put off your cat replacement until you get the boost problem fixed.

You don't say whether it's an LPT or FPT. If it's an FPT I'd be wary of winding up the boost too far or you'll soon find your autobox is history


Similarly if it's an LPT, and doesn't have an APC solenoid sitting on the passenger side of the radiator, you shouldn't increase it too much as there is no APC to reduce boost in the event of knocking.

Sorry, that's an awful lot of negatives, isn't it. Anyway, good luck and do let us know how you get on
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Mark, think I'll be taking a trip to get some proper plugs first thing tomorrow.

It's and LPT with an APC solenoid, sorry forgot to mention that, I haven't increased the boost to much it goes up to just below the red at times (at hard acceleration), but then sits prob about 3/4 in the yellow. If you hadn't guessed I've had a turbo gauge put in. Think its nice to know how the old turbo is working

I'll get those plugs in, see how it goes, if no good my uncle also has the same car, but a late 93 so will try his DI cartridge.

Thanks again

Rich
 

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25 what? The recommended gap is 1.1mm, hence the designation BCPR7ES11. In thou that's about 43...

Or in other words, if you buy the specified plugs, you don't need to re-gap them . NGK BCPR7ES are available from other suppliers, but will need gapping to 1.1mm
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not sure what the measurement is in, was just using my fila-gauges, converted to mm's it's about 1mm, only know as just measured it against a ruler, he he....

I'll be taking a trip to a few shops to get the plugs, being as it's Sunday I'll prob end up at Halfords or somewhere simular.

Thanks again Mark.

Cheers,

Rich
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Changed the plugs to NGK and tried another DI cart, but no difference. The turbo used to whistle nicely before even at low revs, but now I've noticed there's no whistle, not sure how long it's been gone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi again all, sorry to bring this subject back to life. Replaced a few things on my CSE to try get rid of the turbo lagg, it's helped, but not as much as I'd thought.

As you can see from the above posts I've replaced the plugs and DI cart, also replaced the air filter with a JR one and a forged dump valve.

Any ideas on what else I can check to get rid of my turbo lag?

I only know it's lagging as my uncle has the same car and I drove his today and it's much quicker on take off than mine.

Only notice it's slow when first pull off, but when it gets to 2500/3000RPM it moves pretty quickly and you feel the turbo working. There's a fair bit of difference between mine and my uncles

Its a 1993/L (previously I said it was 1994 as was told it was 94 spec, but since found out it's not) 9000 CSE 2.0 LPT Auto.

Cheers,

Rich
 

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Any ideas on what else I can check to get rid of my turbo lag?

I only know it's lagging as my uncle has the same car and I drove his today and it's much quicker on take off than mine.[/b]
I can't really help other than to say it could be differences in many things,

How the car's been driven previously,
Throttle cable tension
Differences in the auto boxes over the miles driven.
Slight differences in boost pressures
Healthyness of the engine.
etc.

Every car is different, I've driven some Aero's that have been right sluggards and others that are not

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mind you, I suppose it's not the end of the world as its real quick after you first accelerate.

It's in for a service on Monday, I'll get them to take a look.

Thanks for your help
 

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Sounds like the base boost level is low. Setting it correctly after having had some work done on my Aero made a world of difference to low-down response (it had been a bit flat after the work). Assuming you're still getting enough boost at higher RPM, have the base boost checked. However, this doesn't usually alter on its own so there is likely to be an underlying fault. Perhaps a weak wastegate actuator.
 
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