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Discussion Starter #1
I have now done around 450 miles after my turbo was replaced last week. I gave it a couple of careful
today to see how it performs in the upper region of the boost gauge. No more travel into the RED zone .
I am probably going to give it another few hundred miles before trying again. My question is if I should pull the famous Fuse 17 then and do the infamous adaptation run? Bearing in mind I am still under a 2.5 year court judgement for a 125MPH offence, I rather some sensible advise first before flouting the law once more
. Very good bicycle shop round the corner though .
 

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You need to do an adaptation run. You do not need to pull a fuse. Get the car above 2000 rpm WOT for at least three seconds, more is prefereable and boost should start coming up. you do need to stay on the gas for a bit to give the ECU time to adapt. It will only adapt max boost pressures and such at WOT.

Good luck!
 

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In 1998 driving a 1992 Nissan Primera 2.0 I got a 10 pounds ticket (ten quid) for doing 129mph in a 50 zone :). Middle of the night (3am), only me on the road (and of course a police car hiding behind flyover pillar). The copper said it that small because:
1. I cared to stop
2. It wasn't a highscore for the weekend (that was a guy on the motorbike doing 170mph)
3. It wasn't a highscore for a day (that was a Saab 9000 Aero doing 155mph that they stopped 30 minutes earlier)

He said they couldn't go for a chase (if I didn't stop) coz their marked oldbanger max speed was about 85mph...
 

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Going back on topic, I'd agree with Erics judgement, you need to do an adaption run. The best way to do this legally is to find a good steepish hill and floor it in third. Worth a trip out to try and find a good steep hill I reckon.
 

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Yes, I did forget to mention that it works best going up a hill. It gives the engine more time to get loaded in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys
. I'll try 3rd gear instead.
What I HAVE tried is to load up the car with 4 hessitant workmates and did a run in 4th gear up this steep hill I know on the A6. But my passengers bottled out by the time I hit 90MPH. It's the torque that did it .
Pitty Leon and /John don't live close by
...
 

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Stanley
You could always get someone else to do the adaptation run for you and therefore not risk your licence......
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If I am not mistaken, the wastegate actuator has to be removed in order to change the turbo. Is it likely that during refitting of the wastegate actuator it has been "down adjusted"? If so, how do I check for this, and which end do I turn the control rod in order to "correct" things?
The engine came with a higher rated wastegate actuator by the way, when compared to the standard 9-3 turbo engine. Can't remember what the PSI is anymore though. Been awhile since I read the PSI figure imprinted on it.
 

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i have a 9k cd carly 2.3 and just dont have a clue about what it should feel and boost like because i have only ever had 2.0l previously, so my question is is there any body out there who lives in the northwest who could perhaps assist me with this and take my car for a spin and show me how to make any necessary adjustments cheers guys strange request i know
 

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Hi Stanley,

To check what your base boost setting is (and therefore whether or not your wastgate actuator rod requires adjustment) you need a graduated boost gauge. If you have one already fitted, I believe it's as simple as lightly touching the brake pedal whilst accelerating hard, this will cause the ECU to dump the boost availible by opening the wastgate as much as is possible. I hope this makes some sense to you, as it's late and I'm sleepy .

Nick.

PS. Stupot, If you are in my neck of the woods please feel free to let me 'adapt' your car for you!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the tip cdcarlsson
. I'll probably have to contact BillJ as well to see if he can help me out on this one, since he lives reasonably close to me. But there are rumours he doesn't read his PM that often
...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just a quick update on this problem, in case it might benefit someone else in the future:

I took the car back to the garage, after I started smelling oil that was coming through the airvents. It turns out that a re-used washer on the new turbo is the cause of the problem as it is failing under pressure and increased temperature. My colleague Ian who is working on the car is of the opinion that the washer had embedded itself into the metal of the old turbo and aquired a pattern matching kind of surface on one end. With the new turbo fitted, the washer is of course not sitting completely flat against the new turbo since it is no longer smooth. This is causing oil to leak and I assume related complications. Not sure why they re-used the old washer , but I won't play the blame game here...
Anyhow, they are changing the washer and hopefully that will prove the point and cure the fault . And, fingers crossed, it will restore full
.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have had a word with the engineer dealing with my car this morning. He has had a word with the turbo supplier, and they have agreed to exchange it. So it seems to me Mark that you may well be right
.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Diagnosis from the turbo supplier is that my original T25 turbo was an uprated unit. But then again, I was already wondering what a T25 was doing on a B235R engine in the first place...
The turbo people had swapped my uprated unit for a bog standard T25 . But they have now swapped it over for one that includes uprated trust bearings. We'll wait and see. Ikke benne benieuwd..
 
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