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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

As you may know I've got a my1992 9000 CD 2.3 Turbo Auto Griffin.

I got it MOT'd yesterday, new brakes fitted (Trent Saab Stage 2 whoo hoo), and at the same time a big service.

Which consisted of the following :

New oil (Shellc Helix Ultra Fully Synthetic), plus filter and sump washer.
New fuel filter.
New air filter element.
Throttle body cleaned.
Cooling system drained, check hoses, and refilled with coolent.
New spark plugs - NGK BCPR7ES-11 gapped to 1.1mm.
New DI Cassette and DI Cassette wiring harness.

When I was bedding in the brakes on one of the acceleration runs I selected 3 instead of D on the Auto box and closed the throttle, as the car accelerated the Turbo boost gauge showed boost all the way into the middle of the red zone and then the car kinda 'sneezed' and pushed the boost back into middle of the yellow.

I tried it again in 3, and the car did the same thing again.

In D it would boost to where it should - the beginning of the broken line on the gauge.

My question - What happened there? The car, engine wise is standard, the TCS system did not engage, and I wasn't at REV limiter because I was only at around 5000 rpm when it happened.

Also, when on my last braking runs the big speed full-on stops.. just as the car nearly stops, the oil light blinks on.. considering that the oil is new and at the correct level.. is this normal ? Never seen this before on my 9-3 when braking hard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
to clarify..

I only ever drive in 'Drive' and before the work the car boosted to the broken yellow/red line, after the work it still does (which I think is correct and normal).

The sneeze I describe is like a 'big hiccup' as the car dramatically cuts the boost. It only happened on two runs, and then everything settled down and only when the car was locked into '3' (it was a rolling start to get up to a suitable speed for '3').

Now obviously, there were a lot of new parts fitted, and these parts may have replaced parts that were worn out and ineffective - could it have just been that the ECU had not, as yet, corrected for the sudden increase in efficiency that these parts may have brought? i.e. new DI cassette, new plugs - gapped correctly (so bigger - more accurate spark), new fuel filter (better fuel flow), new air filter (better airflow into engine). Hence the reason why everything has settled down and it boosts normally now. P.S. I also run 98 unleaded (euro) octane fuel.
 
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