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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have K plate 9000 cse lpt with 120K on clock. On starting from cold the oil light stays on for much longer than normal (pump iffy?) approx 10-15 seconds. Then high pitch scream/whime which increases with engine speed. After a few miles; 3 or so, (yes I know very stupid) it disappears and there is no apparent problem until engine cold again. This is usually after leaving work at evening.No evidence of oil constumption being up or oil quality being down.
Anyone any ideas?? Usual garage suggesting oil pump may be on way out. If so how big a job is this and is it for the faint hearted?
All suggestions appreciated. Thanx
 

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I know this is not much help towards resolution of your problem but it may prevent it becoming a PROBLEM!

By telling you the oil pump is on the way out may have suggested that you have not reached a critical stage as yet. ie it hasn't gone yet.

In effect (and with the symptoms you describe), it may as well have packed up since by the sound of things, you have no oil pressure and the screeching seems to me to be your engine bearings. As described, I can't think what else it might be other than the oil pump but until you have it fixed or until some more enlightened contributor tells you otherwise, I can only advise strongly against running the engine.

Sorry I can't help more.
 

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Sorry.. but definately avoid using the vehicle until a clear diagnosis is confirmed.

One consideration..

The oil pressure takes longest to reach the hydraulic tappets, as they are at the top of the engine.

Hence, if you can hear the tappets clattering for the first 10 seconds(assuming they are not drowned out by the scream!), or longer, this would indicate you have a significant oil pressure problem. Otherwise, chances are the pump is the culprit and pressure is not too critically low.. but don't bank on it at this stage.
 

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Isn't there something about the Crank pulley (harmonic balancer) separating and eating it's way through the oil pump??
I'm sure I've come across that somewhere.

The way to check it is to put a chalk line across the whole of the flat face of the pulley. (You will see that the pulley's made of two steel rings separated by a rubber damper). Next time it screeches, stop the engine and see if the lines have moved relative to each other. If they have, there's the source of your noise!
Pete
Gloucester
UK
'91 9000S 2.3 Turbo
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanx Pete. I think you may have something here. I had to replace that pulley a couple of months back. Went on me big time in a multi-storey. Could the oil pump cause a problem big enough to destroy the pulley? Would it be possible for the pulley to slip and reduce the drive to the oil pump? Where does the oil pump get its drive? Are there pump bearings which could seize/drag?
Sorry for all the questions but I don't have much (any!!) mechanicing skills.
The noise does seem more like a fan belt (plastic/bubber) scream than metal to metal.Any one else heard of this one??
Thanx again.
Paul
 

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If you find the answer I would be very interested to know what it is. Mine ('93 LPT) also squeals on startup. I thought it was belts so replaced them all (and checked the pulleys etc) but it is still there. Mine is a very short squeal (no more than 1 sec) but it does tend to stop at the same time as the oil light goes out which is suspicious!

Anyone know where the oil pump is on these things and how it is driven?
 

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Leachp, sounds like you will need to fork out for a Saab experienced mechanic to check and diagnose the problem on your car, although Peters suggestions are easily conducted.

Re: sound of slipping belts!
Further to your last comments, you need someone to start your engine up whilst another looks under the bonnet to check if any pulleys slip when the belts start turning. Also, check tension of all belts!

If they do, then that is the pulley/shaft that is sticking.
 

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Paul,
The oil pump is (relatively) simple to look at. You need to remove the O/S wing liner, then the Crank Pulley (very tight).
Once that's out of the way, the pump will be held in by either a ring of bolts or a very large circlip. If your pulley damaged the pump, you should be able to see the damage once the pulley's off. The oil pump gets its drive from three cutouts in the crankshaft (like a very big spline) so it's not really possible for it to lose drive.
How many miles has it done? Mine's on 150,000 without any noticeable loss in pressure, so I should think you'd need a colossal mileage before it got too worn to work! It works like an epycyclic drive train (or spirograph for the non mechanically minded!)so there aren't any bearings to fail. The 'bearing surface' is the Timing Cover itself.
It's easy enough to change the pump and check for wear, but get yourself a Haynes manual first.
Hope that helps
Pete
Gloucester
UK
 

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check the oil pressure relief valve is not sticking.this a 17m/m nut on oil pump cover.remove nut and a spring will eject with nut.in the hole vacated there will be a small alloy sleeve, put a screwdriver in and fish it out/if it is scored you will have to replace,,,12pounds approx. when replacing make sure sleeve goes all the way in /nut is easy to engage in threads/ hope this helps
 

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BEFORE YOU GO STRIPPING ENGINES CHECK AUX BELT AND PULLYS, IF THIS SCREEMING NOISE LASTS FOR 3-5 MILES IT IS UNLIKLY TO BE SERIOUS MECHANICAL IF IT WAS YOUR ENGINE WOULD BE SCRAP BY NOW, IF OIL LIGHT STAYS ON COULD BE RELEIF VALVE THEY STICK REGULAR ON 9000, MORE SO IF OIL NOT CHANGED REGULAR THESE ENGINES ALSO SCORE THE TIMING COVER BEHIND OIL PUMP, THIS COULD CAUSE A DELAY IN OIL PRESSURE, OIL PUMP IF NEEDS CHANGING IS NOT THAT BIG OF A JOB LOOK ON BRIGHT SIDE FIRST

AYM
 

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Zeppelin,

Can you get to the oil pressure valve without removing the crank pulley? I would go and look but it is dark outside

I'm assuming that I need to remove the inner wing rather than trying to get at it from above.
 

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yes you can access r/valve it is to right hand side of pulley,you will have to remove inner plastic cover.i cut a hole in cover to give me access if i ever needed again.you will find r/valve is very close to pulley belt/use ext.baron socket for easier access. hope this helps ,zep..
 

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Ah, the old days. My first car (in 1964) was a TR2 (wish I still had it!) and this suddenly lost most of oil pressure one day.
I was terrified but someone said to check pressure relief valve; sure enough, piece of swarf - cleaned it, right back to full oil pressure.
 
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