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Discussion Starter #1
I'm still suffering the after effects of having my car broken into a month or two ago. I've changed the switch/facia panel after it was virtually snapped in half during the break-in. Problem is, now I have no dash lights, which is handy seeing as it's permanantly dark at the moment. The only light on the entire dash that does work is the seatbelt warning light. I've changed all the bulbs and checked the fuses, but to no avail.

Any Ideas?

I thought about rigging up a temporary(?) system with a manual switch to turn the dash lights on/off, using a seperate light (not the original dash lights), but most people seem to hear alarm bells at the mere mention of it. "isn't that illegal" etc,etc.

help.
 

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As Nick_F suggested it sounds like the rheostat (dimmer) on the main clocks. This controls all the dash lights. Try twiddling it back and fore quite a few times it might start working again. It worked for me! Other alternatives are to replace it or bypass it.

Simon.
 

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Hi, have the same mystical problem, but I know it is not the rheostat on the instrument cluster. It schould be the ground point behind the instr. panel, or a connection at the light switch or on the instr.cluster... In my case it works sometimes and sometimes not, and it helps when I give the dash a good hit (although I'm not the hitting kind of man). I didn't repair it so far because I know it takes some time to disassemble the instr. panel...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice everyone. I've tweaked my dimmer for Britain but didn't get the remotest flicker of light so I think a bypass might be called for.

I've become a bit of a pro at removing the facia/switch panel after the break-in, but to bypass the rheostat do I actualy have to remove the instrument cluster as well? Presumably that involves disconecting the speedometer cable - [expletive deleted]!
 

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You could get a light you plug into the cigar lighter; just angle it and have it on when you want it.
Sorry to be flippant, but I know that any job where the dash has to be dismantled can get to be a nightmare.
 

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Here is the theory, never tried it myself do don't blame me if it doesn't work !

"If your rheostat is going, really you ought to remove the instrument and either replace the rheostat, or remove the rheostat completely & connect a short piece of wire across the terminals, both of which are a bit of a ball ache. However there's just enough room through the speaker grille to unplug the 14 pin multi plug from the Rev counter side of the instruments & connect across pins 14 (green cable) and 1 (2 X brown/white cables) using scotchloks & a short piece of wire. This will connect across the rheostat & disable it. Pin 14 is input from light switch & 1 is output to heater, lighter & ashtray. Removing the plug allows for better access with tools."

Simon.
 
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