[gilesy]

This week I "inherited" my dad's '99S 9-5 2.3t SE with LPG following him replacing it with an '06 9-3 Aero V6T.
You might say I'm paranoid, but I reckon this car to be my first proper "modern" (following a string of Minis, 80s/90s VWs and a Fiesta), so I just want to put a few questions out to ye of greater knowledge.

Firstly, I've got what I thought to be the 08 ACC fault, but done the Auto/Off trick and the screen replied with "0" on the left, so I'm not so sure now. Is there any other cause of this type of thing?

Next, the Auto box is sometimes a little slow to engage a gear, perhaps taking a second or two to engage (with a gentle but abrupt nudge forward) when moving from neutral to drive. Also, if I accelerate from a junction, immediately get off the throttle for whatever reason and then press on again, there's a "hole" in the drive which then immediately picks back up. Is this behaviour normal? I'm not sure without checking when the box last had an oil change, but would a change be of any help? On of my old VWs had a slushbox, albeit much more primitive, but I don't recall this ever happening in that car.

Last, when starting (hot or cold), the engine will crank for a couple of seconds longer than you'd expect and a little throttle is required to encourage things along. It's done this for as long as I can remember, and I've often wondered if it's related to the gas installation that my old man had done immediately after buying the car. Is the B235 known for funny starting habits? I ask because my dad's B204 9000 that this 9-5 replaced suffered from evaporation when warm.

If it helps, it's always been maintained irrespective of cost (Manchester Saab until 2002, Sarbkar in Liverpool since), makes no odd noises and absolutely everything works, bar a couple of button lamps on the SID.

...anyone want to buy a Fiesta

 

[nkenyon]

Firstly, I've got what I thought to be the 08 ACC fault,[/b]

What made you "think" that?

Last, when starting (hot or cold), the engine will crank for a couple of seconds longer than you'd expect and a little throttle is required to encourage things along. It's done this for as long as I can remember, and I've often wondered if it's related to the gas installation that my old man had done immediately after buying the car.[/b]

The throttle is "fly-by-wire" and, in normal situations, pressing the accelerator will have no effect.

 

[twoshots]

I have been looking at getting hold of a 9-5 auto instead of my 9-3ss and recently read the buying guides on here and at SeriousSaab. You could check section 4.8 in this link.

 

[sgould]

Changing the gearbox fluid should be a first step. But you will probably have to do it three or four times with a warm up/mixing drive between the changes. The reason for this is that the drain plug only allows about 40% of the fluid to escape. A lot is left in the torque convertor and the valve block. Doing a few changes will get most of it changed out. But each drain will also remove a portion of the new fluid mixed with the old.

 

[plmw]

Welcome to the fold.
If you haven't already discovered it 9-5's are very accomplished motors.

Regarding the auto box change check the last time the fluid was replaced and look around the forum for techniques if you need to do it (relatively easy DIY - front end off the ground).
Mine (MY2000) suffered similar notchiness which has all but disappeared since undertaking a progressive fluid change.
Resetting the box's electronics (moving the gear lever slowly through the box - again details on here) once the fluid has been changed helped.
There aren't any filters to clean but using genuine SAAB fluid gives peace of mind.
If you intend towing with it (on occasion I tow a medium sized caravan and a car trailer) then a supplementary transmission oil-cooler is a good idea. Mine came as a DIY kit (relatively easy DIY) from Kenlowe in Berks.
When towing shift the box manually, don't use cruise and tow in Sport mode.

Three other things to bear in mind - 1) use only fully synth engine oil (expensive but essential ) and drop the sump, clean the pick-up filter (needs a fair amount of skill to DIY - front end off the ground) if this hasn't been done recently. Mine was dropped at 60 & 120k - not needed at 60k but definitely at 120.
2) change the pollen filter on schedule (relatively easy DIY - involves glove box removal). Blocked/dirty filter can cause water build up in the heating trunking and can blow the ECU under the front passenger seat at huge cost.
3) Try to find out if the latest PCV kit (relatively easy DIY - front end of the ground) has been fitted. Again lots on here about that but important to prevent oil consumption increasing/oil vapour smell into cabin as the car gets older.

Finally enjoy your SAAB ownership.
Cheers, Pewe.

 

[AeroDel]

Three other things to bear in mind - 1) use only fully synth engine oil (expensive but essential ) and drop the sump, clean the pick-up filter (needs a fair amount of skill to DIY - front end off the ground) if this hasn't been done recently. Mine was dropped at 60 & 120k - not needed at 60k but definitely at 120.[/b]

I thought the sump drop was a 'do and forget'? Change the PCV to the latest spec, only ever use fully synthetic oil and you were sorted, or am I wrong?

 

[gilesy]

Cheers for your time guys!

Neil of Stevenage - I've got redders rear vents irrespective of what the ACC is trying to do, and for some reason re-doing the diagnostic check to show a friend this evening gave "1" "08" on the display. Play time to fix that one!

twoshots - Cheers, appreciate it.

sgould - I thought as much, but I do have twenty or so litres of free fresh Mobil Dex3 courtesy of a friend.

pewe - it had the PCV done and "sump service" many moons ago and has only ever been fed full synth since then, so I'll just carry on the same script. DIY skill is no problem, I rebuilt an engine for my scirocco and tinker continually

One last thing; is there anyway of connecting my ipod into the factory CD/Radio/Cassette without using an FM doobery or tape adaptor? I'm an A/V engineer by trade, and they're bodges

 

[robertson.a]

Certainly do the Auto fluid change as described. It is the first thing that a workshop would do anyway. Usually fixes most issues if they have not gone too far. Reset the box by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes. Do an engine oil flush and put in 100% synthetic oil from now on. Gap the plugs to 1mm. Drop the sump if you really want to sleep at night. Worth doing. Put in the best fuel you can and an injector cleaner for three tanks. Pump up the tyres to 36psi and get a 4 wheel alignment done, setting all four wheels to the minimum toe-in settings legally allowed. Enjoy. These cars are fantastic for so many reasons. TLC goes a long way too, so pop the bonnet every month to check on things.