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i'm replacing the clutch in my 86 9k t. what are the "rules" about keeping the plate and the fly? what kit should i get? can i get away with just getting a new clutch? the only bad thing about the surface of the fly and plate are that i can see it got hot because it's discolord... aney help would be nice.

matt.

also how much $ am i looking at
 

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Your flywheel should be OK. A "full" clutch kit comprises two parts- the friction plate and the pressure plate assembly.

Whilst wear isn't normally a problem on the pressure plate, the spring fingers do get tired with age. If you don't replace it, you may get clutch slip.

Also, whilst it's out, it's normally considered a sensible measure to replace the slave cylinder. It's not terribly expensive, and if it's old the disturance of removing the clutch can damage the seals.

I'm afraid I can't offer any advice on prices stateside. Hopefully someone else can.
 

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Quasimotors site strongly recommends getting the flywheel surface refaced by a machine shop. I asked a few mechanic friends of mine who all said "Why??" and said they had never heard of such a thing. I didn't bother. Mine was at 90,000 and the flywheel surface was a bit discoloured as you describe. I figure I might do it next time round If yours has done mega miles, it may be worth it, especially if you are running any mods.

On the parts, I bought the clutch kit and slave cylinder from a dealer in the end and haggled a good price of about $270 for the clutch kit (which is the friction plate, pressure plate, and release bearing). The slave cylinder I think cost about $110. Those are just the UK prices translated into approx US dollars though so YMMV

A lot of the independant vendors sell the same gear both as discounted genuine items, or OEM equivalent (usually made by the same company Valeo or Sachs or whoever), so shop around. I needed them quick and I got lucky with a Saab dealer who was prepared to give a discount.
 

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I'm just about to do this myself and if the flywheel hasn't been chewed up by the AP clutch plate (like Mark's was), I'll simply be taking an orbital sander to it like some independents (including Abbott Racing) do, just to de-glaze it. I've heard of people skipping this step on tuned 9000s and experiencing clutch slip again soon after the replacement.
 

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When I did the slave on my C900 at the weekend, which has sufferd from occasional slip (it boosts about 2/3 in to the red, a wee bit more than stock )I noticed that the friction plate wasn't that worn, but the pressure plate had a fair amount of shading. There were no similar marks on the flywheel. So, what I had assumed was a friction plate problem looks like it is a pressure plate. From the look of it, I'd say that the friction plate had been replaced previously, but not the pressure plate. For various reasons, we had to bend the springs a lot to re-fit it and for the first 90 miles or so I had an awful lot of slipping. However it's settled down again now.

Bill, I do hope your flywheel is in a better state than mine. If it needs to be skimmed, I'd check the depth of a new one first, and make sure you don't go any less than 2mm below it.
 
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