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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All, new to this forum. Purchased a 1990 9000t a few weeks ago to replace my new ford focus as a company car, when I changed jobs. Its a 9000SE t16 2.0 (manual), so all the toys, although i'm not yet sure about the wooden cappings on the doors! Its a 144,000 miler, but is in remarkably good condition, no rust anywhere! This supplements my 99t which I have owned for donkeys, but is currently in a semi-vegetative state in the parents garage

Only slight problem encountered so far is a small, but noticeable power loss at revs over say 3200. When you put the boot in the car really takes off
, but at 3200ish revs there seems to be a marked tail-off in the torque, although the boost needle is still planted at the end of the orange zone. I've just had the car serviced, but i've only just really noticed the problem so I didn't point it out at the time. The car is not sluggish by any means, even when this is happening but it just feels as if its being held back in some way.

Any ideas what this may be??? Its not spoiling the enjoyment of the car in the meantime, but would be interested to know if it is something which can easily be cured!

Will try and get some pics posted, when i've borrowed a digital camera!!! Also, anyone got a Edit by Scaero: Removed as this will appear in the classifieds soon ????
 

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Hi! and welcome to Saabscene andyh

I'm sure a 9000 expert will be along soon to answer your questions.


In the meantime could you repost your "wanted ad" in the Classifieds - Click on forum home at the top of this page and the Classifieds are found at the bottom of the page that appears. As a newcomer I'll be gentle with you because on Saabscene we don't allow For Sale/Wanted adverts within the body of the forum - as we say at the top of the home page.
 

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This car is pre-Trionic, so an adaption run is not really possible, I don't think.

I don't specifically know what might cause this problem, but there's a few things you could check. Did you get the car serviced by a dealer or specialist, or an ordinary garage?

Check that you have the correct plugs and that they are gapped correctly. They *must* be NGK plugs, if you have a DI car.

Check vacuum hoses for leaks. A lot of people, on older cars especially, choose to replace all the small vac hoses with silicone, just to be sure.

Check that the dump valve is not leaking.

Check the PCV valve.

Check your air filter.

You could try cleaning the APC solenoid (aka. BPC valve).

When was the fuel filter last replaced?

Searches on this board on any of these items should turn up "how to" info, but feel free to ask.

Sorry to turn out a list of the same old suggestions, but they do seem to get 90% of performance problems - especially plugs and hoses.

Glad to hear you are enjoying your new car, and welcome to board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies, I will look into those as potential culprits. I can rule out the air filter as thats a new JR freeflow jobby, but I am not sure about the rest. Car was serviced at an independent specialist, but as I said I did not report the problem specifically at the time.

I had all of the vac hoses changed at the service at minimal cost, apart from the one which goes to the dashboard gauge. I have noticed a slight hissing/whistling sound from this area when the car is on boost, and now I come to mention it I remember my dad changing a valve of some sort on the vaccum pipe under the dash for this reason. Could this be the problem I wonder? What does that valve do?

Other than that i'll go through each of your suggestions in turn and see if it helps!

Thanks again in the meantime!
 

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AndyH, I think you'll find that the vacuum pipe under the dash has at least 5 separate connectors before it reaches the gauge.

After the three-way connector in the engine bay, there is a plastic coupling where it leaves the engine bay/enters the body, and then two different valves above the pedals, both with two connectors. Then the pipe goes to the back of the gauge.

All potential leakage points; might be worth checking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks DaveS, I think there must be a leak down there somewhere, I think the dashboard will have to be attacked this weekend!

Hopefully a combination of these possibilities will get me sorted!
 

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AndyH, worth a look anyway. It's simple enough, you just need to remove the trim panel above the pedals to get at the valves. (Then lie upside down in the footwell ).

One of the valves is the turbo overboost cut off, but I'm sorry I can't remember what the other one does.

Have fun!
 

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Originally posted by Mark E:
[qb]Yes, adaptation works on the earlier LH/DI APC 9000s that don't have tweakable pots on the APC unit. [/qb][/b]
Wow, I'm sure I've always been told that it didn't Well, it makes sense that it should work on the software controlled ones. Thanks for putting me straight on that
 

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My method of LH (DI/APC) Adaption run is:

Put Optimax and Octane Booster in nearly empty tank.

Disconnect Battery For 30 Mins
Reconnect and take out for adaption run
Make several passes at WOT between aprx 2000 - 3500 revs - I do this in 4th then 5th if possible - dont know if it makes a difference.

Must take more than 3 secs at WOT to go 2750-3250. Tricky


Watch the boost, repeat till boost stabilises.

Adaption run after every boost related tweak.

Seems to work for me but may be just Placebo Effect

Anyone confirm or alter this?

Cheers

Dave
 

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Yes, Dave, that's pretty much it. Adaptation will actually work over a longer period of time too, so if you normally drive "aggressively" it will adapt to that.

The procedure was actually devised as a service help, such that the adaptation can be carried out more quickly.

You don't have to disconnect the battery though- pull the fuse in the engine relay/fuse compartment labelled "ignition control" or similar.
 

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Try some fuel injector cleaner as well.
I have been reliably informed that it can make quite a difference on injected engines with high milage.
I put some in every 6 months and my engine is very smooth.

Skiddins
 

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You don't have to disconnect the battery though- pull the fuse in the engine relay/fuse compartment labelled "ignition control" or similar.[/b]
I do this they turn the ignition on, this disapates any power left in the system.
I have also disconnected the battery before now, then turned the ignition on.
It resets everything straight away.

Skiddins
 
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