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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right,my local garage has quoted me about £250 plus parts and VAT,on doing the swap.They said around 8 hours to do the job,it's a 93' CS 2.3 turbo,is this right? If so/not,how easy is it to do it myself.I'm not a mechanical virgin but i don't want to spend 8 hours in the cold either.Any advice chaps?
 

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For 8hrs i would expect them to be doing the whole lot (inc balance chains),last time i checked the local dealer was charging about
£13-1400 inc parts.Some people like to remove the head when doing the job,some leave it on.
You can get split link chains for these,as Mark says,but this can be a bit of a waste of time if you plan to keep the vehicle,but if you want to quiet it down to sell, then it's the way to go.
Bear in mind the parts for the full job could add around another £500>600 to the labour charges.
depending on what they are doing (full/part) with the chains.
"You pays your money & takes your choice" as they say.
J
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bl**dy hell,i've already got the car! Thats a bit steep,well i'm getting it checked today just to be sure.I have all the paperwork in front of me now (lots of it too) and it looks like the timing chain was last changed by Abbott at 148k.Says on the invoice the chain cost £100??? How long do they last? As it was serviced by Oxford Saab up to 120k,then 2 stamps from St.Davids Saab (Exeter) taking it to 148k.Then 3 more from other garages bringing it to 187k.It now has 198k so if Saab were servicing it surely they would change parts like these if they're worn?
 

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Price sounds about right for full timing gear job,parts will be more than double that,I would recomend having the oil pump changed at the same time,shame to spoil the engine for a a'puth of tar,well £40.
 

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The chain is not the problem,its the sprockets that wear,to the extent that there is no teeth left.
If your car has a good service history and the oil has been chenged regularly the timing gear should be as good as gold,however a chain replacement at only 148k seems premature,are the chains noisy??
 

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Agree with MikeH, if the chain was changed at 148000, you shouldn't really need another at 198000.

What did Abbott change, though? Did they do the bottom pulley as well? If so, that should still be OK if you've had regular oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not exactly sure what other parts they changed,i have the invoice for the work carried out and it says S&F timing chain,i presume that means supply & fit.It all came to £2271 but that was with the ECU upgrade,exhaust,suspension etc. They're not that noisy,just sound a bit tappy.
 

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you should get 100 k out of a chain at least
I changed mine at 135k just in case
it is now at 191 k and ,like yours, a little tappy but methinks this is more probably valve gear wear
however when I do rebuild the engine I will get the chains done again just to be on the safe side
 

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There is a Saab tool, which is no longer available, which they released because of recalls on 9000 timing chains
If you can borrow one you only have to remove the rocker cover and tensioner and then wind in the new chain very very easy BUT not that many people have them
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looks like it might be OK,garage said theres not much noise coming from the actual chain,it sounded more like it was coming from the tensioner pulley on the alternator belt.Garage said that needs a special tool to remove the belt,is that true and should it move about when the engine is revved??
 

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The tool for removing the cam belt can be substituted with a hefty screwdriver or crow bar,the jockey wheel is known to wear and can make some horrendous noise,I don't think much of the garage you are using,can't you find one where they use brains??
mike
 

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To be honest, if the garage haven't got the special tool for removing the belt, then I'd walk away from them, because this is one of the most basic tools that I'd expect any decent Saab indy to have at his disposal.

The pulley idler wheel (actually there's two) is a known cause of noise around that end of the engine. It's relatively cheap to fix- you should get change out of £75 for the whole job.

Thats' the good news. If the belt is jumping about, then it's possible that the tensioner is also on it's way out. The OEM part is around £170 IIRC, ECP and others supply for about £60 but it's not quite as good. I went for the latter and haven't had any problems yet.
 

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As far as I remember, even Haynes give the details of the 'special tool' for the drivebelt tensioner removal. All it is, is a strip of flat steel with a couple of bolts through it. I changed the belt tensioner on my 9000 with nothing more sophisticated. Initially my local (non Saab) garage told me the tensioner was seized, they had taken it off and lubricated it and freed it off. After that, I got an annoying whirrp, whirrp noise at idle and you could see the belt flapping about. I replaced the tensioner myself and the belt ran silently with no flap. The most hassle was getting the access through the wheelarch liner hatch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Excellent,i'll probably have go myself then.The garage i use for other cars isn't a Saab specialist just a run of the mill.I think theres a specialist in Torquay which is only 15 miles or so away,i'll use them for the Saab.Thanks.
 

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Originally posted by Mark E:
[qb] QUOTE
Originally posted by SJ:
[qb] The most hassle was getting the access through the wheelarch liner hatch. [/qb][/b]
TBH, it's easier to remove the wheel arch liner and then you have a clear run at the job. [/qb][/b][/quote]Now that you mention it Mark, I remember struggling with the hatch and I think I probably took the old tensioner off through the hatch, wrestled to put the new one (and belt) back on, gave up and removed the arch liner front half.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Aaaah! (wakes in a cold sweat) I've just bleedin remebered that the A/C is disconnected(for performance i think),as in the belt is not traveling round the pump,i wonder how previous owner wound the belt?
 
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