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I'm finding that my car is frequently showing its running very hot and when I check the radiator header tank is empty - yet when I refill it I can't find a leak and can't find any sign of one on inspection. I'm considering putting Radweld in and seeing what happens - does this sound reasonable?
 

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The hard-to-find leak points seem to be:

1) Heater matrix - normally accompanied by steamed-up windows, a funny smell (curry?), and perhaps damp carpets.

2) Water-pump O-rings. As Stephen said, there's a pipe running round the back of the engine that fits into the waterpump with a rubber O-ring.

3) Water pump spindle. Mine leaked here, because the pump was knackered. Eventually it started to whine as well. There was usually a bit of water down on the subframe/trays on the OS.

4) Radiator ends (where the plastic ends are crimped to the metal rad). A few have posted here about this, and even so, when my Dad's 9000 got this problem, although I thought I could see streaks of dried coolant, I could not see actual coolant anywhere, even though it was leaking quite fast. This one just seems to be hard to spot.

You could try Radweld - it has worked for me in the past (not with the knackered pump though ), but lots of people here advise against it.

If possible, try getting the car warm on a cold morning and look for steam/vapour.

By the way, are you sure it's not a headgasket?
 

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I presume that the fan actually works! It's not unknown for the fan switching circuit to fail (the dreaded blue wire). If you have a two speed fan, and the slow speed fails, when the engine gets really hot, the high speed circuit alone will switch on and immediately fuse as it's supposed to run with the slow speed circuit, not on its own.
 
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