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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a plan... maybe not a very good one, but here it is...

I plan to try and reach around the 200kw at the wheels with my B202 9000 Turbo.. now here is a lis tof things i want to get, and i was hoping to get feedback on what i do/dont need on the list.

Engine
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High flow intercooler (abbott?)
3" delivery pipe
3.3 bar FPR
Volvo Green injectors
Wolf v4 ECU
Port & polished head (would a T7 head fit my block? if so an abbott gas flowed would probably be nice)
new rings and bearings (300,000 kms almost now)
TD04 16HL turbo
3" stainless exhaust
piston dump valve
high flow air filter
poly engine mounts.
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--this is the maybe list--
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IC spray
LSD
engine balanced
lighten flywheel
oil injectors
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Suspension and braking
poly bushes
koni dampers
uprated springs (lower)
strut brace
17" rims
large brembo discs & appropriate pads
maybe 4 pot calipers
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how does this sound to get a stock 160 bhp engine up to around the 320-350bhp?
i know its going to cost alot, but it would be a nice ongoing project. (wouldnt mind getting a 2nd car first though, because this could take alot of work to complete!!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
also, are there any other mods that should be done to an '87 model 9000 before i take on a project like this (apart from fixing up the intereior and paintwork )? like any driveline upgrades to withstand the torque? also what is the max torque my gearbox can withstand... its manual ofcourse, and what is the real limit on torque when driveablity is concerned? i know ylee had a problem where cruising in 3rd and he put the foot into it wheelspin occured....
 

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Eric van Spelde is your man who's put a T7 head on a B202 in his C900- but not without a fair amount of work. I'm sure he'll be able to fill you in.

As for the rest of your list, it all looks the right way forward, except perhaps for balancing the flywheel, which many folk feel is a debatable exercise.

I would raise the engine balancing up the list though- to achieve the sort of power level you want, you will need to raise the rev limit IMO.

In terms of having a driveable car, you must also give greater priority to sorting the handling. Springs and shocks are essential, and LSD will be a must if you want any chance of making the most of the torque through FWD.
 

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Don't forget some forged lower compression pistons.

Also, the head from a 2.1L or 2.3L ('91-'93) will lower the compression ratio to about 8.7:1 with stock pistons due to larger combustion chambers. It also flows better, and I happen to have one, but it's aaaaalll miiine.

If you get forged pistons, look into getting them ceramic coated. This is because the other blocks haf oil squirters to cool the pistons, and if you can't get that, the ceramic will allow less heat into the piston in the first place, thus doing the same job. Idealy both would significantly reduce heat soak in the pistons.

Adrian~
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
adrian.... i was thinking about ceramic coating of the pistons, but have no idea who would do that sort of work, especially anywhere close enough that it would be reasonable to have them do it!
the 2 reasons i wanted a T7 head was to get a better flowing head and also the lower compression that it would give, making it so i didnt need lower compression pistons. anyway... first thing is the ecu, which will be mapped to around 210 bhp so i can have a bit mroe fun while i wait for more money... the ecu will allow me to set the rev limiter.. probably to around 7k for the high performance map, and standard 6k for the LPT map (love that switchable mapping!)
 

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I'd remove the IC spray and put water injection on the 'definite' list instead. Very handy if you want to wind up the boost or use more ignition advance.

Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i was talking to the guy who was selling the ecu... he said that the main problem is that if your water injection has a problem and stops working, then you destroy an engine, because if you tune an engine to use WI, then you are NEEDING it to keep the engine running. I was thinking of having it for hot weather use only (water injection) so not to bother with it on the list.
 

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Unfortunately that's the same school of thought that would like you to tune your car for a specific octane.

Most custom tuned ECU's just aren't as good as factory units. The factory tune could have easily been tuned to run water injection, and should the Water Injection fail it would be no different than if you were to dump a tank of bad gas on it.

Unfortunately most aftermarket tuners lack either the resources, or perhaps just the desire, to maintain quite the same level of adaptability.

If using the factory APC system water injection failure will show up as knock and a subsequent boost retard. This will be obvious to your "seat of the pants" dyno and a good warning to back off.

Water injection was really only "dangerous" back in the days before computerized engine control. Try to keep in mind that water injection has been used for more than twice as long as ECU's have even existed. Technology changes rapidly, tuner's perceptions do not appear to.

This is probably due to the fact that most of the popular automotive literature on turbocharging was written before computer control. Without computer control, a water injection failure would indeed be quite dangerous. But equally dangerous would be running 87 octane in a turbo car originally tuned to run on 93 ... however Saab found a way around that in the early 80's. It's no different with water injection.

That being said ... if the ECU you intend to buy is not adaptable enough for water injection, don't use it. A set ignition/boost/fuel map with no provision for a knock retard function will not work properly should WI fail, and likewise will not work properly if you lower the octane in your fuel. Be weary of both in such a situation.

Dubbya~

p.s. As for ceramic coatings. Many people buy pistons from J&E here in the states. In fact, quite a few people in Australia do too. If you buy from J&E the pistons will be made in the states and you might be able to arrange to have them shipped to www.performancecoatings.com to get them coated before being shipped to Australia. Just a possibility anyway.
 

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What he said

Basically, if you run out of water any good ECU should detect the onset of knock and retard the ignition and/or reduce the boost. This is what the APC does when you fill up on low-octane fuel, after all. Throw some more water in, and you're back to maximum


Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the ecu does have a knock sensor input, and i was thinking of keeping my APC unit in place, as i have an LED that flashes with knock. i also want to be able to have the on-dash adjustable boost that i am planning on doing one rainy day... even though the new ecu can manage boost if i wanted it to. the tuning guy was saying that with the wolf, he would map the ignition timing so that it would retard the spark as the boost rises, and that water injection would give me 3-4° of advance over what i would normally be running. i am taking his word because he showed me his 1500bhp 8ltr V8 twin turbo race engine, that used to have WI, but he decided the risk wasn't worth it, so there isnt WI on it anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
well.. got that on-dash boost knob finished... from 5psi to 18psi adjustable. leaving on LPT performance so that when i eventually need to go
it will feel even better than normal!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
changed my mind on the Wolf ECU... know someone with it and they think it is cruddy.. so i am going with a fuel chip, (preferably custom written) that holds both stock and performance maps (need a 64k eeprom instead of a 32k)
 
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