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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Griffin went in for its pre cont trip MOT, failed on two points. Hand brake rises too high, and CV boot gaiter split. Now the first item the handbrake cable I adjusted when I did the back brakes last year, and it's never really been the same since, I don't seem to be able to adjust to the point where I get any decent low bite, I'm thinking maybe the cabel needs replacing but can anyone give me any tips on how to possibly have one last go at adjusting and if that doesn't work what kind of price do EuroCP or SFSCOP do the handbrake cables at, and what kind of a job is it...I've read in the Haynes something about lowering the fuel tank. The second thing the CV gaiter will be sorted when I get my handsa on a complete Hub and Driveshaft though I'm wondering where I can get one for at the right price and how soon I can get it.
 

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I haven't done this cable replacement or adjustment myself so not an expert, but:-
1)When replacing the pads it is necessary to set the clearance. I assume that if this is not set right, it may affect the handbrake adjustment so it may be a good idea to start from scratch and set the pad clearance as per 'Haynes'and then do the handbrake.
2) Unless the cables are binding or seized, assuming that you have not actually run out of adjustment, I would doubt that the cables are the problem, especially as you don't say that the h/brake test failed for any other reason than the lever travel.
3)I read somewhere, possibly on the SAABec mailist, of people having trouble getting the adjustment correct. The advice I think, was to reduce the 1mm clearance. From memory it was to .6mm, ( just found my file on it he says '15-20thou', whatever that is in new money ).
Also suggests that when adjusting the 4mm screw for the pad clearance, to back off the screw 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn: Haynes says 1/2 turn.
Another suggestion was to slacken the handbrake adjustment before making this pad clearance adjustment.
If all else fails have a look at the http://www.townsendimports.com Townsend Site. There is a handbrake adj. sequence there I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It hasn't actually failed on the travel but on the lack of force being placed onto the brakes which just as well might be the same thing. Must admit when doing the pad clearance part I took no notice of the clearance sequence (i.e. back half a turn or whatever) as the adjustment required afterwards to the handbrake cable meant the brakes barely came one, I just did it so the discs didn't quite bind with the pad. Thanks for the townsend website address.....have used before but forgot about it!
 

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Ah well! in that case, additional to what previously said, I've heard that the handbrake lever/mechanism inside the caliper is prone to siezing. I don't know the fix ( other than a replacement caliper ) maybe Townsend can help there too.
I had a warning on reduced handbrake efficiency on one side at last mot, but I have 10 months to fix it.
 

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If the handbrake cable is not set correctly the calliper won't self adjust and the lever travel gets higher. Or as happened to me, the plastic cap which sits atop the nuts of both cable adjusters to prevent them unscrewing may be missing allowing the adjusters to unscrew so that the handbrakes don't pull fully on.

The setup procedure is to adjust the cables first so that the lever at the caliper is about 10 - 20 thou off the stop in the rest position. Then screw in the hex adjuster in the caliper all the way and back it off until the pads are just clearing the discs and no more - about a 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn.
I would have a go at this first before condemning the calipers.
 

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Hex adjuster in calipers does get stripped - you can tell when you try turning it and nothing much happens. The hex adjuster can be bought for £15 (expensive for a 5p cap head screw bought I dont have a lathe and it was cheaper than a recon caliper)
 
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