Saabscene Saab Forum - Saab Technical Information Resource banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fitted a new flexi hose to clutch system about 4-5 weeks ago and didn't bleed it properly. Was about to bleed it (went to visit DeeVee, but got stuck in traffic to borrow clutch bleeder therefor estill no proper bleed). Dipped clutch today and "hey presto" no resistance. Hose gone again!! Is this a common thing with 9000s (mine's a 96 9000CS LPT)?

Then to add to my bad start to the day, as the AA van was towing me, the towing eye was ripped off my car it seems that it is only held on by 6 spot welds.

new hose made up at lunch time (400psi rated, stell wire braided) to be fitted tonight with welder sought over next week.


Aghhhhh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
yes this is a common problem on the 9000's, the flexi part of the clutch pipe is pourous( as told to me by my local saab dealer!!!!!). The best option is to go to a pipe maker and have a copper pipe made and fit that instead of the flexi. When you bleed it remember to use a pressure bleeder and while you are doing it make sure that you pump the clutch pedal aswell to remove all the air from the master cylinder.
have just done the same procedure this weekend and it came out really well
good luck
mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Will probably get the solid pipe sorted next time. Will be taking your advice and getting the eezee bleed kit from Halfords on way home tonight (mate in work doesn't know he's going there yet ).

Hopefully, the heavy duty pipe that the guy fitted yesterday should hold out a bit longer.

on the towing eye issue, it looks like the front may have been kerbed in a previous life (bumper has a few scuff on it, and I have been caught out once or twice with the length of the front end, so seems likely) as it seems to be a bit bent with flaked paint at bend point and rust underneath. seems a bit weak though just six spot welds to tow such a heavy beast.

Cheers Mark,

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Forked out the 13.99 at local halfords for Eezibleed thing and still no joy from clutch - would be tearing my hair out if I had any.

getting some resistance but not enough to get engagement.

Any other thoughts on this? Only happended since flexi changed, surely can't be master/slave cylinder (please!)

CHeers,

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Pity AA don't have same policy.

Have just been delving through old threads on clutches and will try Derrick's (apologies if incorrect spelling) suggestion to check for slave or master fault, i.e. clamp flex section and if pedal firmer/solid then slave, if slack then likely to be master seal - will get the molegrips out tomorrow.

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,925 Posts
Originally posted by efcbluepete:
[qb]Forked out the 13.99 at local halfords for Eezibleed thing and still no joy from clutch - would be tearing my hair out if I had any.

getting some resistance but not enough to get engagement.

Any other thoughts on this?  Only happended since flexi changed, surely can't be master/slave cylinder (please!)

CHeers,

Pete [/qb][/b]
I changed the brake fluid in mine today, when I bled the clutch I completely lost the pedal. I used a pressure bleeder and a vacuum bleeder with no joy. I even tried the old fashioned way of pumping the pedal, still no joy. In the end I back bled the system and it sorted it. In case you don't know how to back bleed I'll put it down.
You need an old squirty oil can and a length of hose. Fill the oil can with brake fluid, after cleaning it of course, and fit the hose to the nozzle and to the bleed valve on the clutch slave. Loosen the bleed valve normally and pump with the oil can. This pushes the brake fluid the opposite way, and can reverse the seals if they've pushed through. I managed to get enough pedal to drive and whilst driving the pedal came right back, just need to see what it's like in the morning.

Good Luck

Neil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have given up till weekend and will try various things including using the eezibleed to "reverse bleed" the system and checking master cylinder.

Will post when I eventually find out what's wrong and how eventually overcome.

Cheers,

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Whilst pressure bleeding and pumping the pedal a couple of times (as Mark notes) make sure the fluid level in the reservoir does not go down in the clutch part (back right hand corner when looking from the front) since its volume is not much and is not easy to see. I have also found it helps if the car is level or pointing up since the master cylinder outlet needs to be above the inlet to help the air flow out. Have not looked for a while but I seem to remember the master cylinder points slightly down. Even with this lot it is still a bit hit and miss at getting a good pedal but once you get one stop bleeding and leave it alone since next go may be soft again - at least my experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
had the wife doing the pedal bit while I checked the levels. there were a few times when she found "...a bit more resistance...", but I said to keep going until resistance all way to top - guess I should have stopped when she got some feedback.

Waiting till the Old Man is back from hols at weekend as he knows his way around an car a bit better than the missus (and can offer a good sounding board for finding way through probs).

Have got some kit set up for weekend to 1. check if master OK, 2. reverse bleed, 3. pressure bleed again.

ANy thougts on DOT4 sythetic versus non-synthetic and what happens if mixed?

Cheers,

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
545 Posts
Just to clarify how I used the Eezibleed pressure bleeder.
Apply pressure kit, bleed some fluid through, then pump pedal a couple of times, bleed some more fluid through, release pressure and then check pedal. If lucky should now be ok. If not have another go. Variations around this may help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,245 Posts
Just to clarify how I used the Eezibleed pressure bleeder.
Apply pressure kit, bleed some fluid through, then pump pedal a couple of times, bleed some more fluid through, release pressure and then check pedal. If lucky should now be ok. If not have another go. Variations around this may help.[/b]
I've been using an Eezibleed with no problems since I got my first 99, 22 years ago. On the 9000 I find that air often gets trapped in the master cylinder. The answer is to get an assistant (the wife) to press the pedal fully down, this purges the air out into the line, bleed off a little more fluid until the air is out, then release the pedal. That usually sorts it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, another weekend wasted and the 9k is still sat useless

pressure bled, vacuum bled, reverse bled, elevated combination of the above with not a bubble in sight - still no gear selection

some movement happening, slight feel to the pedal and pipes "kick" when pedal operates, no loss of fluid and can see slave moving the actuator onto the thrust bearing by about 1/2 inch, but still cannot select gears (when running) (note that very, very difficult to select reverse even when not running ).

Clutch "specialists" are coming to take it away today and advise on what problem is. Note that I couldn't find my molegrips so couldn't try Derek's master cylinder check, but with the movement in the pipe when pushing pedal I am assuming that master is OK?

Dealer wanted approx £400 to do slave cylinder (<£100 for part and >£300 for labour (quoted at "about 5 hours" which equates to me to be >£60/hour
), local clutch peeps want closer to £250 for same job, but offer to pick up for £15 and diagnose actual fault for free whereas dealer want £75 to pick up plus "usual hourly rate" to diagnose.

Some serious P**s taking going on in work after me boasting about how much of a bargain I got when I got the car about 6 weeks ago.

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well,

you may see in my post to Microcat's clutch thread, my clutch problem is now sorted. clutch centre put new genuine saab line in and all is well again.

if hose goes - either 1) use MarkB's advice and get a solid line made up, or B) pay for genuine saab line set.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

Pete
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,928 Posts
Originally posted by efcbluepete:
[qb]Well,

you may see in my post to Microcat's clutch thread, my clutch problem is now sorted.  clutch centre put new genuine saab line in and all is well again.

if hose goes - either 1) use MarkB's advice and get a solid line made up, or B) pay for genuine saab line set.

Thanks for all the help and advice so far.

Pete [/qb][/b]
Excuse me, but I've never commented about clutches, partially because I don't currently own one. I wonder if you mean marks carlsson's suggestion about copper pipe?
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top