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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was delighted when my car passed it's MOT with flying colours recently. Excellent, I thought, another 12 months of trouble free motoring.

Alas, my confidence attracted the attention of the God of Misfortune and, the very next day, my car dropped back to base boost. This has been accompanied by a sudden increase in exhaust volume from somewhere near the front of the car. Methinks (in my ignorance) that this might indicate a problem with the exhaust manifold which I believe is the bit next to the turbo in the exhaust system.

Is this likely and, if it is, is this expensive?
 

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Sounds like it could be a possible problem with a leak between the turbo and the manifold, or somewhere in that area. At best it could just be the bolts need tightening.

When you next start it from cold, hold your hand next to the suspect area and see if you can feel any escaping gasses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Bubbles. I got the exhaust checked on the way home tonight and it's fine so I guess that was just my hypochondria kicking in. I'll get the car booked in to check the usual suspects, loose hoses, wastegate actuator rod etc.
 

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Um... thinking about it Gordy, it could be that a hose between the output of the turbo and the throttle body has popped off/come loose/split. This would certainly give you a noise from the front (it's actually induction noise) and something that appeared to be base boost or less.
 

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My 2.0LPT suddenly dropped in power the other week – accompanied by a deep roar from the engine bay during acceleration (or, at least trying to accelerate). It was as if the Turbo had stopped working - the engine felt choked.

When everything had cooled down, I got underneath and the problem turned out be that the waste gate actuator rod had became detached from the waste gate. (fairly common I believe, the retaining split pin was missing)

The waste gate itself was suspended in the ‘open’ position, meaning that the exhaust pressure went straight out of the waste gate, preventing the turbo from spooling up, and, I assume, the was the source of the extra noise.

The roar was not massively loud in the way you might expect from a broken exhaust, but it was definitely not quite right!

Hope this is of some use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Had some time on my hands today so got the car up on axle stands and had a look underneath.

Thanks to BillJs website I've been able to identify that it's the wastegate actuator rod that has come loose. I tried to see if I could reattach it without any success so it will go into the garage next week but I did want to check a couple of things.

1. Should the wastegate lever be tensioned at all? Mine is loose and rotates with the slightest of touches.

2. I could only get the very tip of the wastegate rod to to touch the edge of the wastegate lever and, as far as I could tell, there was no more play available in either the rod or the lever. I wouldn't have thought that I'd have needed to unscrew the locknut to attach them or am I wrong?

3. I had this actuator rod problem before and the specialist had told me that the retaining pin had snapped but part of it was still blocking the hole on the wastegate lever pivot. They managed to bodge together something so that they didn't need to take the car to bits and drill out the pin. Can anyone think of a simple way to remove the pin? (which will be securely rusted in place, no doubt.)
 

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Having done the operation on my 9000 a few weeks ago, I can say that in my experience:

1 - Yes, the wastegate leaver is very loose and can be flipped back and forth easily.

2 - The rod is quite stiff in it's movement. I found that I could pull the rod from the actuator towards the wastegate leaver, using some long nose pliers, gripped at the actuator end of the rod. Eventually it was possible to mate the two together.

3 - Luckily my split pin hole was clear, I ended up fixing mine with a circular key ring! However, if yours is blocked.... it's a sod to get to.... not sure what to suggest really
 

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I have a similar problem (along with a bunch of other un related problems ), i.e. the hole through the wastegate arm is blocked and it is in a real bad position for access to clear it out. I was thinking I'd get one of those push-on retaining washers (something like RS code 172-357, although I'm usnsure this is the correct size).

Kev
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeehaa! Turbo's back!


Thanks Jules, got back under the car and pulled that rod until it fitted. Now it's just case of waiting to see how long it stays on without a pin to hold it in place.


Took the car out for some turbo related fun. What a blast. Mmmmm, Torquey!

The car feels so much more taut. I guess it's the extra torque pulling the steering into line. I even believe that it's better than it was before I lost the turbo.

Jules, have 5 stars with my thanks.
 

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THE ACTUATOR ROD ON MY CAR IS HELD ON TO THE WASTEGATE ARM WITH A PIECE OF STIFF COPPER WIRE WOUND ROUND IT (A STRAND FROM A MAINS CABLE - CAR STUFF STRANDS ARE TOO THIN). IT WAS RATHER FIDDLY TO DO THE BODGE, BUT IT WORKS OK-IT'S BEEN ON THERE 18 MONTHS NOW, AND NO PROBLEMS.
 

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Please don't SHOUT
! Messages in all uppercase are difficult to read and in netiquette terms implies that you are shouting at us - which I'm sure you don't mean !

If the wrapped wire works then great, but I think I'd get the hole cleared and put a proper split / 'R' pin in rather than wait for the knot of wire to fall off .
 

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Yes I did this fix as well- Used some stainless steel wire to hold the actuator rod on. No problems at all but recently (after cyl.head gasket was done) I'm getting the opposite problem - overboost and the protection system kills the engine violently (really horrible sensation) wonder if the wire somehow can foul the rod's action.
 
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