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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can this forum give me some wisdom as i'm getting a bit frustrated now! I have a saab9000 se 2.3hpt and the engine check light is coming on and giving me a misfire,well thats what it feels like. When it comes on it dosnt like to idle&just generally feels fluffy. Any common things? I know the di packs are a common thing to go but the mangagement light will go out and it gets better/clears and goes out if you give it a bit of welly.thought if it was the di pack it would be constant. It only seems to happen if it gets hotter or run for a long time. this is what makes me think elswhere.any way to check things without the dredded diag tool? Ive tried to use my works unipart/bosch kts500 diagnostic tester but as bloody usual the sodding thing wont communicate. I tell you,that machine only likes vauxhalls!
 

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Sounds familier,check the induction tract all the way from the throttle body,through the turbo to the air cleaner.I had much the same problems after I had rebuilt my engine.when I checked I found I had not tightened a couple of hose clips.then the two small copper tubes fell out of the throttle body,replaced them with plenty of gasket goo and all sweetness and light.
mike
 

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Check for any leaks in the intake system, and vacuum lines. Clean the AMM with carb cleaner (remove the mesh filters first).

Does the check engine light flash a few seconds after you turn the ignition on (without starting the engine)?

DI/APC flash codes:

2 flashes - ROM check (check sum check)
3 flashes - Watchdog (control module fault). This fault can also be caused by a defective spark plug or defective ignition discharge module.
4 flashes - Knock sensor (no signal or signal incorrect)
5 flashes - Engine load signal from LH or pressure from the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor incorrect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
No i tried that method for the flashes, i read how to do this in another section on this site but i think my model doesnt have this facilty. When I did the h/gasket i only disconnected the rubber hose from the inlet manifold which left the rest undisturbed. checked from the top in the engine bay and couldnt see anything suspect. guess il have a look underneath tonight when i change my fuel filter and air filter and g/box filters. As i did all the work from the top ( did without a ramp ) I thought there wouldnt be anything else wrong. Can the temp sender play around ( one next 2 the stat housing? I can use the old one from the cyl old head ive got. Also when you say amm unit is this the air flow meter after the air filter? ( Air metering summit )? Cheers for the input so far anyway! I love these sites, I get the same help from my honda motorbike website- cant beat em!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had a tinker under the bonnet today after work and took ur advice.thought id change my air filter today&at the same time check the amm unit. Filter was spotless so back in it went but the amm unit on one side was quite dirty so I got some brakle cleaner on it and cleaned it and the meshes.Whilst under there I removed the throttle pos. sensor&found slight corrosion on 1 of the terminals and also replaced the temp sender from my other cyl head.Went to southamton to pick my girlfriend up and the car didnt cough once so fingers crossed sorted!All i need to do now is get my bloody diag tester at work to communicate with it to erase the memory cos I dont wana disconnect the battery and re learn all the smeggin parameters! Oh yeah btw used the diag tester again today, 94 rover 820, plugged in, read the memory and came up with no faults-wrong! stoopid machine thought the car was a 1.6l not the 2l which it was.This is what I have to deal with every time i use the crappy thing... Damn book tells me the diag scoket is inside the car when its under the bonnet, basically it got the years mixed up, pre 95/96 were in eng bay & post were inside cabin.I mean if they do this sort of thing what chance do I have workin it! aaaah!
 
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