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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any body tried these ?
My friendly elkparts man is sending me a set of these
Any ideas on settings ?

I have 3.5 degrees of setting to play with

I was thinking +1 to reduce u/steer
 

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No, not tried but I have seen them

I often wondered how easy they are to fit with the step/cam in them. how do you get them through the bolt holes?

Do you fit them to the top or bottom bolt hole?

Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
top hole according to the diagrammes I have seen

I imagine there will be a fair amount of "wiggling" to get them in..I thought they were worth a try for shaving these extra few seconds off the lap time
 

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I've not used such a thing, but I have adjusted the camber on the front of a 9000 by means of 'moving' the holes in the strut. I had a 9000 which came with factory parts which gave more negative camber than top tolerance. This was fine with the original squidgy balloon Michelins, but when I put 7&1/2" rims with Yokohama S1Z (Y-rated rock hard sidewalls) on it, the inside of the tread rested on the ground, but the outside hardly did unless under load. This made the car twitchy/tramliney and had poor about-centre steering response. I reduced the camber to about 0.25deg negative, this may have lost a fraction of absolute cornering g-force (not that I'd find out) but it improved the steering feel and twitchiness.

I don't like the idea of reducing the diameter of the critical mounting bolt to allow for movement.
Perhaps the thing to do would be to play with the settings with the magic bolt to find how you like it, then take the strut off, weld-up and redrill the holes to give the fixed non-floating, non-weakened final version?
 

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SJ, have you got any pics of how you did this ?

Also on this subject about camber, one question comes to mind, if you change the camber the angle of force on the bearing and hub will increase, will the bearings and the hubs stand up to that if pushed hard, say on a track day lap after lap ? I suppose that it would show up a doggy bearing sooner rather than later.
 

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Also on this subject about camber, one question comes to mind, if you change the camber the angle of force on the bearing and hub will increase  [/b]
But all the people who have lowered suspension will have altered the camber anyway, So by using some way of adjusting the camber you will be able to set the camber to a good setting avoiding tyre wear/pressure on the bearing and improve handling.

You would also be suprised how much tollerance camber settings have think of it this way, If you get 4 20 stone people in a car the camber geometry will alter dramaticatly but on a standard setting will still be in tollerance, now the car is designed to be able to take this weight and drive fine even though the camber will be very negative compared to an unladen car.

If you can set the camber slightly negative from factory settings this will improve handling with no adverse effects unless you put too much weight in the car and I would have thought the max laden weight of a Saab would be more than most people would ever dream of loading into there car.

I have set my camber negative and have 8 1/2" wide rims with a very wide ofset and I've had no problems with wheel bearings
 

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Saabman, point taken, but I have had cars that have been modified to this degree and some 'VERY' bad experiences, mind you they were not SAAB's
 

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but I have had cars that have been modified to this degree and some 'VERY' bad experiences  [/b]
This all depends on what you mean by "this degree" if you have had cars with uprated/stronger springs/shocks Polly bushes stiffer anti roll bars etc (and ylee has) plus a proper set up on the suspension geometry then I can't imagine what your very bad experiences were

I could understand a standard or near to standard suspension system when modified causing problems but with a uprated stronger system the chances of the car bottoming out say over a large bump and causing too negative camber and loss of stability is slim (if not anorexic)


The whole point of upgraded suspension parts is to make the car handle better, and I can't see how with a good set up it could be worse
 

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Originally posted by Joe's Garage:
[qb]SJ, have you got any pics of how you did this ?

[/qb][/b]
Sorry, no pics.

I just opened the hole out with a file in the direction I wanted to go, then put runs of weld on the opposite edge to build it up. I tacked a plate behind the hole to allow a centre punch to locate the drill, and then I redrilled the hole to ensure roundness.

With hindsight, I don't think the hole needed welding as most of the grip is frictional due to the clamping force, and some strut holes are slack anyway.

If you calculate the amount of movement you need to get an angle change (as the holes are close together) it is quite small.
 
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