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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a '93 9000CSE turbo 2.3, 5 speed. Looking for some ideas as what can be done to increase performance. Looking to do some body parts also (hood, fenders, bumper skins). I live in the US and Saab parts are few and far to find, especially salvage yards for used pieces.

Please forgive my ignorance in that I know nothing about this line of motor cars. The price was right, and after the test drive...
well, I fell in love. This is also my first turbo vehicle also.

The only problem I am having is the TCS CNTRL light keeps coming on and I loose throttle after the turbo spools up. But will take this issue up in the Saab 9000 forum.
 

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Congratulations on your new vehicle Walt: Body parts are probably easier to find in the 'states than in the UK. I would wager that there were many more 9000's sold in the US. However, there are areas of the country where they could be considered rare, but in New England there are plenty of salvage yards that carry parts. The Aero bumpers and body moldings are an easy swap and would be difficult, if not impossible, to improve upon, aesthetically speaking. Occassionally, I've seen these parts on eBay. A good place to start with performance is a 3" downpipe. You will notice a definite improvement from the loud-pedal (not in noise but in
) and your engine will thank you for improving its' overall operating condition with lower exhaust gas temperatures (EGT's). It should also be considered as a prerequisite for any software changes - even the stock software can generate quite high EGT's. Some would argue that the 1st performance improvement should be good performance tires and brakes - hard to argue against that! I've found the stock brake calipers and rotors to be more than sufficient for any condition one is liable to experience on the road. Unless one is doing serious track or autocrossing, the stock brakes are fine. There are good aftermarket alternatives - I've had good luck with Brembo rotors. Pad material is another matter - my personal preference is Ferodos: they work great cold or hot, don't seem to produce as much dust as the stock pads, and will decelerate a heavy vehicle, like the 9000, from high speeds with no problem. Great brakes are worthless if the tires don't grab - my preference is for high performance tires that use the Uni-T compound: Bridgestone, Firestone, and Fuzion. However, there are plenty of other very good performance tires....good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks!
I was considering the 3" down pipe as my first buy along with cat back system. Next purchase is going to be tires Fuzion P205/40/18 on Motegi FF7's or black RT5's. Then Black Diamond brakes.

Looking at a new I/C, dump valve, air intake and filter. I would like to change out the turbo also. Somebody told me that the one in my car is only pushing 3 pounds boost. Is that true?
 

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Originally posted by Walt:
[qb]Somebody told me that the one in my car is only pushing 3 pounds boost.[/qb][/b]
Not if it's working properly. You should be getting around 12-13psi boost, assuming it's not a light-pressure turbo (I think most CSEs in the US only came with the full-pressure turbo?)

Even a light-pressure turbo should be boosting to around 6psi.

If you have a boost gauge, it's a full-pressure model. How high does the needle reach on the gauge?

The turbo fitted to the car is good for about 250-260hp maximum, so you have plenty of scope for tuning before you fit a larger turbo with all the disadvantages (e.g. increased turbo lag) that go with it.
 

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A cheap and easy intake modification is to remove the snorkel and drill a few more holes in the filter cannister. This resolves most of the intake restriction on a 9000. And, rather than changing the filter to a less restrictive one, I would keep the stock filter as it does a much better job of filtering small particles than the less restrictive 'performance' ones. The stock intercooler does have flow issues at high boost pressures, and the plastic end tanks will eventually fail when boost pressures go above ~20 psi for any length of time, but the bang for the buck is not as great as, say, software mod's. A dump valve will do nothing for seat of the pants performance - the Bosch 110 should be more than sufficient for a tuned T25.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Originally posted by BillJ:

[qb]If you have a boost gauge, it's a full-pressure model. How high does the needle reach on the gauge?

[/qb][/b]
The only gauge I have is in gauge cluster and it does not have any numbers. I'm thinking that should be put on my priority list also. What I am finding out about my 9000 CSE is that it will pull like crazy on a steady throttle.


But it if I go WOT it lags, really bad. Turbo spools fast, but has no real go. But I have to watch WOT because it trips the TRC CNTRL and I go into limp home mode.

I just want to add a kick in the pants to the car.

Can you just imagine the faces of these ricers after getting stomped by some 45 yr. old in a SAAB???

Any recommedations on some good guages? I see everybody talking about the Stage 1, Stage 2, ect... what does each stage mean or consist of?

Would an 3" aluiminized down pipe work, or would it get to hot? I know stanless steel would be better, but my local shop said the would make me a 3" down pipe out of aluiminized steel for $200.
 

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I prefer aluminised steel to stainless because the downpipe sees the extremes of heat-cycling. I've seen more than one stainless downpipe develop cracks because of this. Besides, there's very little of the downpipe that gets exposure to the elements that the downstream exhaust system 'sees'. As far as I'm concerned, the JT 3" downpipe is tremendous value for the money, but if you can have someone make one for less, I wouldn't hesitate.
 
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